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Beretta 92FS accurizing?

Discussion in 'Handguns: Autoloaders' started by MTMilitiaman, Jan 15, 2010.

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  1. MTMilitiaman

    MTMilitiaman Member

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    My dad has this stainless Beretta 92FS 9mm. It has the single worst trigger I've ever experienced on any firearm of any type, ever--like dragging cinder blocks across gravel. He's a decent pistol shot. I've seen him shoot ragged custers the size of my fist out of targets 25 to 30 yards away with his Ruger P90, which itself doesn't have that good of a trigger. But even with the addition of adjustable sights, he's been unable to get the pistol to shoot point of aim, or to achieve the accuracy he expects.

    I know 1911 smiths are a dime a dozen. But a brief Google search hasn't yeilded anything in the way of a single gunsmith specialing in Berettas. I am looking for someone reputable to do some trigger and general accuracy work on a Beretta...any suggestions?
     
  2. wbwanzer

    wbwanzer Member

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    This fellow works on Berettas. I have not used him for anything yet, but I believe he has a good reputation. http://www.olhasso.com/
     
  3. Slamfire

    Slamfire Member

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  4. MachIVshooter

    MachIVshooter Member

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    Something sounds off. 92's usually have pretty decent triggers compared to other TDA auto's.
     
  5. mljdeckard

    mljdeckard Member

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    I agree. I'm not a Beretta fan, but the SA pull is great, and the DA pull is a bit long, but I've never thought it was particularly bad.
     
  6. PFribley

    PFribley Member

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    The only one I ever shot sure had a log pull. Have to admit I like Berettas.
     
  7. skipsan

    skipsan Member

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    Beretta has (or at least they had) an in-house trigger job for about $80 if I recall. They wont admit it, but I believe it also involves a change of mainspring to the "D" spring which I believe is the mainspring for the double action only configuration.

    Whatever they do, the results were spectacular in smoothing up the trigger and reducing the trigger pull in single and double action. They send a build sheet back with the pistol with the pre and post trigger pulls, and I believe the pulls were reduced in both single and double action by 30% at least--and very smooth with no creep in SA. The DA pull is still pretty long, but nothing can be done about that.

    The downside is that you have to pay FedEx postage to and from Beretta which is not insignificant, unless you have connections that can legally use the UPS system.

    The trigger job is described on their website, or at least it was. Well worth a look. Having a local smith change out the mainspring to the "D" configuration would be a good place to start if you're going to stay local.
     
  8. Quack

    Quack Member

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  9. wbwanzer

    wbwanzer Member

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    Thanks Quack. I just read that whole thread from the 1911 forum. Very interesting.
     
  10. rborensr

    rborensr Member

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    SlamFire1, How does the barrel come out of the slide, it looks like the front of the barrel is belled?
     
  11. Bones11b

    Bones11b Member

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    Plus 1 on the thanks Quack, very interesting read.
     
  12. ants

    ants Member

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    The barrel isn't belled, it's just slimmed along its waist. The 'bell' diameter is actually the bushing diameter machined in the slide.

    Quick and cheap trick: Use a mainspring from a 1911 pistol in place of the hammer spring, rather than buying Beretta's 'D' hammer spring. I bought 2 for the price of one Beretta spring. I use the 18# in the Beretta and the 20# in a 1911.
     
  13. Chindo18Z

    Chindo18Z Member

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    Another quick/cheap fix:

    After removing the mainspring, cut 2-4 coils off using a good pair of needlenose pliers, leatherman, or Dremel tool. This will lighten and smooth your DA trigger pull to a noticeably better level.

    START BY REMOVING 2-3 COILS. NEVER CUT OFF MORE THAN 4.

    Remove more than 4 coils and you will have light hammer strikes, misfires, etc.

    Beretta will never tell you to do this, but it works just fine.

    BTW: The mainspring is the one in heel of the grip (not the recoil spring in the slide). Sometimes folks get the terms confused.
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2010
  14. Slamfire

    Slamfire Member

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    The barrel does not come out of the slide. At least I don't know how to take it out.
     
  15. Canuck-IL

    Canuck-IL Member

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    The barrel sort of has to come out to strip the pistol, doncha' think?

    Most 1911 barrels are also flared on the muzzle end to lock up tightly in the bushing.

    Here's a basic accurizing article that's old but still relevant ... quotes results from a David Sams accuraized M9 of .875" at 50 yards (Bullseye/Service Pistol slow fire range).
    http://www.gun-tests.com/performance/oct97shootbetter.html
    /Bryan
     
  16. Sam1911

    Sam1911 Moderator

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    Yup Dave has a very good reputation with the M9/92. I've shot a friend's 92 that was worked on by Dave back before Dave O. switched to shooting S&W stuff. Looks like he still works on the Berettas, though.

    -Sam
     
  17. Slamfire

    Slamfire Member

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    I leave it in, wipe and clean around it.

    I don't like not being able to detail strip a autopistol down to the bare essentials, like a M1911, but these later model designs, you just leave the guts in the thing.

    My first experience was in attempting to detail diassemble a P38. It did not take long to figure out the best thing for me to do was leave well enough alone.
     
  18. Canuck-IL

    Canuck-IL Member

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    How to field-strip (disassemble) Beretta 92 pistol:
    1) remove the magazine by pressing the magazine release button;
    2) check that the chamber is empty;
    3) pull the slide all the way back and lock it with the slide stop lever;
    4) depress the takedown lever stop, which is the small button located of the left frame above the trigger guard;
    5) while holding the button down, rotate the takedown lever (located at the right side of the frame) downward about 90o ;
    6) pull the slide slightly back to disengage the slide stop, then carefully push it all the way forward and out of the frame;
    7) remove the return spring by pushing its head slightly forward and then pulling it out of the detent in the barrel;
    8) push the locking lever pin (protrudes backwards from below the barrel breech area), then lift up the barrel from the slide.
    Reassemble in reverse order.

    Also, numerous videos on youtube.
    /B
     
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