AKElroy
Member
Agreed, but we are talking a degree or so. Canting the scope that amount prior to tightening will fix it with a little luck.
Best mounts & rings for accurate deer rig??
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Agreed, but we are talking a degree or so. Canting the scope that amount prior to tightening will fix it with a little luck.
Uncle Mike
Member
I don't know of a ring that wont turn the scope during tightening....even the vertical split ones or the over center strap design.
Two words...Scope, and Level. Try a 'Scope Level'.
Two words...Scope, and Level. Try a 'Scope Level'.
scythefwd
Member
AB - I can get weaver bases and rings for about 25 round here. I prefer the millet angle lock rings though. They work with the weaver bases (all I have on my rifles right now) and they allow me to make up for slightly off machining. They allow adjustment to either side, not just one like the weavers. Time will tell how they old up, but they feel really solid. Of my scoped rifles, only one has any recoil worth mentioning, and it isn't bad... it's a .308.
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Uncle Mike
Member
Oh No!
Millett 'Mangle Locks'
Careful if you use these....we have a box full of bent scopes at the shop that fell prey to the dreaded mangle locks.....
Millett 'Mangle Locks' Careful if you use these....we have a box full of bent scopes at the shop that fell prey to the dreaded mangle locks.....
scythefwd
Member
Mike, I see the possibility for it, no doubt. To help avoid this, I mounted the scope in the rings first, then the rings to the bases. That way the rings were already lined up correctly before they went on the bases. I then tightened each side by quarter turns until I felt resistance. 1/8th turns after that, working on opposite sides of the rings, on separate bases when I did it. Bore sighted it on a light in the neighbors back yard and it is pretty much dead on. If I felt any resistance... I backed off. We'll see how it goes when I go to sight it in next month.... I may have bent my free scope.
That said, properly installed, they have a lot of potential to correct slightly misaligned bases and taps on arms.... improperly installed they have a lot of potential of junk heaping your scope. Reason #1 I used a freebie instead of a monarch or the likes. Also, wouldn't using a solid aluminum 1" dowel or 1" wooden dowel help you align the rings without running the risk of bending your scope?
How tight can you tighten the rings onto the scope? I don't want to mangle the body, but I don't want it coming loose either. The rings have 1/8th inch on either side of the scope from touching the other half. I felt resistance, but not a lot.
That said, properly installed, they have a lot of potential to correct slightly misaligned bases and taps on arms.... improperly installed they have a lot of potential of junk heaping your scope. Reason #1 I used a freebie instead of a monarch or the likes. Also, wouldn't using a solid aluminum 1" dowel or 1" wooden dowel help you align the rings without running the risk of bending your scope?
How tight can you tighten the rings onto the scope? I don't want to mangle the body, but I don't want it coming loose either. The rings have 1/8th inch on either side of the scope from touching the other half. I felt resistance, but not a lot.
Uncle Mike
Member
As with anything in life, if done correctly, your going to be fine. There are those who, for what ever reason, insist on leaving the rings tight in the bases on the front of the scope and 'adjusting' the rear ring.
Then they often buy a new scope!
Oh, 25 'INCH' pounds or so will hold your scope just fine...use no loc-tite on the ring screws, or any of the screws for that mater, unless you have a bastard screw hole.
Make sure you use I N C H pounds..... N O T Foot pounds!
Depending on the manufacture of the ring, the cap gap will vary. Try to get the gap even on both sides of the ring. Sounds like you did well, with the Angle Locks.
Then they often buy a new scope!
Oh, 25 'INCH' pounds or so will hold your scope just fine...use no loc-tite on the ring screws, or any of the screws for that mater, unless you have a bastard screw hole.
Make sure you use I N C H pounds..... N O T Foot pounds!
Depending on the manufacture of the ring, the cap gap will vary. Try to get the gap even on both sides of the ring. Sounds like you did well, with the Angle Locks.
scythefwd
Member
Thanks, I was very worried about bending even the free scope (don't have another to throw on it yet) so I tried to puzzle out all the pitfalls before I went at it. I was considering putting threadlock on the base screws, but they were tight so I left them alone. It is the low strength Threadlocker purple. Way easier to break than locktight.
Oh, I did loosen up the top strap of the rings after I was satisfied with the alignment/hold of the rings on the bases. I had to level the scope after that as I had it a bit canted when I put the rings on the scope without a rifle to use as a reference.
Oh, I did loosen up the top strap of the rings after I was satisfied with the alignment/hold of the rings on the bases. I had to level the scope after that as I had it a bit canted when I put the rings on the scope without a rifle to use as a reference.
CH47gunner
Member
But you did say the best.
Pay the extra & get the Ken Farrell one piece mount (JMO).
My Savage is a short action, a 10FP in .308. I shopped around alot before I decided on the Ken Farrell mount - and it comes highly recommended on the Savage Shooters site. I went with the Steel 15MOA mount and a set of steel Warne Maxima QD rings. I do like the vertical split rings and use the Warne rings whenever I can.
