Best Lathe Style Case Trimmer?

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Triumph

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With power adapter option?

I'm thinking Forster because I understand the collet & depth stop.

Looking at pictures of Wilson I'm not sure how the case is held.

The universal chucking the Lyman is pretty neat.

If I remember correctly on Midway & other sites the Forster is most highly rated.
 
I have the Lyman with carbide cutter. I don't have the power adapter but can still breeze through cases more quickly than I thought I would be able to. The universal chuck makes it very easy to hold and release brass. So far it has been a great addition to my load bench. I've been through approx 400 pieces of brass from 38 special to 300 wby mag,I can't really speak as to longevity as of yet and can't say it's the best as I have not had others, but I have been very please with its ease of use. I typically get through about 100 rds in 10 min. +/- 2or 3 minutes. That includes sizing and deburring after set up. For the price I love it though I am sure you could do more faster with the more expensive powered trimmer stations.
 
I have forster's and I love it. The .223 and .308 even use the same collet, so only have to change the pilot between those setups.

I have the power adapter, but it is so simple and fast with the hand crank handle, I have never used it.

My reloading desk is an old hardwood office desk, and I mounted my trimmer to the left hand "cutting board" style slide out. I can take the whole plank out and take the trimmer with me or clamp it down somewhere else that way.
 
Yup, Forester is a great trimmer. I have two and use them both for trimming, inside reaming, and hollow-pointing. I think I got both of them with collets at an auction for about $20. I still smile when I think if how lucky that was!
 
I've had the Lyman since the '70s. A couple of years ago, I added the power adapter and use a cordless drill. It worked well before but it is great now. :D
 
Looking at pictures of Wilson I'm not sure how the case is held.

The L.E. Wilson trimmer uses a shell holder to hold the case. The shell holders are case specific.

The case is inserted in the case holder then the shell holder is clamped to the trimmer. The base of the case butts up against an adjustable stop and the cutter trims the case mouth.

Sinclair International makes a base for the trimmer that includes a clamp to hold the shell holder in place. The base can be bolted to the bench or C-clamped to the edge.

Sinclair also make a Shark Fin clamp handle, a power drive adapter, and a micrometer adjuster.

I find the hand crank for the cutter fast enough. A drill motor is too cumbersome in my opinion but others like it.

It is a good trimmer.
 
I like my Wilson.
The case holder is case specific sort of, 338 federal, 308 win, 7mm-08, 260 rem, 243 win. You get the drift, same with the -06 family.
 
I watched a few YouTube videos on Forster, Wilson & Lyman. It appears to me that the Wison is probably the most accurate but also the most complicated. On the Wilson it looks like you have to hold or clamp the case holder.

Sinclair International makes a base for the trimmer that includes a clamp to hold the shell holder in place. The base can be bolted to the bench or C-clamped to the edge.

Still up in the air on the three.

I guess with the Wison I'd need the Sinclair clamp base & a couple case holders (need 308 & 30-06 for the Garand)
 
On the Wilson it looks like you have to hold or clamp the case holder.
I clamp the Wilson trimmer to the table of a bench top drill press.
The Wilson trimmer works well for maintaining brass length, so I use it after every sizing. If you have a lot of length to trim the Wilson is not so good.
 
I have my single stage Lee mounted on a Lee Bench Plate Kit. I also have my Wilson case trimmer mounted on a blank, that fits the Bench Plate Kit. It's easy to use with a drill motor and have done 250+ .223 at one sitting. Works well, and is consistent with it's trims. I have my single stage Lee, The Wilson, and my Dillon Swage mounted on the plates so it's easy to change in, easy to change out.
 
trimmer

i have had my forester for over 10 year's and it has worked flawlessly ,i cant wear it out ! :)
 
I have a Forster and one from CH4D. I use the CH4D for my 308 since I want the cases to be perfect. I use the Forster for higher volumes of brass like for 357. The collet design on the Forster can change the trim length due to variations in the case head thickness. It's usually very minimal but it's still there. And if you're not paying attention you can easily not insert a case fully in the collet and take to much off.


