Best Gun Safe?

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What safes are available to you? What are your requirements? How much of a budget do you have? Are you looking to keep bad guys out or just your kids? How much fire rating do you want? If the fire dept. is two minutes away, you don't really need a 60 minute fire rating (and associated cost).

I chose to get as much steel as I could afford with and S&G mechanical lock and a good fire rating. I could have gotten a larger safe with less protection but that was my priority. I stretched my budget and got a Ft. Knox and have been very happy with it.

One thing the safe guys will tell you is to get twice the volume you think you need because you WILL fill it up!
 
CB900F
aerod1

What about safes that are not "gun" related. ;)

Reason I mention this is a buddy of mine bought from a Jeweler,retiring his Tann Safe.
About 6' tall, with the TR/TL rating being an hour, 3 timelocks, day lock, beefed up dial, glass in the door that when broken "locks down the safe, and "pigeon holes".

Now I have seen this exact safe "attacked", with a burn bar, and other tools and access denied.
It did require a Professional, as you two, to get the door, open, re "glassed" and everything, and repainted.

He just removed the shelves, handguns can also fit into the upper lockable safe.

He added a o-l-d floor Grocery Store safe for other items as well.
His kid when younger would drive that safe with the "steering wheel" handle, sorta funny, guess one had to be there to appreciate. :p

The last Tann I bought was $17,000 some years ago, this old boy got this used one for a good price.

Just thinking *maybe* not having 'gun' attached to the name, or marketing might assist some folks.
;)
 
Looking for a gun safe

I had planned on buying top-of-the-line Browning for approx $3k. Ran across Granite Safe Co in Ft Worth. They seem similar except Browing uses S&G electronic lock and Granite uses LG. Granite is also a bit cheaper and they are easier to deal with. Questions: 1. Comments Browning vs Granite. 2. S&G electronic lock versus LG.
 
Idfitch;

If you're planning on spending that kind of money, why not investigate getting a real safe instead of an RSC? Both the Browning and the Granite are Residential Security Containers, or RSC's. The U.L. definition of RSC is posted on this site, just search. Or, you can trust A1abdj & I when we tell you that the RSC designation is just a polite way of saying "tin box".

I'd be happy to quote you a Graffunder & I'm sure that A1abdj'd be happy to quote you an AMSEC.

As for the locks, either is a good quality item IMHO.

900F
 
SM,

There are a few varieties of Tann safes, with the English Tanns being the better of the bunch. Some of these safes can be insured with millions of dollars in content depending on the rating. Some will carry UL ratings (US), and others will carry European ratings.

One of the things my company does is deal with custom safes. Whether the safe is being ordered new for a specific application, or if we are retrofitting a used safe for a new use. We have converted many burglar rated safes into gun safes. The safe shown below is a TL-15 plate safe that weighs somewhere in the 5,500 to 6,000 pound range. It will end up being a gun safe when I'm done with it.

DSCN2548.jpg


1. Comments Browning vs Granite. 2. S&G electronic lock versus LG.

Granite builds safes sold as Winchester, Red Head, Granite, and Treadlock, and the Brownings are actually built by Pro Steel.

Both safes are OK, but neither is built heavy enough to be classified as a safe. As CB900F stated, you can get a real safe for not much more than what you're already looking to spend.

If you had to go with one of the two, I think the Brownings are nicer appearance wise. Granite tends to build a lot of lower end units (the ones available for $500 through Sams), and tends to overlook a lot of quality control issues.

As for the electronic locks, the Lagard electronic locks have a better reputation amongst locksmiths when compared to the S&G electronic locks. Although both locks are electronic, and thus prone to failure, the S&G locks tend to fail at a much higher rate.
 
Bear in mind that ANY safe can be opened.:what::what:


The purpose of a gun safe is to prevent the "crime of opportunity" type burglar from getting to your guns. Most commercial gun safes, including Liberty will do that.

