Best AR components; lower and upper receiver

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Tom Fury

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Taking the plunge to build my own; overwhelmed by the plethora of options; would like recommendations to cut down the field to top 5. Have a lot of time on my hands to collect components, but want to start with stripped or best complete lower and go to best upper; intend to go with flat top and flip up sights, A4.
Thanks, TF
 
You are going to get a plethora of suggestons on this post, so let me be the first to comment. I have built two AR's from scratch for myself and my son. I used DPMS components purchased from Brownell's and have been more than pleased with them. I did use Chip McCormick drop in trigger assemblies(no longer listed in Brownell's catalog). Mine is a 20" HB flat top varmint rifle and my son's is a 16" carbine, both with 1/9'' DPMS barrels. Both shoot under 1" groups with either 55 or 62 gr GI bullets.Good luck with your project.
 
your biggest choice will be the roll mark you want on the side

almost all are of great quality and will function fine

I do not think there is an actual "best" of anything unless by paying more makes it the best

there are some that have slightly different options like checkering in different places or built in trigger guards.

look at the picture threads to determine what you like and fits you and your budget

do not let people force you to select something just because all the "cool kids" have it

I personally do see how much better a $200+ Larue or Vltor upper will make your rifle shoot compared to any other $80 upper

"they have better quality control"

yadda yadda

most people can't shoot as good as their rifles can anyway

just my opinion
 
I would get the lower receiver first since there are so many excellent ones and few to avoid. Also you get the "firearm" part of the equation out of the mix right off and can take your time researching and finding great deals that can be UPS'ed to your front door.

As weeniewawa said, get the roll mark you like because that's what most people will think your AR is. I found a S&W M&P-15 stripped lower locally for $130 a few months back and jumped on it. I could have saved $15 or so but the logo was worth it to me. Of course lowers are cheaper today. My friends see my AR as a S&W but I think of it as ArmaLite since that's the upper I went with.

Next I would press on and get the lower parts kit and buttstock so that you have a functioning lower (that can be tested with a borrowed upper if a friend has one). Really it's pretty hard to go astray finishing the lower, a little research goes a long way. Now on uppers and sights, you do want to take a lot of time immersing yourself in the details before buying.
 
NOT SO FAST GUYS

Generally speaking BILLET uppers/lowers are considered to be the most precisely machined and finished. So If I were looking for the "best" in that respect that's what I'd buy.

Most of your forged parts will be on the same playing field

avoid cast and anything with vulcan Hesse or blackthorne stamped on it
 
Generally speaking BILLET uppers/lowers are considered to be the most precisely machined and finished. So If I were looking for the "best" in that respect that's what I'd buy.

Except you have to pay attention to what the Billet upper/lower is machined out of. Military uppers and lowers are 7075T6 Aluminium. I know at least one manufacturer who sells billet machined uppers and lowers at a premium price; but uses cheaper 6061 Aluminium for their metal.
 
I would stay away from billeted receivers but will say some look real nice. Unless you know exactly what you're getting as Bartholomew Roberts said, the advantage goes to forged.
 
Except you have to pay attention to what the Billet upper/lower is machined out of. Military uppers and lowers are 7075T6 Aluminium. I know at least one manufacturer who sells billet machined uppers and lowers at a premium price; but uses cheaper 6061 Aluminium for their metal.


That may well be. But it's debatable that it would matter since it's perfectly acceptable to make these parts from plastic or composites
 
But it's debateable that would matter

Yes, it will depend on your use. However, it is worth noting that broken/cracked receivers aren't unheard of. One of the improvements to the M16A2lower receiver was to further reinforce the area where the lower receiver extension attaches (and they were already using 7075T6).

If you are building a varmint gun or target rifle, it probably won't matter much. If you are doing a lot of training or occasionally need to "mortar" the stock for a stuck case, then I would want 7075T6.

However, if we are talking "best", then I think 7075T6 is probably the minimun you want to go with.
 
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