Attaching a single point sling to an AR

[Phaedrus/69]

I am a fan of single point slings in general. They're not idea for hunting or slogging long distances but I only use my long guns at the range, plus they're on standby for HD use. I like the single point sling for indoor use as it lets me drop the rifle to transition to a pistol, open a door, etc while keeping the carbine retained and at hand. My Storm and HK USC are set up this way.

But what's the best way to attach a single point sling to an AR? I bought the kit that replaces the plate at the end of the receiver but I'm kind of reluctant to tear it down (remove the buffer, loosen the castle nut and retighten it w/o a torque wrench, etc).

Has anyone used something like a Magpul RSA? Could I just use an RSA towards the very rear of the rail and clip the sling onto that? The AR charging handle doesn't reciprocate so it wouldn't hang up on the sling. Ejection is on the other side, so issue there.

Is there a good reason not to do this that I'm just missing?

 

[Lafitte]

Replacing the end plate is reallly not a big deal. Just tighten the castle nut to a reasonable tightness and it should be good to go. It is not a torque critical part.

Lafitte

 

[rondog]

I replaced that end plate, and had to take my rifle to my gunsmith to fix it - because I'm a dumbass. Something about a "retaining pin" that keeps the spring and plunger in the buttstock.....

I'm generally a decent mechanic, tinkerer and home gunsmith, but for some reason my AR15 mystifies me. I'm scared to death to take it apart very far, even though I know they're supposed to be pretty simple.

 

[Robert]

The hardest part is not letting the detent spring fly away. Which is not very hard at all.

 

[Baldman]

I used the attachment in the link below. I think I paid half of what they are listing for thru Amazon. There are other options / devices as well that don't require the castle nut to be removed as well.

http://www.tacticallink.com/Z-360-Sling-Mount-GEN-2.html

 

[Destructo6]

In addition to the one mentioned above, GG&G makes "agency sling adapters" that don't require removal of the buffer tube or castle nut. They make a few versions, with loops, QD, etc. I've used one and it was secure, but didn't allow the stock to collapse to the shortest once installed, iirc. I didn't use it for long as I came to dislike single point slings.

 

[Acera]

You don't need any special tools or skills to put this one on.

http://www.brownells.com/shooting-a...p-sling-adapter-sku100002123-21245-46509.aspx


They make others, search for 'slip on single point sling attachment'.





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[CapnMac]

The clamp on the buffer tube adapters work just fine (and save you needing to go get a castle nut wrench).

Which one to get is largely down to which single-point sling you intend to use. If your sling uses an "HK hook" get a clamp with loops. If your sling threads through a sling swivel, get one with the swivel mounts.

One of the last things you will want is one of the mounts with a separate metal link clanking in a loop--there's just no cure for that.

While those mounts do "lose" you the last stock detent, but few folks need a 12.5" LOP unless you regularly wear a raid vest over winter coats.

 

[ultratec1]

Do you have a standard collapsible stock? If you have an after market you may have a QD hole on it, then all you need is a QD sling and it is a simple push in pull out. No worries about replacing the buffer tube plate.

 

[J_McLeod]

I have an RSA but I use it for my 2 point sling. I wouldn't attach a single point anywhere forward of the stock.

 

[Coal Dragger]

Replacing the end plate is reallly not a big deal. Just tighten the castle nut to a reasonable tightness and it should be good to go. It is not a torque critical part.

Lafitte

This is a common misconception.

The M4 castle nut should be torqued to at least 40ft-lbs, and then staked in place. Failure to do so will eventually allow the castle nut to back off and result in a loose stock extension. I've witnessed this a few times with poorly built carbines, and while it is an easy fix with the right tools, it can put a damper on your range outing or worse.

Torquing the castle nut to spec and staking it in place isn't difficult and good builders do it for a reason, and Uncle Sam demands it for a reason on their M4's. There's literally no reason not to install these parts properly.

You just need your new end plate with a QD cup, or other sling mounting solution, a castle nut (the old one should be fine), your reciever extension, a bench vise, a lower reciever block, an armorer's tool, a torque wrench, a hammer or mallet, and a punch small enough to fit in the recesses of the end plate for staking. If you're doing your own end plate install you already have most of this already.

This can also be a great opportunity to upgrade your reciever extension to a mil-spec or better part made from 7075-T6 aluminum with dry film lube on the inside if your carbine isn't so equipped.