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....The collet design on the Forster can change the trim length due to variations in the case head thickness. It's usually very minimal but it's still there. And if you're not paying attention you can easily not insert a case fully in the collet and take to much off.

I hear that once in a while and yet I've never experienced it....geeze....in 40 years of using the same Forster. Somebody's in too big a hurry. I fit the base into the collet, then slide pilot into the case until the cutter shaft stops, and THEN and only then do I tighten the collet.

These days I am a bit more impatient, using a progressive and all, so I added the 3-way cutter, a power adapter, and most importantly, mounted it vertically so that gravity (with help from a weight) drops the shaft tightly against the case. Accuracy has been nearly perfect...+/- .001"...good enough for my needs. In the video below, the pilot hung up for a second on a burr on one case, but obviously the collet wasn't tightened until it slipped in, and the shaft came down tight. That's about the worse problem I've seen. Pretty minor.


Click picture for a video of the Gravity-Fed Forster with a 3-way cutter....trims, chamfers, deburrs! Notice the smoothness of the tool. That's how a quality-machined tool gets accuracy....if the operator does his part. Wilsons are quality as well, but overrated for large batches of cases to do. If I bought one now that I load progressively, I'd be going backwards. They are too slow, even with a power adaptor, and not any more accurate IMO if you use undamaged brass. I don't load any other kind.
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I hear that once in a while and yet I've never experienced it....geeze....in 40 years of using the same Forster. Somebody's in too big a hurry. I fit the base into the collet, then slide pilot into the case until the cutter shaft stops, and THEN and only then do I tighten the collet.

These days I am a bit more impatient using a progressive and all, so I added the 3-way cutter, a power adapter, and most importantly, mounted it vertically so that gravity (with help from a weight) drops the shaft tightly against the case. Accuracy has been nearly perfect...+/- .001"...good enough for my needs. In the video below, the first case was about the worse problem I've seen. The pilot hung up for a second on a burr, but obviously the collet wasn't tightened finally until it slipped in, and the shaft came down tight.


Click picture for a video of the Gravity-Fed Forster with a 3-way cutter....trims, chamfers, deburrs! Notice the smoothness of the tool. That's how a quality-machined tool gets accuracy....if the operator does his part. Wilsons are quality as well, but overrated for large batches of cases to do. If I bought one now that I load progressively, I'd be going backwards. They are too slow and not any more accurate IMO if you use undamaged brass. I don't load any other kind.

Very Nice!! I would like to duplicate. Can you show me what you are using for weight and power on top? Also, do you have your vacuum turned on in the demo video?

Thanks Much
 
I have a very similar set up to the Forster, but use the RCBS 3 way trim head and can trim, chamfer and debur approximately 600 rds/ hr easily. A 3'way cut head the way to go for volume. I also have another tool with st l wool that works well for the inside of necks. The right tools make the process so much less tedious
 
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The Forster mounted vertically and a door knob added

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I put RCBS Trim Pro 3-Way Cutter in my Rockwell vertical mill.
I put a a shell holder in a Lee Lock stud. I put the stud in a Kurt vise mounted to the mill table. I put small needle nose vise grips on the shell holder.
I put a case in the shell holder.
I throw the vise grips.
I bring down the quill of the mill to trim the brass.
 
I've had the Lyman since the '70s. A couple of years ago, I added the power adapter and use a cordless drill. It worked well before but it is great now.

Same here, except for the 70's part. I also have a Giraud but still use the Lyman for small quantities and calibers that I don't have shellholders for on the Giraud. I also use the Lyman for .30 carbine and for cutting 9x19 Luger cases down to 9x18 Makarov.

I have a spot on my bench where I mount the Lyman with screws so it won't move, and I have an old, small Ryobi cordless drill that's perfect for driving the cutter shaft. I had to buy a separate shaft for my Lyman to use with a drill, perhaps now they have the option of removing the handle and using a drill? I don't know.
 
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