Best way to clean a carbide resizing die

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ChasMack

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I bought a used die set and loaded a few rounds but the resizing die left scratches on the brass. What is the best way to clean these? I have tried but so far it still scratches.
 
Just cleaning, I spray brake cleaner in the dies and swab out with a Q-tip. If the dies are scratched, they are scratched.
 
Try a piece of 400/600 wet/dry paper(wet with oil) on a split dowel rod in your cordless drill .... the scratches are probably built up brass .... if it is not the built up brass ... the paper will not hurt the carbide ... unless you go crazy with it ... then wash it all good with carb cleaner again...
 
Diamond paste is about the only way to polish carbide. Patch on a split dowell.
 
It's nearly impossible to scratch a carbide, not impossible, but very, very unlikely. What I would is grab a magnifying glass, a bright light, some black ink or some type of dye. Die the carbide ring, wipe off the excess, then look for a fracture line using the magnifying glass.

Although carbide rings are extremely hard, they are also extremely brittle. If you bump them off the die too hard, as in cam over, there is a risk of fracturing them.

I fractured a 9mm die years ago. I was unaware of the above warning.

GS
 
See post #3.
That is the way you do it!!!

Galled brass specs stuck to the carbide is the only thing it can be.

You can't scratch carbide with anything softer then a diamond.

So it isn't scratched.

It is galled brass stuck to it.

And emery paper in a drill will clean it right out.

rc
 
I used a RCBS 45ACP carbide die for years... started noticing scratches, cleaned the die to perfection... still scratched, finally took a good look at die with a magnifying glass... sure enough the carbide ring was all spider cracked, replace it and life was good
 
had a carbide 45 ACP die that kept scratching the cases, cleaned it, cleaned it... still scratched... finally took a look with a magnifying glass... the carbide ring was all spider cracked.. replaced it and all was good
 
I had one not too long ago, an RCBS .357/38, that was scratching also. In that instance, it had a heavy build up of brass from some new unfired IMI brass. I cleaned it with some 0000 steel wool and solvent, problem solved. This was the one and only time I've ever needed to lubed handgun brass, which solved the galling issue with new IMI brass. I could feel it dragging when I ran it through the die. BTW, I don't normally resized new brass, but this stuff was pretty banged up from shipping and handling, or more appropriately, shipping and dropping.

So I think either it's fractured, or galled. There's not much else that can go wrong with a carbide die. BTW, fractures can be difficult to see without taking a real close look with a magnifying glass, as Oldgreyguy and I have done.

GS
 
It isn't that hard to take the die fully apart. From there you'll likely find that it has some galled on brass or similar contamination. A wipe with some penetrating oil or even gun cleaning solvent, wait for a few minutes and then swipe it thru with a bore cleaning brush will likely remove the flecks that are stuck on.

It is also possible that what you have isn't a carbide die. I assumed incorrectly that they were ALL carbide these days. But only some are actually fitted with a carbide insert.
 
So true BCRider, we've all just assumed he bought carbide dies, after all they are used and may not be carbide. Good point.

Disassemble the resizing die, and if carbide, you will see the carbide insert / ring. Other wise, if it's just one single machined surface inside, it's a standard steel die.

GS
 
I had a stuck case in the .223 die and managed the scratch the wall of the die. I used a chamber brush on a drill with bore paste to clean it up. It did a pretty good job but it still left a small mark on the brass. I used it that way for a long time. I ended up buying a different die here recently.
 
My 45ACP die was doing that once. I did the before mentioned trick of using 0000 steel wool and a solvent. I think that I used kroil, actually... I disassembled the die. I let the kroil soak in for a little bit, and then crammed in the steel wool and twist polished it. Afterwords, I cleaned all the oil off, and it's been fine since.
 
For more than 30 years I used Kroil and/or kerosene on a cotton pad that was tightly wrapped around a brush head - Always worked for me. Sometimes I'd let a die set soak overnight before wiping them out. The fellow who bought my reloading equipment said that it all seemed to be in perfect condition. (He was correct!)
 
when I was working as a machinist we used the cleanser mon ami it has been so long ago I forgot how to spell it. it was for cleaning the sink. the claim on the package ''it hasn't scratched yet'' little water make a paste spin die in lathe
 
Yep, Bon Ami, been using that stuff for more than 45 years for just about everything, polishing chrome, cleaning the sink, good stuff.

GS
 
I use a professional degreaser and then a small piece of white Scotch-Brite pad. Won't harm the surface of the delicate parts. Then one more blast of the degreaser to let the loose particles wash away. Remove any 0-rings or painted parts prior to using this stuff. It will brake down some paints. Use this stuff outside if you can!

CRC Industrial Heavy Duty Degreaser.

Scotch-Brite(TM) Light Cleansing Pad 7445, Aluminum Silicate, 9" Length x 6" Width, White (Amazon)
 
I use CLP mainly to remove cast bullet lube that builds up over time in the seating die. I wish I could find the white Scotch brite pads around here. I haven't seen any for years. Those pads will remove lead from a revolver cylinder and not remove the bluing. I didn't believe it until I tried it. Once you seriously scratch a size die or get something harder than brass embedded in it you'll have a tough time getting it out without damaging or altering the dia. of the carbide ring. Keep your brass clean and polished.
 
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