Beretta Silver Snipe O/U

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SavingNolanRyan

SavingNolanRyan

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From what I can gather so far, the Beretta Silver Snipe O/U 12guage was made in the '50's-60's. It has a single trigger. A few questions I have so far are about the trigger. I have shot old double barrel with two triggers and more modern pump shotguns. How does this trigger work, (shoots bottom barrel on first trigger squeeze and then top barrel on second pull?). With the birds on the shotgun, I assume this should be for birds and maybe clays, but I would imagine bird shot only? How do I know what length shells to use, (I don't see any markings to indicate). I assume 2 3/4". I am trying to locate a manual, but short of that, trying to understand disassembly for cleaning, suggested shell size/type and any ammo considerations. Thanks in advance.

Mike
 
I had a 20 gauge Golden Snipe with two sets of barrels in the 1960s. Excellent, beautiful little gun. Choke markings are on the barrels in the unseen area. Chamber length is also, in millimeters. The non selective single trigger is shifted between barrels by an inertia mechanism.
 
Take the forend off. Take the barrels off. There will be markings for the chamber length in mm as previously mentioned. Probably is a non selective trigger. Selection would be on the safety if it was selective. Yes fires bottom barrel first.
 
I took the barrels off and each have one star. I am reading that to be full / full built in chokes. I found the code and it dates to 1960. I put snap caps in and the trigger releases the first firing pin...how do you get the second barrel to activate without the selector switch? When stored, how do you be sure the firing pins aren't under tension?
 
SavingNolanRyan said:
From what I can gather so far, the Beretta Silver Snipe O/U 12guage was made in the '50's-60's. It has a single trigger. A few questions I have so far are about the trigger. I have shot old double barrel with two triggers and more modern pump shotguns. How does this trigger work, (shoots bottom barrel on first trigger squeeze and then top barrel on second pull?). With the birds on the shotgun, I assume this should be for birds and maybe clays, but I would imagine bird shot only? How do I know what length shells to use, (I don't see any markings to indicate). I assume 2 3/4". I am trying to locate a manual, but short of that, trying to understand disassembly for cleaning, suggested shell size/type and any ammo considerations. Thanks in advance.

Mike
Click to expand...

It is inertia (recoil) operated. Once you pull the trigger on the first snap cap, you can bump the butt on the ground and reset for the second one, simulating recoil working against the shoulder. Recoil operated O/U's are less expensive to make, and have fewer parts. They also do not have selective barrels, it fires one then the other in the same sequence every time. (of course, if it's full/full, it really doesn't matter...)

If you can switch the selector switch and fire the second barrel, then it is mechanical. That'll teach me to read the entire post before I reply. :D
 
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I think it is an inertia trigger. If it was mechanical you could fire the second barrel just by pulling the trigger again. If it does not do that then bump the stock and see that it switches. Inertia triggers can be selective or non selective. If there is no barrel selector then it is non selective. I personally do not release the tension on the springs. The gun has coil springs. I just store my guns cocked unless it has leaf springs, If you do want to release the triggers the easy way is to buy a pair of snap caps and store the guns with the caps in it.
 
Sorry for all the question about this particular shotgun. Does anyone know if the extractors from this period launch the shells out of the breech or just sort of move them back slightly so they are easier to pull out. I have seen vids on Silver Pigeons and other models that seem to kick the shells out. If this era is supposed to do the same, I likely need to tear it down beyond just removing the barrels from the action. This is where my original desire to find a manual for this model or something that details the disassembly and cleaning at that level.

Mike
 
SavingNolanRyan said:
Does anyone know if the extractors from this period launch the shells out of the breech or just sort of move them back slightly so they are easier to pull out.
Click to expand...
Easy to figure out with a fired hull or simply observing what the extractors do when you pull the trigger and break the gun open.
 
It's possible to set an ejector up to extract only, but not the other way around. As FFoaM says, easy to determine which it is, though an ejector can be altered to extract only. The procedure to do so varies, both in method, and difficulty.
 
Be very careful "bumping" the stock especially if the gun has a hard buttplate. You could very easily crack it or even worse damage the stock.
Make sure the surface you bump it on has some cushion or just wait until you can fire some shells through it to test it.
 
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The butt plate of any shotgun should never be on the ground!
Never at anytime resting on the ground, that's what the toe's
on your feet are for.
 
As I get up to speed on my shotgun knowledge, does anyone know if I would be limited to 2 3/4" shells and with the built in full choke, is steel birdshot an option or something to avoid? What shells would be a good place to start for an all around shell - length, shot size and type.

Thanks again,
Mike
 
Somewhere on the barrel should tell you the chamber size. If it says 2 3/4 then 2.75 ammo is the longest you should use. If it says 3" chamber than you can use up to 3" ammo.
 
Right....there are other markings on the barrel and I forgot that being built in Italy, they would use the metric system. I will pop the barrels and check for 70mm.
 
jaguarxk120 said:
The butt plate of any shotgun should never be on the ground!
Never at anytime resting on the ground, that's what the toe's
on your feet are for.
Click to expand...

Despite Bob Allen's lasting contribution to Trap & Skeet, the lace/snap on toe pad, magnetic barrel rest pads are a bit safer. I have a Shamrock one, I keep my right foot on part of it as I get into position. Usually only use it after shot #5 on a station. (I like to be either #1 or #2 on a squad.)


natman said:
No steel shot with a full choke.
Click to expand...

Indeed; no steel through a full choke, unless it's labelled for Steel Full. Usually they will say Full/Steel Mod./Lead Mod.
 
The Berreta Silver Snipe in 20 gauge. I haven't shot it yet, but plan shoot Trap and hunt Quail. My wife won't let me hunt Doves because she says they represent the "Holy Spirit".
My question is regarding storage and transport. What is the proper procedure to disassemble the shotgun into two pieces. Barrels with forend attached and separately the receiver and stock. I read that it is best to have the springs released so they are not under tension. Thank you for your informed responses.
 
To store in 2 pieces, pop the fore end latch, remove the fore end, push the lever and take off the barrels, and then put the fore end back on the barrels.

If you decide to store the gun with the barrels removed be sure you have a good case for that that keeps the barrels and the receiver and stock separated. Don't ask me why I mention that. I now store my guns and transport my guns assembled in long cases. I think there is less wear, less chance of dirt getting in the action, and less chance of damage that way.

There is probably a way to let the hammers down on the receiver when the barrels. I suspect it consists of holding a rubber piece like a pencil eraser for the firing pin to hit. All in all I think you will have more damage that way than leaving it cocked or assembled with snap caps. I personally do not think coil mainsprings in guns loose tension from being cocked.
 
Galazan has a horn striker block that is much better than a flimsy piece of
rubber on the end of a pencil.
 
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