The typical burglar wants to be "in and out" in as short of a time as possible to diminish the risk of capture. The "safe" is to slow him down, not to completely stop a professional. If a "professional" knows that you have a high dollar collection, and he has carefully targeted your home, he will bring the proper tools and skills, and no safe made will stop him. Gun safes are to stop the "typical" criminal and they do a geat job of that.
 
Cheygriz;

Not quite right. True, any safe can be opened, after all we, the USA, got into the national vaults of Iraq. But, don't try to tell me the heist wasn't noticed. :neener:

The better true safes can, & frequently do, make it such a PIA for the bad guys that they do go elsewhere. When the bad guys realize that it's gonna take time, make noise, and draw unwanted attention to open a safe they usually try to remove the whole thing from the owner's property. As has been discussed on this site many times, there are ways to make that very difficult also.

There are ways into the typical RSC in well under 5 minutes. In fact total time in the structure probably won't exceed 5 minutes & that specifically includes poppin' the RSC & lookin' the rest of the house over too.

900F
 
a1abdj,
Thank you for your reply.
My experiences include the English Tann safes, with Million(s) of dollars worth of value to protect.
The one you shared a Picture of, I am familiar with one similar as well.

Custom safes converted , yes I quite understand this too.

My point in posting as I did was simply to share while some have budgets, and are limited by structures [size of room, the structure supporting weight of safe, etc) one "might" find a really great safe for the money, have someone like you to customize it a bit, and come out way ahead on "what they get for monies spent" over a Safe with a "gun name attached to it.

Steve
 
Are there any notable points where any particular brand/model’s features and price come together to make good value?

Is Graffunder overpriced or proven high quality? Are there comparable manufacturers which charge less?

How expensive is shipping a 1000 lb. safe half or three-fourths of the way across the US?

Many thanks to our more knowledgeable contributors to this subject.
 
Are there any notable points where any particular brand/model’s features and price come together to make good value?

Safes are like any other product available for sale. Two safes may have the same rating, but one may be built better than the other. It's just a matter of comparing the individual features, and then comparing the price tag of each.

Is Graffunder overpriced or proven high quality? Are there comparable manufacturers which charge less?

Graffunder is a quality product.

One thing is for certain. When you are buying a safe, you are buying protection. Althought there are always exceptions, you get what you pay for. Cheap price = cheap product.

When you're buying protection, you shouldn't buy cheap. Would you wear the cheapest bullet resistant vest? Buckle up with the cheapest seat belt? Jump out of an airplane with the cheapest parachute? You should determine your need, then buy accordingly. We tell our customers that they can expect to spend approximately 10% of their contents on the proper safe to protect them.

How expensive is shipping a 1000 lb. safe half or three-fourths of the way across the US?

Not as bad as you might think. You can ship 1,000 pounds across country for less than $400. Keep in mind that the safes have to get there somehow. It doesn't matter if you order it and have it shipped, or buy it at the store down the street. Somebody is paying to get it there, and it will certainly be reflected in the price.
 
There are ways into the typical RSC in well under 5 minutes. In fact total time in the structure probably won't exceed 5 minutes & that specifically includes poppin' the RSC & lookin' the rest of the house over too.

I think 5 minutes is a bit overly optimistic for the average burglar. (after all, he's not a rocket scientist, or he wouldn't be a burglar.:p And even 10 minutes would assume that he had the proper tools and a working knowledge of gunsafes.

Joe Burglar wants to be "in and out" in less than 3 minutes, according to everything we were taught at the academy.
 
I think 5 minutes is a bit overly optimistic for the average burglar. (after all, he's not a rocket scientist, or he wouldn't be a burglar. And even 10 minutes would assume that he had the proper tools and a working knowledge of gunsafes.

If the average burglar knows how to operate a sledge hammer, then 5 minutes is about all you're going to get when it comes to keeping that average burlgar out of a 12 gauge gun safe.

