Best Fighting Revolver

[bnbc]

For a fighting revolver would the SW 66 4", 66 2-1/2" or the Performance Center 3" V8 627 be best?

 

[tech]

I will take a 4" 586.
4" 686 for harsher enviorments.

Mike

 

[WonderNine]

Model 19? They handle real quick.

 

[valnar]

Fighting?

686 Plus.
7 over 6.

Edit:
If reloading is important, a 625 with moonclips!

-Robert

 

[tech]

You got me there valnar but then I would have to buy new speedloaders.

Mike

 

[Tamara]

Given just those three choices? I'd take the PC627.

Out of all the revolvers I have? Depends. If CCW isn't an issue, then probably my slightly dolled-up 4" Model 57. If I have to hide it, then my PC13 gets the nod.

 

[ACP]

If you can conceal it, the 4" 66 has great balance and (of course) the longer barrel, sight radius, and full-length ejector.

The 2.5" conceals better, especially if it's a round butt (same goes for the 4" model). Youll give up some in barrel and weight, and that may cause you to step down to medium velocity .357 Magnum loads. Then you're in the standard 9mm ballpark for foot pounds and one stop shots, if you believe in those kinds of stats. I do.

The 3" I'm not familiar with. I'd stay away from anything ported, though.

Overall? The snubby 66 with full-power loads if you can handle them. If not, the 4" model.

And to those who mention the L-frames... I love my 686, but I wouldn't want to carry it concealed all day every day. My Model 19 snubby can fit in the front pocket of some cargo shorts.

 

[Brian Williams]

I generally prefer my S&W 13 3" heavy barrel but if I could get either of the following

A mod 13-2 P&R Round butt with a 4" pencil barrel from a mod10-4 Pinned and the grips from a PC 686 in 38 super, I think they are Ahrends grips

or

A Mod 58 round butt with a 3" heavy barrel

 

[David]

I think the S&W 627PC would be my choice for the BEST fighting wheelgun.



By the way, do they make speedloaders for the 627PC?

P.S. The 627PC is also a SUPER looking firearm:

 

[Phil in Seattle]

By the way, do they speedloaders for the 627PC?

Yeap, they're called 8 shot moon clips.



I really have to make the time to take a better photo of this one.

 

[Mike Irwin]

My first choice for a serious situational revolver is a Model 19 with a 4" barrel.

If I knew I would be facing some "interesting" situations, that would be the first, last, and only gun I would pick up.

 

[Rob96]

Fighting revovler. I would grab my Ruger KGP-141.

 

[JimC]

Another vote for the S&W M19 4" bbl.

I carried mine on and off-duty for many years while in LE, very happy with it.

 

[Bulldozer]

S&W 686 Plus with a 3-inch tube if I could open carry. Lots of HKS-587s as well.

If I needed to be DISCREET, then it'd be a SW-66 with a 3-inch tube and Safariland Comp-Is.

 

[ruger357]

66

 

[Tom C.]

I will take my old S&W Model 25-2, .45 ACP, with 5" barrel, loaded with Hydra Shocks. Second place would be my Model 27 with a good nasty 125 JHP.

 

[Johnny Guest]

No, no, No, NO!

You got it all wrong! If you want a fighting revolver, you need to have a S&W .50. That is, if you don't want a .50 Desert Eagle.

Seriously - - your question was, I believe,

For a fighting revolver would the SW 66 4", 66 2-1/2" or the Performance Center 3" V8 627 be best?

Of those choices, and presuming you want to carry it concealed, My choice is the 4" M66 with small stocks in good holster mated to a decently wide and thick belt. If you can wear an IWB holster or a belly band, so much the better. The 4" K frame is one of the world's great all around revolvers - - Small and light enough (barely) for concealment and everyday carry, with enough heft to be controlable with some very serious loads, and enough barrel to develop good velocity with them.

In my personal experience, the 2.5" version is useful, really, mainly for pocket use, but too heavy for most such applications. That, and for a horizontal shoulder holster. There's no real advantage for it in a belt holster, especially as there's not enough barrel to press against the hip and keep the butt tucked against your body.

Same comments apply to the 627, about concealment. I've carried an N-frame concealed and I find it too heavy and too bulky for continuous, comfortable carry. Again, the exception might be in a shoulder holster.

One man's opinion, backed by 35+ years of concealed carry. YMMV.

Best,
Johnny

 

[bnbc]

Phil,
Who makes those sharp looking grips on your 627pc?
Do you carry it for CCW?

 

[MR.G]

My 3" PC 627 V8 with the 3" barrel, and removable compensator looks nice but is too heavy and bulky for defensive use. I prefer one of my 686 plus. One shot less, but easier to handle. My 2-1/2" and 3" carry the best, but the 4" shoots best.

 

[Frenchy]

I would like either a 13 or a 65 in 3" configuration.

 

[Prodigalshooter]

686 3" with 8 round cylinder
or
GP100 3"
or
S&W 625 4"


and lots of Safariland speedloaders!!
or moonclips, in the 625 scenario.

 

[Kahr carrier]

S&W 642 Airweight -light with an internal hammer for pocket carry.

 

[Stainz]

Reviewing my collection, I would use:

CC: M296 with 200gr GDJHP CCI Blazers.

Open Carry (not quite concealed):
629 MG same ammo as above - and more - or 625 with many moonclips... and 'just' 230gr FMJ 'ball' ammo

Open Carry and I am on the lunch menu: 7.5" Super Redhawk .454 Cassul

Conceptually speaking, for more bg than that 296 might dispatch, I would suggest something crew-served... belt fed, etc. I don't have anything suitable for that situation.

 

[Tman]

David

They do make speedloaders for the PC627. I have the 3" V-Comp (I think the same as Mr. G). These are rubber. With 38sp, it is a little difficult to load, but very difficult with .357 due to the cyclinder release interfering with insertion (length issues).

 

[Ivansrm]

model 13 w/ 3 inch heavy bar.