 

[Coal Dragger]

Also to the OP, have you considered a good two point sling like the Vickers Combat Application Sling?

I've used a single point sling, and the Vickers sling and to be honest the Vickers does everything I want a single point sling to do, plus it can actually be used as a sling for carrying the rifle, and as a shooting aid.

I don't even know where my single point sling is anymore.

 

[Phaedrus/69]

For the time being I got a UTG rail mounted QD mount. It's supposed to take a QD sling but the hook of my single point sling fits in it. I'm not sure this is the idea setup and I'll probably go with something a bit more "elegant" but I was curious if it would work. The mount is attached to the top rail at the rearmost section. It's not really in the way of the charging handle but it crowds the rear of my Aimpoint PRO a bit.

Ultimately I might go with a conventional sling but for my intended purpose the single point is good. Mostly I just want to be able to let go of the rifle if I need to open a door, use a light switch, access my sidearm, etc. I'm not concerned about being tacticool, just want to be able to free up my hands if necessary. My AR isn't really for hunting nor do I plan to hike with it.

 

[MrCleanOK]

For the time being I got a UTG rail mounted QD mount. It's supposed to take a QD sling but the hook of my single point sling fits in it. I'm not sure this is the idea setup and I'll probably go with something a bit more "elegant" but I was curious if it would work. The mount is attached to the top rail at the rearmost section. It's not really in the way of the charging handle but it crowds the rear of my Aimpoint PRO a bit.



Ultimately I might go with a conventional sling but for my intended purpose the single point is good. Mostly I just want to be able to let go of the rifle if I need to open a door, use a light switch, access my sidearm, etc. I'm not concerned about being tacticool, just want to be able to free up my hands if necessary. My AR isn't really for hunting nor do I plan to hike with it.

If you need to hang the rifle from the sling to use both hands, a single point is the worst kind of sling to use. The rifle will swing and dangle and smack you in the knees or private parts if you need to do anything on the move. A quality two point sling will hang the rifle securely and predictably.

About the only place for a single point sling is weapon retention if your job requires you to be in and out of vehicles a lot, and a two point sling handles that job well too (just loop the sling over your neck without sticking an arm through).


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[Phaedrus/69]

That has not been my experience with single point slings at all. Maybe yours wasn't properly adjusted? I've had my other carbines set up this way for years and found it to work quite well for me (in the role that I use them for, natch).

 

[Hookeye]

Single point sling endplate on mine.
Run a two point sling though.
Most times no sling.
Castle nut not staked. Good parts/wrench......no probs (last few builds).
If it comes loose down the road, re torque and stake.
Even if loose the rifle will function.
If you're bashing people over the head with it, probably wipe it out anyway.
Did do the 4-40 set screw to retain detent and spring....didn't really need it.
Not gonna change the stock. For guys that experiment with stuff, might be an OK deal......if they have shag carpets and no spare little parts LOL.

 

[Steve in PA]

I'm a LE firearms instructor and have my two AR's set up differently; one has a two-point sling, the other a single-point sling. I use both in my demonstrations when teaching or instructing patrol rifle course.

Personally, I prefer the two-point sling. The rifle is easier to control, both hands can be used without the rifle swinging around and hitting you in the junk.

The single-point has it's place, primarily with the high speed-low drag group. There are more disadvantages than advantages where the single-point sling is concerned.

However, the shooter needs to decide which one suits his individual style and whether or not any advantage/disadvantage is important to him.

 

[ClickClickD'oh]

The mount is attached to the top rail at the rearmost section. It's not really in the way of the charging handle but it crowds the rear of my Aimpoint PRO a bit.

You've put the sling mount on the top of the upper receiver where a BUIS would normally go?

Suboptimal is the nice word for that.

Those kinds of mounts are meant for the forearm. I would advise against attaching a sling in that location.

 

[Phaedrus/69]

You've put the sling mount on the top of the upper receiver where a BUIS would normally go?

Suboptimal is the nice word for that.

Those kinds of mounts are meant for the forearm. I would advise against attaching a sling in that location.

Why?

 

[Acera]

My Academy Sports and Outdoors store has two different no gunsmithing required versions and one replacement back plate.

Surprised to find they are carrying so much modern sporting rifle accessories these days.





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