Artillery Luger LP.08

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Dudemeister

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This past weekend at the local gun show I bought an artillery Luger LP.08. I should be able to pick it up next week, but in the mean time, I took a couple of pictures so I can do some research on it.

The price I got the gun for was, in my opinion, a steal ($650). So you may wonder what kind of piece of crap could than be for that price.

The problem is that the previous owner(s) had the frame gold plated, and the barrel and receiver at blued. The gold plate is pretty well worn through on the grip area.

It's a DWM model made in 1917, and all the serial numbers match on (at least) all the visible parts. The magazine is some after market brand with aluminum base. The picture below was taken with my phone in a hurry, so until I actually get the gun and take better pics, this is all I have.

Luger%201.jpg

The plan to shoot the gun, not turn it into a safe queen, but the lingering questions is whether or not I should have the gun refinished. If I do, should I go for the classic look, or should I refinish it in gold.

There is a local shop that specializes in Lugers, and for about 600-700 I can get it completely restored, and get a wooden stock and holster.

What do you Luger fans think?
 
I think if you finish it in gold I will throw up all over my computer. Gun blue and straw trigger
 
I still don't like gold plated guns.
I'd get the entire gun re-blued.
 
Any collector's value is already lost. You can do anything you want to it, now,. and not feel bad.

If it's in good shape, you could possibly have it restored by a craftsman who specializes in that process -- and recoup some of the lost value. (Probably not enough value recouped to offset the cost of the work, however.)

If it's to be a shooter, have it reblued. Or have someone like Arizona Response System or Robar put a space-age finish on it. It may cost a little to have the gold removed.

And, look around for a stock (and holster). That model can use one -- look at the slots on the grip.

I've had a couple of shooter Lugers and one collectible -- but none, now. I never shot the collectible, but the shooters were surprisingly accurate despite badly pitted barrels. They were reliable, too, once I found good magazines (Mec-Gars worked for me.) Mags seemed to be the biggest impediment to reliability.

You got a deal at any price below $1000.
 
I'd get it refinished as close to original as possible.

I do not know the law on REPRODUCTION pistol stocks, originals are ok but I have soume doubts about repros. Check it out.
 
Refinish it, definitely.

This gun would be perfect for Doug Turnbull. He doesn't currently do Lugers, but I might contact him, and see if he would be willing to start. (Or, he might know someone). If anyone can get that original straw finish, it will be him.

There's this guy; seems like good work, but I don't know him.
 
I like it and it was a steal.If you want to shoot it use some American or Fiocchi FMJ standard velocity.You can buy a nice new Meggar magazine which really helps! I use a high quality modern gun grease on the moving parts of my shooter lugers. Good luck.
 
Great on the price, hint any luger for that amount will be a great price,after you get her cleaned up, shoot her,both my Arty and 4" models, will fuction with any load,military or hollow point, except some of the 115 grn military surplus (S.African) good luck
robert
 
For what you paid, plus what refinishing it would cost, you could have bought an original that wasn't pimped out. Having said that, I'd keep it as it for a while yet, shoot it and keep your eyes open for a non-bastardized arty luger. Then you can sell this one, maybe even for a slight profit, and get the collectable one.

As said, any collectors value to this one has been washed away in gold plate. And the gold and aluminum really clash. you should get that mag base plate gold anodized to match. :)

I have to wonder though, if the former owner did that to the gun, what else has he done to it, internally?
 
For what you paid, plus what refinishing it would cost, you could have bought an original that wasn't pimped out.

Far easier said than done. I haven't seen ANY lugers for less than $1000 in the past few years -- except some crappy Russian Captures with mismatched parts. (I bought one of those when they first hit the US, about 8-9 years ago, and it was a great shooter.) And none of those guns are Artillery models, which are even more rare.

It probably won't cost a lot more than $200 to have it reblued. And, if the gun is in good shape -- it looks like it is -- it'll be an exceptionally nice gun that is no longer a "collectible" -- but a great gun that will hold its value. (Matching numbers are nice, as these guns were semi-hand fit in the factory ['cause that's how they made them, back then], and matching numbers sort of assures better function.)

I'd happily give him what he paid for it, plus shipping, if he wants to sell -- or trade him something of comparable value.
 
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Any collector's value is already lost. You can do anything you want to it, now,. and not feel bad.

Heck, you could have the world's only Duracoated Luger.

I think you should shoot it and sell it later when you get bored with it. You won't get less than $650 for it. Probably doesn't make financial sense to refurb it.
 
There is a local shop that specializes in Lugers, and for about 600-700 I can get it completely restored, and get a wooden stock and holster.
Yes, This.

Blue & straw as earlier noted.

A few good magazines. Maybe a snail drum for grins and snickers (muahaha, try finding one at any rate) and a gold plated pickelhaube (I crack myself up)

Then go shoot it and smile.
 
Well, for now I'm waiting on the gun, but the plan is to shoot it for a while, then if I get tired of shooting it, to restore it and save it.

"Maybe a snail drum for grins and snickers.."

Somehow I don't think that's legal in California. ALL magazines must be 10 rnds or less.

Speaking of my lovely state, I was planning on getting a C&R license, for occasions such as this, so I can actually get reasonable deals on old firearms without having to pay for FFL transfers and wait for weeks on end, but lo' and behold, California has different rules.

