Beginner Reloading

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ben293

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Hi everyone-
Been lurking on this and a few other sites for a number of months now, and have bought myself a loading setup. I decided to get into loading as its interested me for a long time, and I just had some back surgery so I am laid up for quite some time. Obviously, no shooting for a while.

I'm hoping in the next few weeks, with the wife's help, to get the press set up and start tinkering with it. So far, items I've bought:

Lee Classic Turret (Kempf kit, 38Special/357 magnum)
9MM dies
Universal decapper/extra turrets just in case.
Lyman Manual

Looking to get some bullets and brass in the next few weeks so I can start loading a few work up loads as I can. I have a small stockpile of 38 special cases I've saved, not so much in 9mm (ranges around here let you police your brass only). Will start ordering some brass and bullets once my benefits are verified and start coming in.

For initial loads, I was looking at lighter recoil to start when I am cleared to shoot again. I have a Colt Trooper Mark V 6" for the 38. I was thinking the basic Bullseye load for wadcutters in that should be fairly non punishing. Luckily, between my LGS and the Big R I think I can get most any powders- but to start, I'd like to try and stick to one or two. BE, HP38, and Sport Pistol all seem like they'd be a good place to start based on various load data I've read.

For 9MM, I have seen far and wide and used the calculators overall. If I am understanding correctly, something like a 100gr with a fast powder will have less overall recoil impulse, but may be snappier than a slow moving, heavier projectile. I figure I would start with some 147gr and 100gr or 115gr and see which works better for now. Generally, under normal circumstances, I tend to prefer factory 147 over 115 in terms of felt recoil, but am wondering if less overall would be better.

Was wondering if anyone has any experience in these arenas that would be beneficial.

Thank you,
 
MY 9mm handguns prefer 124 gr bullets. 100 gr are usually used in the 9x17, aka .380. Does your kit contain a scale?
 
ben293 said:
Hi everyone-
Been lurking on this and a few other sites for a number of months now, and have bought myself a loading setup. I decided to get into loading as its interested me for a long time, and I just had some back surgery so I am laid up for quite some time. Obviously, no shooting for a while.

I'm hoping in the next few weeks, with the wife's help, to get the press set up and start tinkering with it. So far, items I've bought:

Lee Classic Turret (Kempf kit, 38Special/357 magnum)
9MM dies
Universal decapper/extra turrets just in case.
Lyman Manual

Looking to get some bullets and brass in the next few weeks so I can start loading a few work up loads as I can. I have a small stockpile of 38 special cases I've saved, not so much in 9mm (ranges around here let you police your brass only). Will start ordering some brass and bullets once my benefits are verified and start coming in.

For initial loads, I was looking at lighter recoil to start when I am cleared to shoot again. I have a Colt Trooper Mark V 6" for the 38. I was thinking the basic Bullseye load for wadcutters in that should be fairly non punishing. Luckily, between my LGS and the Big R I think I can get most any powders- but to start, I'd like to try and stick to one or two. BE, HP38, and Sport Pistol all seem like they'd be a good place to start based on various load data I've read.

For 9MM, I have seen far and wide and used the calculators overall. If I am understanding correctly, something like a 100gr with a fast powder will have less overall recoil impulse, but may be snappier than a slow moving, heavier projectile. I figure I would start with some 147gr and 100gr or 115gr and see which works better for now. Generally, under normal circumstances, I tend to prefer factory 147 over 115 in terms of felt recoil, but am wondering if less overall would be better.

Was wondering if anyone has any experience in these arenas that would be beneficial.

Thank you,
Click to expand...
I am exclusively shooting 115gr FMJ in 9mm with 4.6gr of bullseye which is the max charge according to the hornady manual. in .38 special you might be ok with a ligher load. In a semi-auto 9mm you might have issues with the gun cycling with lighter loads so this is something you may want to check. I would suggest shooting multiple mags with each charge weight you choose to make sure the gun cycles properly with the load you choose. Biggest thing you will notice with a light load is that the cartridges dribble out vs go flying out of the gun which can lead to a FTE (Failure to Eject)... Personally in my testing I saw no noticeable difference between light loads and max charge loads in recoil and I am at the max load because it cycles my glock 17 and glock 45 beautifully. Bullseye can be a dirty powder but its widely available and works in many calibers.

Good luck and dont be afraid to ask for help here!
Dom
 
troy fairweather said:
Welcome to THR.
RMR has some really good bullets, plus the owner is on the forum. You can get 5% off to.
For brass i like rangebrass.us for once fried brass.
Click to expand...
Oh and I forgot per this comment which I just read. the 115gr FMJ I use are all rocky mountain reloading they are not only great they are the best price around and we have a 5% discount with them for highroad members!

