Bench rest for Revolvers?

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SabbathWolf

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I want to dial the sights on a Blackhawk revolver I have.
I figured the "best" way to do this is from a bench rest.

I tried a sandbag on my bench, and my revolver blew holes in it from all the gasses that come out around the cylinder.....lol
:eek:
:D

Any "Cheap" home-made ideas?
I'm not looking to go buy a fancy rest or anything.
Just something that works and will not scratch my gun all up either.
Yet not get burned up either....ha ha ha
 
Sandbags with duct tape repairs works for me.

If you can find an old truck innertube, cut it up and make a blast-proof throw-cover for the bags.

rc
 
I rest my forearms on the sandbags not the gun itself. Any part of the gun making contact could change the POI, or affect my follow through.
 
I used a caldwell bag today to fix the sights on my Taurus. 25 bucks indeed, worked like a charm.

But the bag "is" resistant to fire coming off of magnum guns?
That's my main concern really.

I have the Winchester bags you pick up in sporting goods at Walmart.
They burned the heck up!
But they are just bags. Not an actual rest.
lol....

Is "this" the one you and ColtPE are talking about?

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/517357/caldwell-pistolero-pistol-shooting-rest


This right here is the kind I burned up....

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Winchester-Shooting-Sandbag/16662947
 
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Nope, mine is a caldwell benchrest bag with a leather reinforced top.

It took 150 full pop mag rounds, and just got some soot.

They are heavy duty stuff.

This one :

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/886734/caldwell-deadshot-front-shooting-rest-bag-nylon-filled

And its cheaper at midway than mine ! But same one.

Actually a front rifle bag, I guess- but works perfectly for even large framed revolvers apparently !

OK. Now I see.
You have a different version similar to mine.
Sounds tougher though.
 
Go to a roofers supply, get a couple of pieces of roofing rubber, then cut to size, I normally keep a 6' square piece in my car, works if you need to change a tire along the road as something to kneel on other than gravel.
Go to your range and measure the bench top and go to the roofers and buy a piece that just hangs over the edge of the bench. Also get a couple of strips about 12" x 18" to go over any shooting bags you might have.
 
Go to a roofers supply, get a couple of pieces of roofing rubber, then cut to size, I normally keep a 6' square piece in my car, works if you need to change a tire along the road as something to kneel on other than gravel.
Go to your range and measure the bench top and go to the roofers and buy a piece that just hangs over the edge of the bench. Also get a couple of strips about 12" x 18" to go over any shooting bags you might have.

My back yard is my range.
So getting there is easy...lol

5e57ec88.gif

So you are saying to just cover the table and bags with roofing rubber?
 
Skip the plastic rests. The way I do it is the way John Taffin and Brian Pearce do it. I make my own sandbags out of heavy suede from the craft supply store. I simply fold the square sheets in half, stitch them together and fill with clean sand. I've been using the same bag as the top bag for about 15yrs and it's scorched black but still doing fine.

Pile your bags in front of you, nestle the crook where the barrel meets the frame into the bags. Do not let the butt touch anything and be sure to leave enough room for recoil movement. You can also rest your forearms either on the bench or on two more bags. For those you can use recycled denim or canvas. You will want to double-check point of impact while shooting off your hind legs because oftentimes there will be a difference. Shooting gloves will also change the POI.

I need to take some pics of my setup.
 
Skip the plastic rests. The way I do it is the way John Taffin and Brian Pearce do it. I make my own sandbags out of heavy suede from the craft supply store. I simply fold the square sheets in half, stitch them together and fill with clean sand. I've been using the same bag as the top bag for about 15yrs and it's scorched black but still doing fine.

Pile your bags in front of you, nestle the crook where the barrel meets the frame into the bags. Do not let the butt touch anything and be sure to leave enough room for recoil movement. You can also rest your forearms either on the bench or on two more bags. For those you can use recycled denim or canvas. You will want to double-check point of impact while shooting off your hind legs because oftentimes there will be a difference. Shooting gloves will also change the POI.

I need to take some pics of my setup.


Yes you do.....lol
:D
 
I had an old pair of pull on work boots, but any leather boot will work.

Simply take a utility knife around the bottom edge where the leather meets the sole and gently cut all the way around. Once you have the top removed from the sole, then start in on the top stitching. Once you have the tongue out of the way, remove any other pieces which have been sewn in around the front. This will leave you with just the back anc side portions usually.

Then get yourself a piece of the Armorflex pipe insulation that will fit around the side of a 2x6, usually 1 or 2' will work and is pretty easily found at most bigger hardware stores. Cut a half round indention in the middle of the edge of the 2x6 about 3" wide. Attach the insulation tightly across the edge, working it slowly as you go across and down through the half round indention. I used a staple gun and 5/8" staples.

Once you get this installed simply pull the leather across it tightly, working it down in the same manner. Use some of the short wide headed carpet or upholstery tacks to secure it. Attach a 1x6 across the bottom side to make it stable using some 1.5" wood screws, and it's a done deal.

It will last for years, is light weight, and is plenty to rest on, and will hold up to most any cylinder gap blast.
 
Decided to sort of borrow from a few different posts here.
Gonna built my own from wood and scrap carpet.
I appreciate all the input guys....
 
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