BHP - What spare parts should I get?

[danez71]

The gun is a BHP MK3 from around 1993/94 that still runs great. However.......

I'm wanting to buy some spare parts to have on hand. Something like a good 'service and repair pack'.


What parts would be good to have as far as springs, extractors, firing pins etc?

Are any of them parts that may be better to be fitted that, if I couldn't get to a gun smith, I may screw up a few thru trial and error?

 

[drband]

Firing pin stop. It will eventually crack if you shoot often enough.
Easy to replace with little or no fitting.

 

[Sistema1927]

An extra set of springs:
http://bhspringsolutions.com/14-hipower-spring-kits

 

[BBBBill]

The gun is a BHP MK3...
I'm wanting to buy some spare parts to have on hand...
What parts would be good to have as far as springs, extractors, firing pins etc?
Are any of them parts that may be better to be fitted that, if I couldn't get to a gun smith, I may screw up a few thru trial and error

What you listed as well as the above mentioned firing pin stop are the basics. Few aftermarket parts are available as compared to the 1911 - hammers, sears, triggers, thumb safeties and firing pin stops. Of those the two that I prefer over stock parts specifically for durability/longevity are the sear and firing pin stop. High quality parts are available from EGW, C&S, and Chuck Warner. The aftermarket sears are harder and also provide for a much cleaner, more durable precision trigger job if you want to go that way. The hammers are nice, too, if you prefer a smaller ring over the stock spur/ring hammers, but the stock hammers seem to hold up much better than the sears when subjected to lots of shooting. The sear, firing pin stop, and extractor will need fitting. Hammer, too, if you choose to go that way. The firing pin stop will often install with no fitting, but it is easy to make the minor adjustments to it if needed. The extractor will possibly need the pad behind the hook fit to set the hook depth of engagement and the hook may need minor cleanup/polish. The most difficult one to fit is the sear. The most critical for safe operation is the sear and hammer. The thumb safety will have to be checked and probably refit if the sear and/or hammer is replaced and it, too, is a critical fit component. I prefer the current factory thumb safety over any aftermarket part. The C&S was good for its time, but the current factory part has surpassed it.

None of them are impossible for someone with good mechanical skills and comprehension to fit. However, if you do not feel competent to do it certainly contact someone well versed in the High Power to do it for you.

 

[danez71]

Thanks for the help. I have a few more questions.

Consolidating from the posts above and adding the below from Mr. Camp.

Springs - (I'll base which springs off of http://bhspringsolutions.com/72-browningfn-hi-power-mark-iii-1988-present - Thanks Sistema1927)
Extractor (and springs)
Ejector
Sear
Firing Pin (and spring)
Firing pin stop - Is this the same as the 'firing Pin Retaining Plate' listed below?
Firing Pin Retaining Plates
Roll Pins
Grip Screws
Hammer?
Safety Lever?
I'm not sure if a hammer and safety and being recommended in addition to a sear or not? after reading BBBBill post and http://www.hipowersandhandguns.com/BHPHammerSafetyProblems.htm

Anyone care to put these in order of priority I should get?



I'm pretty mechanical minded but I would 1st opt for a gunsmith for any fitting needed if possible. I may pick up a couple spares of the fitted items just in case and pick up the book and guide by My Camp as well just in case.

Stephen Camp wrote the following here.
http://hipowers-handguns.blogspot.com/2008/09/what-hi-power-parts-for-emergency-spare.html

Firing Pin Retaining Plates: (If these crack, it is usually at the 7 o' clock position when looking at the plate from the rear.)

Extractors and extractor springs: (The Hi Power requires a strong extractor spring. Usually when I've seen one with extraction problems, simply replacing the spring has solved the problem. I prefer the extra-strength extractor springs from Wolff.)

Firing Pins: (I've not had these break but do have a couple on hand should that occur.)

Recoil Springs: Changing these out is essential in Hi Powers that are shot very much. I change mine about every 2K to 2500 shots. The Hi Powers I've seen that had damaged, rounded lugs always had extremely weak recoil springs.

Ejector: (I have not seen any of these break, but if one should, it would be nice to have a spare.)

Grip Screws: These can be lost or damaged.

Spare Roll Pins: for extractor and sear lever (If you have a Hi Power having the factory extended ambidextrous thumb safety, you might want a spare roll pin or two for it, too.)

 

[drband]

Firing pin retaining plate=firing pin stop

On a 1911 it's called a firing pin stop so most folks call it that name.

I do note that cylinder & slide has released a new billet machined firing pin stop. It's pricey ($29) compared to the factory MIM part but I bet it's less likely to crack. FYI.

 

[BBBBill]

Hammers seldom fail. A new aftermarket sear will usually have more than enough material to fit to your safety, however it is prudent to consider the possibility that you might come up short with some combinations. I have successfully added material to the foot of the sear at the point of engagement with the safety on a few occasions before the new aftermarket sears became available. I have used Hi-Force 44 solder (to attach a small piece of steel)and TIG with the sear protected by heat control paste. This saved the existing sear and safety for use. All are still running after many years. Why do that instead of building up the safety? Sometimes the clearance through the frame window is already close and adding material to the safety would have required opening that window. Won't happen in all cases, but it is a point of consideration.

 

[Fuego]

Most of the parts I have ever needed did not come from weapons malfunctions. They came from losing parts in disassembly. Assume your BHP will run forever. What parts are you most likely to lose?
Do a complete strip down over a shag carpet to find out, and order two of each.