Is there a "best" model 66 ?

Status
Not open for further replies.

18DAI

Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2007
Messages
1,072
I'm looking at a few model 66's, all pre key lock.

I cannot afford to buy them all, unfortunately.

The models are 66-2, 66-3, and 66-4. Is there a preferred, or "best" model of the S&W 66?

Thanks! TJ
 
Personally I like the -1s because they are P&R. But for the ones you mention I don't think it really matters, they will all shoot the same! Get the one you like the best. IIRC the -3 was the last revision before MIM parts.
 
I personally like the -1's because of they are P&R'ed. The early (really early) No Dash ones had problems with locking up sometimes when hot. IIRC, I think it's because of the gas ring location--I could be wrong. Someone more knowledgeable please chime in here.

Of the options, you listed, my preference would probably go from oldest to newest, but finding the best individual specimen would take precedence.
 
I used to own a 2 1/2" 66-2 or -3 , cannot recall now, that was quite a good shooter. Last year I finally got around to adding a 4" 66-1 to the collection. I like the look of the pinned/recessed guns - very minimal gap at the recoil shield.

Like Boulder said though , the one that was in the best shape might be the one to go with.
 
if you have enough selection to get picky, i'd go with the -1 for the recessed rims and then look for one with a 6" barrel. although they later became a standard offering in the line, the 6" barrel started as a LE only option
 
I have a 66-1 and traded it in for a 66-2. While I like the pinned barrels, I do not like recessed case heads. I prefer to be able to look at the breech end side of the cylinder to determine if the revolver is loaded. That is quicker than opening the cylinder, and safer than pointing the barrel at your head to see if there are bullets in the cylinder.

The 66-2 has the hammer mounted firing pin. I prefer direct strike mechanisms. Ignition is more certain compared to a system that transfers the impact energy through a spring loaded firing pin and then the primer.
 
i like my original 66 no dash i have heard stories of them locking up but i have not had any problems out of mine all the dash models mean is changes that were made it may be external or internal just reference Smith to find out what they changed my 2 cents which one feels the best to u buy
 
I have a 66-2 three-inch that I like quite a bit.
slamfire, looking at the case rims DOES NOT confirm that the gun is loaded. It only confirms that there are brass casing in the gun. Open the cylinder, confirm that there are live cartridges in the gun. Also, opening the cylinder gives you an opportunity to confirm that you have no high primers. I generally open cylinder, then close cylinder until the locking center pin in the ejector rides in past the ramp in the recoil shield. I then rotate the cylinder 360 degrees so that all six cartridges rotate past the 12 o'clock position. This confirms that all six primers are properly seated and will not tie up the gun. I then close the cylinder and holster the gun. When you CCW a revolver, you develop these little fail safe procedures.
 
I also have a 3" 66-2 and really like it. I emailed S&W and found out mine was built in 1988. I do like the firing pin on the hammer like Slamfire said. Old millwright hand and know that the less moving parts you have is directly related to less problems down the road (along with lubrication).

My two cents would be to find a couple you like and compare price and wear (slack).
 
I had a 66-2 in 4". One of the best guns I ever owned. Only sold it to finance a Colt Python 6" made in 1982.
 
66-4 4" would not sell or trade it. likes 357 the best-pins out to 50 yards, spot on. target hammer & trigger, no side lock.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top