Dom
 
I couldn't find where you told us which 9mm pistol you have. Unlike the 38 Spcl revolver (which all use the same loads), auto pistol loads are highly unique and very individual. Strictly from a physical construction point of view, some 9mm pistol / 147gr bullet combinations can get you into trouble really fast.

Therefore, until you have enough experience to know what works in your gun, I'd stay with very simple combinations of 124gr RN and low power loads which generate bullet velocities around 1020fps. To enable this soft load to operate your pistol, you'll need to fit your 9mm with reduced recoil spring weights. You can order these from Wolff Spring for under $20. If your stock recoil spring is around 18#, then a spring weight around 14# should allow these softer loads to operate the slide. Of course a simple "field strip" will allow you to swap the 2 springs back and forth as ammo demands.

► That's going to be a much, much better way for you to go to 1) assure physical chambering of your ammo, and 2) allow you the soft recoil your body needs. And as for recoil, it's going to beat any other bullet/powder combination you'll ever find in a manual.

Hope this helps.
 
Welcome to the Forum!
A few months ago, I expanded my reloading to include 38/357. While the 'textbook' 148 lead HBWC 2.7 Bullseye load was certainly not punishing to shoot,,, eh,,, it wasn't the cleanest thing either. I believe I'd much rather shoot plated, coated, or jacketed. (Working through my last 148 / 158 Lead bullets and really don't see myself getting any more)
On the other hand, some folks cast/coat their own. (Not a darn thing wrong with that either!!!!)
There's lots of different ways to do different things with this Hobby. I've really enjoyed it so far!!!
Be Safe, HAVE FUN!!!
 
ben293 said:
Lee Classic Turret (Kempf kit, 38Special/357 magnum)
Click to expand...
Was not familiar with that, so I had to look it up.

Comes with:

Lee Classic Turret Press
Lee Deluxe 4-Die Set for the pistol caliber of your choice. ( 44/40 and 357 Sig are 3 Die Sets)
Lee Auto Disk Powder Measure
Lee Safety Prime System (Large AND Small)
Lee Auto Disk Riser (Required for the Safety Prime System)
Six MTM 50 round Plastic Ammo Boxes

:thumbup:

There are a LOT of folks here with a LOT of experience with that combination of gear! 99.999% certain there is NO question you can ask that someone here can't answer!!!
 
Starting with 38 Special is a good idea. 148 grain wadcutters will have load data that’s pretty light, however most of the starting loads for any lead 124 to 158 grain bullets will also be soft shooting. Powder coated lead will be less messy than regular lead.

For 9mm I’d start with either 115 or 124 grain bullets. Most 9mm starting loads are around 25,000 PSI. This is significantly less powerful than any factory ammo and will have noticeably less recoil irregardless of the bullet weight.
 
Welcome to the world of reloading.
Get another manual or three.

I personally like the Lee one. The one you have is my second choice.
Also get the powder companies’ PDFs and/or free manuals.

To start don’t mess around with too light or too heavy a load. Start within the recommended range and be safe.

I also agree that RMR bullet suggestion is great. I love their products and Jake seems like a good guy. Try the 124 grain with BE86 combo. It makes a really nice nice shooting round.
 
Welcome to reloading and THR.

If you want to stick with 1 powder for now and want to build some light target loads but HP-38/W231 like you mentioned above. It will produce middle to full power .38 Special loads, medium power .357 Magnum loads and good 9mm loads that won't be too stout.

The extra turret is a good idea, you should have one for each set of dies you own. That is one of the advantages of the turret press, quick die set changes. Once you adjust the dies leave them in their own turret.

I like a 124/125gr bullet in the 9mm, it just seems to shoot better for me.
RMR is a good company to buy from and the owner is a member here.
https://www.rmrbullets.com

For lead and coated lead bullets I recommend the Missouri Bullet Company, good quality bulkets and excellent CS.
http://missouribullet.com

When I went from a single stage Rockchucker to a turret press for loading handgun ammo about 14 years ago I bought the same kit you just bought. Obviously I think you bought a good kit.

Good luck, ask questions often!
 
Hi Everyone-
Thank you for all the various replies- gives me some confidence I am headed the right direction and some great guidance. A little more info for those asking:

The 9MM is an XD Mod2 Service 4"

RMR is one of my two frontrunners for sourcing bullets- and I will definitely place an order with them. The other I have been looking at is SNS casting- I have seen their coated bullets in my LGS, and they are within an hour or so of me. Spoke to them last week about the ability to drive down and pick up an order (figure that'll help with some boredom), and the staff was more than accommodating- looking forward to meeting those guys. Thinking at this point with the responses I'll probably order some 124gr 9mm from RMR, and grab the coated wadcutters and maybe some coated 9mm from SNS as well. I don't have a problem shooting plain lead per say, but my range options around hear are all indoor for the most part- will be glad not to have the quite the lead cloud drifting down the lanes in front of me ; )

In addition to the press, I have calipers, and will be buying a scale soon- I've been going back and forth on digital or swing beam- thankfully, I still have some time yet.

