My older beretta 682 Trap O/U is set up with single barrel on top for trap shooting. Lately I'm getting inconsistant missfires, primers are barely dimpled, then goes back to hitting them hard. I have removed the stock and cleaned with solvent etc, without tinkering with anything else, and had good results for a short time. I suspect a dirty or worn firing pin and spring. How hard is it to remove and clean these?? Are the top and bottom pins the same, can they be interchanged?? Should I try this myself or ship it back to Beretta for a very expensive repair bill?? I've checked, and should be well over $300!!!! OUCH! Help!!
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beretta 682
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You could probably order the parts and do it yourself if you are somewhat of a handyman with guns. I've done it on a Browning O/U, but not a Beretta. Should be somewhat similar.
Also, you might contact Cole's Guns in Maine (I think) for parts or possible service. I would much rather send it to them than send it back to Beretta.
Also, you might contact Cole's Guns in Maine (I think) for parts or possible service. I would much rather send it to them than send it back to Beretta.
Here is a link to Cole Guns. It's also a parts list with exploded view for the 680 series Beretta. You should be able to find the parts you need here. If you have any questions, call them.
http://www.colegun.com/Series_680_Parts.pdf
http://www.colegun.com/Series_680_Parts.pdf
It appears the that hammer spring guide nut holds the hammer spring bushing in place. If the nut is missing, then perhaps the bushing is too. This may be the reason you are not getting consistent ignition with your top barrel.
If the nut is present for the bottom barrel (since you use only the top barrel), I would see if it would fit on the guide rod for the top barrel. You might be able to fix your problem that way.
If that doesn't work, at least order a new hammer spring, spring guide bushing, and nut and replace them for the top barrel. You might get a new firing pin for the top barrel while you are at it. It's probably different from the bottom firing pin.
Usually to replace firing pins, all you have to do is drift out a little retaining pin which holds the firing pin in its hole. The bottom barrel usually has a small firing pin return spring, but not the top barrel. At least that's the way it is on a Citori. When drifting out the retaining pin, punch it from the small diameter end toward the large diameter end. When replacing it, do it in the reverse since the retaining pin is usually tapered. Observe carefully which is the small end and which is the large end of the retaining pin.
Even if you don't replace the firing pin (which I think you should), at least remove it and clean out the firing pin recess hole. Sometimes grease, dirt, and metal filings can build up in there and retard the firing pin strike enough to cause misfires.
BTW, be sure the hammers are cocked (and safety engaged) before trying to remove the firing pins. It might be pretty difficult to do otherwise.
If the nut is present for the bottom barrel (since you use only the top barrel), I would see if it would fit on the guide rod for the top barrel. You might be able to fix your problem that way.
If that doesn't work, at least order a new hammer spring, spring guide bushing, and nut and replace them for the top barrel. You might get a new firing pin for the top barrel while you are at it. It's probably different from the bottom firing pin.
Usually to replace firing pins, all you have to do is drift out a little retaining pin which holds the firing pin in its hole. The bottom barrel usually has a small firing pin return spring, but not the top barrel. At least that's the way it is on a Citori. When drifting out the retaining pin, punch it from the small diameter end toward the large diameter end. When replacing it, do it in the reverse since the retaining pin is usually tapered. Observe carefully which is the small end and which is the large end of the retaining pin.
Even if you don't replace the firing pin (which I think you should), at least remove it and clean out the firing pin recess hole. Sometimes grease, dirt, and metal filings can build up in there and retard the firing pin strike enough to cause misfires.
BTW, be sure the hammers are cocked (and safety engaged) before trying to remove the firing pins. It might be pretty difficult to do otherwise.
I think that's a good idea. BTW, the only "tricky" part that I can think of in the process is the removal of the hammer spring and the replacement of the new one.
Some people will use needle nose pliers to capture and control the spring. You have to be able to compress the spring in order to remove the hammer strut (spring guide) from its position.
I usually use a sheet or pillow case over my work bench while doing this so that if the pliers slip, the spring and strut won't be launched across the room and lost. Also be sure to wear safety glasses since the spring could slip and hit you in the eye.
If you are lucky, the hammer strut will have a small diameter hole in it like on some revolvers. Then you could just compress the spring, slip a paper clip through the hole, let the pressure off the spring and simply lift out the strut with the spring on it.
One other method of removing the spring/strut is by wrapping a wire around the head of the strut and twisting the wire several times, then pull down on the twisted wire with pliers until you've compressed the spring enough to remove the strut from its position.
Good luck and if you have any questions, I'll try to help.
Some people will use needle nose pliers to capture and control the spring. You have to be able to compress the spring in order to remove the hammer strut (spring guide) from its position.
I usually use a sheet or pillow case over my work bench while doing this so that if the pliers slip, the spring and strut won't be launched across the room and lost. Also be sure to wear safety glasses since the spring could slip and hit you in the eye.
If you are lucky, the hammer strut will have a small diameter hole in it like on some revolvers. Then you could just compress the spring, slip a paper clip through the hole, let the pressure off the spring and simply lift out the strut with the spring on it.
One other method of removing the spring/strut is by wrapping a wire around the head of the strut and twisting the wire several times, then pull down on the twisted wire with pliers until you've compressed the spring enough to remove the strut from its position.
Good luck and if you have any questions, I'll try to help.
Had to wait till Mon AM to speak with Cole folks. Very nice and helpful people. After describing my problem, he told me he thought there was a chance that the locking latch may have reached end of its adjustment (asked about position of locking lever after gun is closed) Said it might be hitting the hammer on occasion and causing the problem. Anyway since I already have firing pin etc diassembled, I ordered it and hammer spring stuff, If that dosen't fix it, I'll send it to him. A complete tune up for 175.00 plus parts, sounds prety good. Again thanks for the help!!
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