Axes, mauls and hatchets - not as weapons

[GrizzlyGraves]

Could one of the blade gurus please describe an ideal edge (if one exists) one needs for the above mentioned tools for some wood splitting.

I've ben given a maul, prob 5 lbs. with a wedge, a relatively light weight axe which is almost as light as a hatchet that belonged to my wife's grandfather and I recently received a nifty craftsman hatchet for a wedding present with what I would call a "hammer head" opposing the cutting head.

The Maul is dull as can be, the axe is fairly sharp and good for splitting 3-5" rounds and the hatchet has really no edge on it.

Alternatively, if this is out of place, would someone direct me to a good edged tool forum?

Thanks

 

[James T Thomas]

first off

I'm going to "stick my neck out" here an give you an opinion.

Only an opinion, and not from an expert with any of those tools.

Axe: To fell trees you need deep penetration; to save effort, but must have a sturdy edge, none the less. A "Scandi" or sabre; tapered edge, not extremely narrow.

Hatchet: For combination work of limbing, splitting small -kindling, and wood working. Requires a more sturdy edge and one that can be efficiently restored, perhaps in the field. A convex; magnifying lens shape to the edge.

Mauls. You really got me here. I have one, but the only use I know for it is splitting. Like the wedge, and with the same, wide tapered edge too.

I hope I'm right on all this, but I mentioned, I'm not that knowledgeable, so let us see what others who are say.

 

[Hans Esker]

Mauls are splitting tools not cutting tools

Compared to the finesse of an axe (or machete for that matter), the maul is a brute force tool for splitting and wedging. Thus they do not need much of an edge. They are softer than axes so that they can take the extreme forces involved without chipping or other catastrophic failure. Any keen edge you put on it will quickly be rounded off by contact with ground, or just being used. Just take off any flat spots, a fat convex edge is O.K.

James has the others right.

Bladeforums has an Axe, Tomahawk, & Hatchet Forum
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=768

 

[GrizzlyGraves]

Thanks for the replies. I will check out that link.

 

[wheelgunslinger]

my maul is pretty dull, but I file the edge with a chainsaw file to keep it a little sharp.

My double bit axe gets one VERY sharp side at a steep angle, and one side that is just given a utility sharpness.

My single bit felling axe is shaving sharp.

My splitting wedge is sharp but at a steep angle because it gets pushed through the wood, and doesn't chop or cut, really.

Your light hammer head half-axe may be a neat piece. look for some text on the head or a funky shaped handle.

the difference for me is generally what the task of that blade is. If it actually cuts, it needs to be sharp. If it splits, it doesn't need to be sharp.

 

[Blofeld]

Aw jeez. I learned all there is to know about chopping wood over the summer (helping the in-laws prep for winter).

Did it mostly on weekends solely with an axe-sledge tool. Did it when they weren't around. Sore for days.

Anyway, they get home early one day, the father sees me struggling, and breaks out an oversized wedge, probably 4" across the top. I'd hit a log to put a dent in it, put the wedge in place, one ortwo whacks with the sledge, and the knottiest log crumbles.

If you can find this wedge, you can conquer a rainforest.

 

[Penman]

I heat with wood, use about 4 cord/winter. If you're going to split wood by hand, and you are dealing with large rounds, the "Monster Maul" is good. A pipe handle that will never splinter or crack, and a wide, triangular head that doesn't get stuck in a round. Not sure if they still make them, haven't needed to replace mine.

 

[hso]

http://www.gransfors.us/TheAxeBook.pdf

Mauls are like wedges. They have a steep angle to the edge and force the wood apart. The edge is just sharp enough to bite into the wood so the momentum of the head pushes the wood apart.

Axes come in various flavors and some are light and sharp and others are heavier with steeper bevels for withstanding blow after blow to chop down trees.

Hatchets have lighter heads and are intended for lighter work and easier carry.

 

[Coyote3855]

And don't use the back side of the axe to drive the splitting wedge, or anything else. Such use will eventually cause deformation of the eye of the axe - where the handle joins the head. I use a gransfors hatchet to split 2x4s or 2x6s for kindling. A have a heavy maul and wedge to split rounds into stove wood. I agree with comments above concerning the appropriate edge for each type of tool.

 

[James T Thomas]

inquiry

I have used the back : the butt or poll of my hatchets for driving tent stakes, but never metal. As with a ball pein hammer. I would not think light useage like striking wood stakes, etc. would cause deformation as you describe. You state "or anything else."

Am I correct in this. I've never experienced it, but on the other hand, I havn't used my hatchets all that much.

 

[scotjute]

Get a 12 lb. Monster Maul if you can find one. It is the best hand tool for splitting wood. It works considerably better than a standard maul and better than an Axe.
For hatchets, the most useful one I have is a roofing hatchet with a built in hammer head. It can be used for pounding or splitting or cutting.

 

[Rager]

I own a Monster Maul. The big box stores carry clones and Northern does as well.

You can use a good file to sharpen an ax or even the maul you have. I'd also recommend having two splitting wedges.

 

[HiWayMan]

I'd also recommend having two splitting wedges.

I'll second that. Nothing worse than getting one tied up deep in a round and not having a second wedge around to bust it out with.

 

[Coyote3855]

Yeah, I overstated my case again. Wooden tent stakes, the occasional nail won't do any damage. I should have just +1 on wheelgunslinger's post. Mauls, axes, and hatchets are different tools intended for different jobs. Most of the damage I've seen resulted from someone using an axe to drive a splitting wedge. It's almost always a good idea to have the right tool for the job.

 

[Webbj0219]

I like mauls for spliting fire wood. The heavy weight of them does most of the work for you. I just bring it up over my head, then let it do a guided drop onto the top of the log. Where as an axe not being as heavy would require you to swing it down hard to get the same penetration, using more effort in the long run.

On the other hand for chopping down trees swinging a maul sideways would get pretty tiring pretty quick. an axes lighter weight would make this easier.