Best value .300 Blackout upper to use with a Suppressor?

[Aim1]

I have a new Sig SRD762Ti in 7.62 that I want to use this summer. I have an older SW MPX in 5.56. I'd like to get a .300 Blackout upper for it to use with the new suppressor. I was going to buy a new AR but this is far cheaper I hope. I want an upper that is easy to get my hands on. I don't want one that I'll have to wait months for or that will be hard to order.

What brand and model is what I'm looking for. Also where to order it from.

I don't know if it should be piston or gas but I'm assuming piston system? I also don't want a lot of gas blowback in my face, is a piston also better for this?


Best value .300 Blackout upper to use with a Suppressor?

 

[adcoch1]

Go normal pistol gas system for a carbine upper, psa has a few options... Sorry i re read your OP, a carbine gas system should work fine with the suppressor.

 

[Elkins45]

If you're wanting to shoot subsonic, a pistol length gas system will give you the most flexibility.

I don't have any personal experience with piston systems, but as a lefty I would love anything that helps keep the gas out of my face.

 

[SamT1]

I have a couple from radical firearms, I bought through primary arms. They both function flawlessly with a suppressor and without. One is a pistol length in 10.5 and the other is a mid length in 16". I've yet to have a load that I try not cycle either reliably.
They are very cheap.

 

[DeadEye9]

I got out of .300 BLK and 7.62x39 about a year ago because I just don't like the way the cartridges shoot and they don't have a purpose in any of my systems currently. Before this though I built two nice .300 ARs using assembled uppers from Daytona Tactical, one of which I ran corked with an AAC can. These are sub $300 uppers but come with a keymod rail, are milspec design and good quality. The Radical uppers seem to be good also from what I've seen. In any event, if your getting into .300 BLK for the first time and plan on shooting at any distance, be sure to brush up on your fundamentals for doping the rifle. With a cartridge that drops as much as .300 your going to need that DOPE. My BEST performing handloads would max out the adjustment on my optic for drop inside of 300yds.

 

[LoonWulf]

Ive got got/had a couple Radical uppers I'd recommend them. My AAC tho i built myself on a side charging upper. Carbine gas length i had issues with because used the same lower for my 6.5g and .458, which i was running with a heavier buffer and spring. The side charging upper was so i could play with subs, sans can, and load them with powders that wouldnt cycle the action.

My AAC Ruger American has a Bushnell shotgun scope on it with a balistic reticle, it helps lob rounds in on target.

 

[wally]

With a cartridge that drops as much as .300 your going to need that DOPE. My BEST performing handloads would max out the adjustment on my optic for drop inside of 300yds.

I don't know what optic you were using but they make them with .300BLK and 7.62x39 BDC reticles. I put a 5X Burris AR-536 on my 7.62x39 CMMG Mutant rifle. Despite the BDC being designed for 5.56/.308, with a 50 yard zero it was about 1.5" high at 100 yards and pretty much dead on at 200 yards. At 300 yards using the 400 yard BDC marker was pretty much dead on. Two different shooters had no trouble ringing steel plates at 100, 200, & 300 yards -- with cheap Wolf FMJ ammo which is maybe 2 moa at best, nobody was missing 4 moa sized plates.

A mildot reticle scope and a ballistics calculator app for your cell phone should get you in business quickly. I'd agree they are marginally useful much beyond 300 yards, but its pretty much a dead-on hold out to about to 225 yards +/- about 3" drop.

The .300 blk sub-sonic is basically a handgun round, the only thing it really brings to the table is bullets with much better ballistics coefficients than handgun loads, which will stretch out the effective range a bit, but 2-300 yards will be rainbows.

 

[Aim1]

Thanks guys.

 

[bangswitch]

I shoot 300 yd silhouettes using a 1x red dot and just hold over to compensate for the 100 yd zero. No big deal. My 300 yd loads are 155 SMK Palmas with 21 grains A1680. I don't claim the .300BLK to be great at that range, but 200 yds and under, it's a kick-ass cartridge with anything from 110 to 155 grain.

And shooting 200 grain subs at greater than 100 yds is like using a quarter horse to run the Belmont Stakes.

 

[UhKlem]

I have a new Sig SRD762Ti in 7.62 that I want to use this summer. I have an older SW MPX in 5.56. I'd like to get a .300 Blackout upper for it to use with the new suppressor. I was going to buy a new AR but this is far cheaper I hope. I want an upper that is easy to get my hands on. I don't want one that I'll have to wait months for or that will be hard to order.

What brand and model is what I'm looking for. Also where to order it from.

I don't know if it should be piston or gas but I'm assuming piston system? I also don't want a lot of gas blowback in my face, is a piston also better for this?


Best value .300 Blackout upper to use with a Suppressor?

Palmetto State Armory (PSA) has some fine 300BO uppers at reasonable prices when on sale. You likely don't want piston uppers for quiet suppressed shooting as the Pistons release higher pressure noisier gas near the muzzle than the lower pressure gas from the action of DI ARs. Piston uppers are usually expensive, proprietary, and harder to tune. Also you likely will want pistol length gas system if you ever plan to shoot subsonic rounds. Heavy subsonics (240 grain) benefit from 1:7 twist barrels but the 208 HDY seem to do fine in 1:8. If you mostly shoot near sea level then 1:7 is safest twist for all subsonic. Both piston or DI will be gassy compared to unsuppressed as the suppressor is still pressurized when the breech opens and most of the gas shooter experiences is from suppressor blowback through the chamber after case extraction. Many barrels aren't properly threaded with a thread relief and flat shoulder for the can to securely index against. If you use a proprietary FH or brake mount make sure not to use crush washer and make sure muzzle device or shim stack seats fully against barrel shoulder. Then use a gauge rod to make sure can mounts reasonably concentric to avoid baffle or End cap strike. A 0.298 drill rod works fine but Geiselle and CNC Warrior sell dedicated concentricity gauge rods. If this is for hunting with supersonic loads only a 16" carbine gas 300BO will be fine but could be sketchy functioning with subsonics compared to pistol length gas system. My 16" carbine gas with suppressor will eject subsonics loaded with AA1680 but won't pick up the next round. I mainly use it for longer distance (200+) with supersonic loads. Any barrel can have the gas port enlarged and an adjustable gas block swapped in for fine tuning. If you like the cartridge consider building yourself a pistol lower if you don't have or want an SBR. The cartridge does great in 8.5-10.5 inch barrels and you'll appreciate the can on a shorter barrel. The cartridge is great for reloaders.