This is an absolute bullet-proof set-up.
Here's a pic of the mount/rings/scope.
Bruce
Pay the extra & get the Ken Farrell one piece mount (JMO).
My Savage is a short action, a 10FP in .308. I shopped around alot before I decided on the Ken Farrell mount - and it comes highly recommended on the Savage Shooters site. I went with the Steel 15MOA mount and a set of steel Warne Maxima QD rings. I do like the vertical split rings and use the Warne rings whenever I can.
This is an absolute bullet-proof set-up.
Here's a pic of the mount/rings/scope.
Bruce
Bag the Weavers. IME, they won't hold torque. TPS rings will tighten without turning your scope.
I think Warne is a good ring.
A one piece picatinney base bedded to your action properly, can do a lot to eliminate ring alignment problems.
Torque in general is like 15 in lbs for ring screws. 15 in lbs for base screws. 30 - 50 in lbs for proper cross bolts.
I think Warne is a good ring.
A one piece picatinney base bedded to your action properly, can do a lot to eliminate ring alignment problems.
Torque in general is like 15 in lbs for ring screws. 15 in lbs for base screws. 30 - 50 in lbs for proper cross bolts.
Offfhand
Member.
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Though in no way comparing with the sublime elegance of the system illustrated by MJ (above post) the Talley rings look pretty nice on any rifle and hold secure even with big caliber rifles. Attached are Talley rings on a custom built rib on one of my SS rifles. The rings were niter blued, you'll notice, giving them an even richer and deeper finish.
Attachments
AKElroy
Member
WELL--I listened to some advice--
UPDATE--Well, I got the bid on a Savage 16 FLHSS .308, Accustock &
Accutrigger. 22" Tube, 1/10 Twist. I have the afformentioned Nikon Prostaff 3X9X40 BDC, and settled on the DNZ Game Reaper 1-piece mounts/rings. I will post pics once all is received, bolted together & range tested.
UPDATE--Well, I got the bid on a Savage 16 FLHSS .308, Accustock &
Accutrigger. 22" Tube, 1/10 Twist. I have the afformentioned Nikon Prostaff 3X9X40 BDC, and settled on the DNZ Game Reaper 1-piece mounts/rings. I will post pics once all is received, bolted together & range tested.
R.W.Dale
Member
I think you will be very pleased with your decision
7.62x54mmR
Member
Personally i would take a .308 with a 3x-9x, 40mm.
desidog
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Guess i'm a little late for the OP...but here are my general thoughts, not covered yet:
1. i think steel is much better than aluminum, although slightly heavier.
2. I'm continually amazed by the amount of people, especially slinging products on TV, who have their scope mounted way too high to get a proper cheek weld. If your jaw/cheek doesn't touch the butt at all when you're looking down the scope...you're really handicapping yourself. Also, the farther your sight-axis from the barrel axis...same thing.
1. i think steel is much better than aluminum, although slightly heavier.
2. I'm continually amazed by the amount of people, especially slinging products on TV, who have their scope mounted way too high to get a proper cheek weld. If your jaw/cheek doesn't touch the butt at all when you're looking down the scope...you're really handicapping yourself. Also, the farther your sight-axis from the barrel axis...same thing.
AKElroy
Member
I received the DNZ mount yesterday; looks very well made. The rifle is still a week out; every high-volume GB seller is at the Shot Show in Vegas, so my shipping is delayed. I hate waiting; not a strong suit for me.
berettashotgun
Member
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You will like the DNZ stuff. It is nice.
I wish Talley would camo some stuff.
Uncle Mike - I've had angle locks on my hunting rifle for years - the Millet angle lock rings seem to work great for me. I think they are a little ugly - but to hold a zero for 8 years; pretty damn good.
I've switched to Talley after the 375 RUM beat the snot out of some Leupold rings. But, Leupold did make it right.
Just a lot easier to get 30mm offset rings ordered - just by talking to Talley.
Talley customer service is excellent.
I wish Talley would camo some stuff.
Uncle Mike - I've had angle locks on my hunting rifle for years - the Millet angle lock rings seem to work great for me. I think they are a little ugly - but to hold a zero for 8 years; pretty damn good.
I've switched to Talley after the 375 RUM beat the snot out of some Leupold rings. But, Leupold did make it right.
Just a lot easier to get 30mm offset rings ordered - just by talking to Talley.
Talley customer service is excellent.
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desidog,
This is exactly what I was going to say. Most people do not understand that mounting a scope too high is a HUGE detriment to shootability and potential accuracy. About 80 to 90% of the rifles I see in the field have their scopes mounted too high.
Steel is always the correct choice for bases and rings.
Which brings us to Talley rings and bases. They are steel, they are tough they are dependable, and they are without exception WAY to high. I have no idea why Dave doesn't offer some lower bases and rings to go with his otherwise exceptional design?
Stuff like this makes me CRAZY!:banghead:
Art Eatman
Moderator In Memoriam
Since the decision has been made, we can now wait for his test results...
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