Troy- thanks for the link to the Hodgdon manuals- that is an awesome resource. I have been thumbing a lot through their site as well.

For further clarification as well- my intention is to stay within published load ranges, just starting towards the bottom of them, working up as needed/can health wise.

Thank you all for the help!
 
It sounds like you’re off to a good start.
I would suggest you start with one bullet. Learn what you’re doing. Get your does set up and processes down before messing with others.
I don’t know about you, but I find reloading easy, but also easy to mess up if you’re not extra careful. Hence the recommendation to simplify things while you’re getting started.
Anyway, just be safe and keep us posted whatever you do.
 
Skgreen said:
Was not familiar with that, so I had to look it up.

Comes with:

Lee Classic Turret Press
Lee Deluxe 4-Die Set for the pistol caliber of your choice. ( 44/40 and 357 Sig are 3 Die Sets)
Lee Auto Disk Powder Measure
Lee Safety Prime System (Large AND Small)
Lee Auto Disk Riser (Required for the Safety Prime System)
Six MTM 50 round Plastic Ammo Boxes

:thumbup:

There are a LOT of folks here with a LOT of experience with that combination of gear! 99.999% certain there is NO question you can ask that someone here can't answer!!!
Click to expand...

So, I still do not see a SCALE; he'll also want a kinetic bullet puller for the OOPS we all have from time to time.
 
troy fairweather said:
a pair of wire cutters will work for pulling bullets until he gets a wack-a-mole puller or a rcbs puller.
Click to expand...

Why do that
Bullet pullers are cheap

Personally I reloaded for awhile before I got one. I just set my mistakes aside in a small box until I got it.

When I bought mine I looked at several. I was lucky in that I was near a Sportsman’s Warehouse. Looking at them it appeared the only difference between brands wS color and packaging. So I bought the Lyman which was the least expensive. It works well and thankfully I don’t use it much.

Right now OP should have a scale and manuals at the top of his list.
 
Lots of great info already posted above, so I will just add one thing. For once fired brass, I've gotten some screamin' deals on Etsy.
 
Sounds like you're on the right track. A couple of observations/suggestions:

  • I love light loads with small charges of fast powder. But for brand new reloaders who are still working out the process, I like powders with a little more case fill. Suggestion: get a pound of Unique. You'll find it a very useful powder for a whole lot of things, and it's a bit bulkier (and needs more weight) than things like bullseye or 231. Being able to easily see the powder in the case will give you some extra confidence in the early going.
  • Speaking of seeing the powder, think about how to get light and vision down into the case on the press. There are some inexpensive LED lights that are made to stick to the fixed part of the LCT that are good for the light... and a cheap dental mirror can help get you a clear view to the bottom of a case like .38 spl.
  • As others have said, get another manual or two. The reassurance of cross-checking data from multiple sources really helped me in the early going.
  • As you dive in, try to minimize/control variables. That way, if you are trying to troubleshoot something, you have less stuff to deal with/sort through on your way to a solution.
  • For loading on the LCT, get a digital scale. Once you've sized and primed the case, you can pull it off the press, put it on the scale, and zero the scale. Now, if you put the case back on the press and throw a load of powder through the die, you can put the charged case back on the scale and the weight will be the powder charge. No pouring back and forth. Which is nice.
  • The whole heavy-bullet-versus-light-bullet recoil discussion is in the context of achieving a certain power factor (momentum). A 115 grain bullet driven to 800fps will have less recoil in every way than a 147 grain bullet driven to 800fps. It won't feel "snappier," etc. The discussions you're seeing are typically about the choice of driving that 115 grain bullet faster - sufficiently fast to get its total momentum to equal that of the slower moving 147. That's where the interesting discussion begins. For now, no need to worry about it.
 
alfsauve said:
Speaking of Reloading manuals, the Hornady one is available on kindle for $20.
Click to expand...

This is one of the items top of my list- didn’t see the kindle version before- will get that purchased today.

I think the suggestion on the bullet puller is a great one, as is starting with one caliber before moving to the next.

I do have extensive background in safety, highly detailed work, and actually even proximate pyrotechnics. Having said all that, I’d like to keep my fingers and toes (especially now that I can feel them again). I appreciate all the input, and when I do start to do some loads I will post my experiences with that as well.
 
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