Of course most burlgars aren't carrying around a sledge hammer. Make sure yours isn't sitting somewhere they will notice it. Most of the burglaries I've seen were made using tools found on the premises. Of course those that are specifically targeting a location tend to bring their own tools.

Joe Burglar wants to be "in and out" in less than 3 minutes, according to everything we were taught at the academy

If you only need 3 minutes worth of protection, then you shouldn't even waste your money on a gun safe. A $100 cabinet should provide that much protection.
 
a1abdj
Safes are designed to protect against burglary and fire. If your safe has never been burglarized, and never been in a fire, how do you know how good it is? Basing your opinion on price or looks has nothing to do with how good of a safe it really is. Basing your opinion on a manufactuer's claim also has nothing to do with how your safe will actually perform when put to its intended use.

It's like anything else. You do your research, and then pay your money, and take your chances. A gun safe is insurance. Most of the time your insurance dollar buys you nothing more than peace of mind.
 
Basing your opinion on a manufactuer's claim also has nothing to do with how your safe will actually perform when put to its intended use.

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU! I couldn't put it better myself. I'm really irritated right now at 2 popular safe companies who make outragous claims towards their fire ratings. They didn't test their safes at all yet say they will hold up at 2300 deg for 60 min with a weak 1/2 in layer of ceramic with sheetrock.
 
safe opinion

I love all the info here. I was wondering what your opinion of the sportsman safes was? They have some tl rated safes or pretty close to. The also have some of the features i need like outside hinges and a 60 minute fire rating or more. I was hoping to get a safe 72x40x 28 or close to that. I have too many long rifles that need some height in a safe. I have also seen some very interesting safe locks that were fingerprint activated or called a biolock. what do you think of this lock? If my safe doesnt come with the biolock i want can i get it to work on my safe with info from lock make or something like that?
 
X.wolf;

Right now, I'd say bio-lock = problem. Great Falls MT. is a military town with a lot of Federal presence, to say the least. When the bio's first came out, a couple of Federal entities in town jumped on the bandwagon. They are no longer on the bandwagon & not at all anxious to buy another ticket.

Fire protection is not rocket science. If you put thicker and denser material between the heat source & what you want protected, you get better protection. Sheet metal & and sheet rock do not equal plate steel and concrete.

900F
 
Archery;

That feature, tear gas in particular, used to be fairly common on higher end commercial & banking safes. We still occasionally run across safes that have it when we're servicing or repairing them. However, it only takes one AD clearing a bank during business hours, for the customer to rapidly lose interest in retaining the device.

900F
 
Archery;

That feature, tear gas in particular, used to be fairly common on higher end commercial & banking safes. We still occasionally run across safes that have it when we're servicing or repairing them. However, it only takes one AD clearing a bank during business hours, for the customer to rapidly lose interest in retaining the device.

900F
Thanks for that info. I was not aware that those were in use.

I suppose it would be cheaper to have Otis Campbell around, sober, and full of baked beans.
 
I was wondering what your opinion of the sportsman safes was? They have some tl rated safes or pretty close to.

They do not sell anything anywhere close to a TL rated unit. A little searching around on the web will turn up horror stories about their products and customer service. Buyer beware.
 
If the total value of the safe's contents are in the $10,000 or less price range, and your paperwork is in quantities small enough to go into a small fire rated box, then a single gun safe would probably still work out for you.


Frank - can you recommend a fire box for this purpose?
 
Frank - can you recommend a fire box for this purpose?

Sentry. Inexpensive and readily available at any of your big box stores. They do use wet insulation, but their key locking boxes are encapsulated in plastic. Price ranges from $20 to $50 depending on size.
 
Sentry. Inexpensive and readily available at any of your big box stores. They do use wet insulation, but their key locking boxes are encapsulated in plastic. Price ranges from $20 to $50 depending on size.


Thanks. So w/ the plastic encapsulation, the wet insulation isn't an issue for guns?

(obviously I won't be storing guns in the Sentry, a couple documents would go in the Sentry which would be placed inside a gun safe that also contains guns)?
 
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