AR's, Like Lego's but for grownups.

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hatchetbearer

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Nov 9, 2007
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SE Ohio,Yuma, Arizona
Came back from leave and got crackin on my first AR build. Total Build time about 2 hours. Didnt even lose any of the detents without the little tool. Rifle was cleared twice prior to pictures being taken.

Parts:
CMMG 16" 1/7 midlength upper and BCG
R Guns Lower
Stainless Steel parts kit
Magpul CTR stock
Magpul ASAP plate and MS2 sling
Troy 2 piece rail
Command Arms Foregrip (KAC knockoff)
Command Arms Rail covers

Not Pictured:
Bravo Co Carry handle
Badger Tactical charging handle latch

BF4QKl.jpg

Total Build cost $850. I dont think I did too bad considering it was a box of parts a couple hours ago.
Thoughts?
 
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I like it, slick and simple!

You useing it for range fun or varmint shooting + HD?

Hows the badger diffirent from a gunfighter charger latch? I need to upgrade mine here soon as the reg latch I still have is bound to fail again soon.
 
The badger latch was cheap. it's just the actual latch part that you install into your current charging handle. pop out that little roll pin and replace with the new. It's probably not anywhere near as stout as a gunfighter, but for adding lead to my hillside. It does it's job.


even without a rear sight i still managed to get minute of soda bottle at 30 yds.

any experts care to add their input on polishing up the internals to improve trigger pull? I know you dont do it with regular triggers and hammers, but what about ones from a solid piece of stainless? I'm all about the quest for a Po' boy target shooter. I intend to secure another one in A2 configuration for off duty practice.
 
Polishing vital contact surfaces is... dangerous, unless you know exactly what you're doing. Surface heat treat (hardening) must never be worn through, and critical areas should be left alone. A story comes to mind of an acquaintance who filled his 1911 with polishing paste, worked it a few hundred times, and though had an end product that was slick as glass, also had a gun whose sear would not engage due to every surface worn smooth and rounded. :uhoh:

As far as precision target shooting goes, there are a few bits that could be upgraded to improve its capability (the two-piece rail and sling attachment), but from an overall standpoint, it seems like it's a solid rifle. :)
 
I know you dont do it with regular triggers and hammers, but what about ones from a solid piece of stainless?

It isn't recommended on regular parts because the hardening of the fire control group parts is very thin. Once you "polish" through it, the fire control group will wear very fast and become unsafe when it does wear. Unless the stainless steel's surface hardening is somehow thicker or tougher than the normal parts, I don't see where the parts being made out of stainless is going to have much difference on this.
 
poor man's better trigger you say?

http://www.sargenthome.com/15_Minute_AR_Trigger_Job.htm <<lighten springs

http://www.junkyardgenius.com/firearms/ar-15/ar08.html << reduce takeup

when I did the second one I took too much off the trigger bar and the safety didn't work any more. so I just built it back up with JBweld and tried again. Worked great. I didn't polish anything. I now have a 3-4lb trigger with almost no takeup, very little creep, does not slip when I bang the gun around, and reliably ignites everything I've run through it.

worst case scenario: you screw up every part you touch. $5 in springs and a $10 trigger bar. well, a little more since you have stainless. small risk, huge reward. total cost: 50 cents. another 50 cents if you want to slip an O-ring around the front pivot lug to take out any slop you might have between the receiver halves.
 
AR's, Like Lego's but for grownups.

AR's: Barbie dolls for grown men. 10/22's as well.

Yours looks play-date worthy...slumber-party in the gun safe?
 
Yours looks play-date worthy...slumber-party in the gun safe?

She's a hungry girl, and that makes for an expensive date.

I re read that on target shooting, i meant for that on my A2 project I should get a start on by the end of the month.

I dont expect to get match grade accuracy out of a non free floated 16" barrel. especially when I'm shooting $6/box 50 gr PMC ammo in a 1/7 twist. Still waiting on my rear sight to come in, so i can get her zeroed.

the reason I asked on the polish job for the trigger is that my trigger and hammer have something similar to a bead blast treatment done to them, I didnt think it would mess to much up getting them smooth. But the pull isn't bad, so I'll leave well enough alone.
 
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