With a C&R license here, you can only transfer long arms. Handguns must go through an FFL and are subject to the regular 10 day waiting period just like any other gun, new, old or used. Not just that, but you can only buy one gun during a 30 day period. So much for being able to build a collection.

As you can imagine, that took the wind out of my sails in a hurry. I'm not big on long arms (I only have a couple of rifles), but I was hoping to start collecting a few C&R pistols, I had my eye on an old Russian Nagant Revolver, A Tokarev and a Walther P38. J&G Sales has some good prices on those, but without a C&R license, the price goes up.

Anyway, I guess I'll just wait for now for my lovely gold plated Luger. I guess I'll be "The Man with the Golden Gun"
 
Ah yes, California. I failed to notice. Sad that. Oh well. Beautiful country, interesting politicians.

Still and all, a nice find at a great price. Gold plating not-with-standing.

http://www.simpsonltd.com/index.php?cPath=238

Amazing prices at Simpsons compared to your 6 bills... eh?
Just went through their catalog, and the cheapest Arty is $2K. So yeah, I know I got a great deal, and besides, the gold doesn't bother me (yet).

Can't wait to get it home, and do a detailed teardown.
 
It's home... finally!!

Well, it's finally here. Today I brought the golden beast home, and had a chance to examine it in more detail.

The frame, toggle links, and front sight are gold plate throughout. The barrel, receiver, and most of the small parts are blued. There is a lot of wear on the gold on the grip, and some light waer on the blued parts around the raised edges, and front of the barrel.

The frame, barrel and receiver have the complete serial number, 7852, with an "alpha" letter below them. All the other parts have the last two digits "52" with the following exceptions: The side plate is stamped only with a "2" instead of "52", and the rear sight is stamped with "11", so it could be a replacement.

Also, the number "23" stamped inside the frame, and on the lever that holds the action open after the last shot. The front of the frame has the correct serial number (7852). What's the deal with that?

Last but not least, the magazine doesn't match this gun. It's an aluminum bottom mag stamped with serial number 4081.

The magazine fits very tight in the gun, and it also has problems holding on to the bullets when you try to insert it. 4 of them sprung out when I was inserting the magazine.

I plan or buying a couple of Me-Gar mags for range use. Speaking of which, does anyone have a couple of them for sale?

Anyway, as I mentioned before, I plan on shooting this and eventually restoring the finish to something close to the original finish (rust blue and strawed parts).
 

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Here are a few more pics
 

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Dude... that is one pimpalicious SF gold rushin Luger you got. ;)

Serial/Frame number, the 4 digit w/ alpha below barrel, as you know. The Germans did so love to stamp numbers on things didn't they? As issued all numbers matched. Things happen. Parts is parts... right? (except when they're bits and pieces of Teutonic guns).

You good to go on breakdown and fieldstrip? There's a trick or two involved. Like a Chinese puzzle of sorts, eh?

Certain cheap American made 115 gr. 9mm one can find a certain box stores on the cheap, might lack enough oompf to cycle action 100%. So read up a bit on the original rounds Lugers prefer or were designed for (I know, original design was the smaller round).

When you do drop the dime on refinish, please be sure to post up before and afters.

Oh yeah, do you own or have you ever owned a long purple coat with fur collar and a wide brim fedora? :D
 
Reblue and straw appropriate parts. Then go back and horse whip the guy who had it gold plated!
 
There was a shop in my home town that did work like that. I particularly recall the revolver with the hammer, trigger, and cylinder FLUTES ONLY gold plated amid a polished blue finish on the rest of the gun.

Back when a Luger might cost $100 tops, this would have seemed a reasonable thing to do, if you dealt with that place.
 
I did take the gun to a local gun shop, Krausewerk, that specializes in militaria collectibles, and Lugers especially. In fact they are one of the shops that make a .45ACP Luger replica and a Baby Luger.

I did get a chance to see a Baby Luger there, in an unfinished state, when I asked the cost, the guys said 12-5. I thought he meant $1250, but it was $12,500. I understand it's a custom made gun, but still...

Anyway, I bought a magazine there. This thing is made from blued steel, and has a black plastic or Bakelite base. It's stamped "Made in Holland". It cost me $75, which I think was quite a bit, but the shop owner insisted that these are superior to the Me-Gars. Maybe, but I still placed an order for one from Midway.

While I was there, they also stripped the gun and inspected it to make sure it's safe to shoot, and it was declared worthy.

Before I left I also bought a "replica" takedown/loading tool for $20.

So I'm ready. If the weather cooperates, I plan on taking it to the range and punching a lot of holes in targets.
 
Update...

So I just got back from the range, where i put 150 rounds through the Luger.

The gun shoots very smoothly, the recoil is a lot less than my (only) other 9mm, the Walther P99. Whereas the Walther has a sharp "snapping" recoil, the Luger recoil is more like a revolver's, but without much muzzle rise.

The first thing I noticed is that the point of impact at 15 yards was about 6" to the left and 3" down. At 25 yards, the POI had moved even further left and down. I was able to compensate for the elevation by simply moving the rear sight cursor to the 200m line, but the windage, required adjustment of the fine adjustment screw and I didn't have the right tool (I did fix it at home). But for this session I simply employed some Kentucky Windage.

15yard_target.jpg

At the moment, I'm doing pretty well with it at 15 yards, but 25 yards will require some practice
 
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