A good, sharp diamond awl makes all the difference in the world. Keep it sharp and it will glide through the leather.
Sometimes my fingers get sore from stitching but the only cramping I get is when I'm doing a lot of stamping.
Do you all typically stamp and wet form before you assemble?
Here's the order in which I build a holster. Obviously, there's more than one way to skin a cat and some folks do it differently.
1. Create the pattern. I either draw up a pattern from scratch, or create it from another. Either way, I draw it up on manila folders by laying the gun lengthways along the fold, sights down. I carefully roll it over to one side and do a tracing. When I cut out the pattern, I fold it first and cut the bottom and both mainseam edges at the same time.
2. I lay out the pattern onto the leather and cut a slightly oversized piece from the hide. Reason being, even with a large cutting board (24x36), it's easier to cut out the pattern from a smaller piece.
3. Trace the pattern and cut it out. I use a red ink pen for this because if ink gets anywhere on the finished piece, it will be covered up by the color. I do my pattern cutting with a trim knife, utilizing a rotary cutter for any straight edges.
4. Bevel the edges that need beveling. I do not bevel the edges where the mainseam will be glued and sewn together. I prefer a bissonnette style edger.
5. Case the leather, wetting it on both sides and letting it dry for a few minutes, until the surface starts to dry. Our tap water has a high chlorine content so I use bottled water.
6. Cut all my stitching grooves, both sides. I cut my grooves approximately 3/16" from the edges. This will result in the stitch line being about 1/8" from the finished edge.
7. I proceed with any line work and stamping. I frame out my border stamping with the stitch groover. Depending on the pattern and level of embellishment, I may cut several grooves on the holster. Using a freehand groover with stainless ruler as a straight edge for the inside border along the fold.
8. Add the maker's mark, stamp the make, model and year.
9. Mark the main seam with the overstitch wheel.
10. Cut my grooves and punch all the holes for the belt loop. Including the holes where it is stitched to the pouch.
11. Cut stitching grooves on the inside of the pouch where the belt loop will be sewn on. Some of this can be done with a straight edge but most is free-handed. This protects the threads from abrasion during holstering.
12. If it is to have a retention strap, I cut the hole in the belt loop with a bag punch and stitch it into place at this time.
13. Most my holsters have at least a partial welt. At this time I cut it out and glue it in place onto the front side.
14. Punch holes for mainseam on the front side only, including welt.
15. After the glue dries I dye and completely finish the inside. I put one coat of dye on the outside so that it colors evenly under and around the belt loop. I also slick the appropriate edges at this time.
16. Stitch the belt loop into place.
17. Glue the mainseam being extremely careful not to get glue where it doesn't belong.
18. Punch holes for the mainseam from the front side to the back. Being careful to align the backside holes with the stitching groove. This is where a good sharp awl really pays for itself. Sharp = slow and careful penetration.
19. Stitch the mainseam. I back stitch both ends three or four stitches, starting at the throat and ending at the toe. Cutting the thread off on the back side only.
20. I use a bench sander to sand my mainseam edges smooth and even. Which also removes any glue that ran out.
21. Bevel the edges of the mainseam one last time.
22. Apply dye until desired color is achieved. Usually one or two more coats. When the holster is good and wet the last time, I wet form it with the firearm (or dummy) it was fitted for in a 1gal ziplock bag. Allowing it to dry overnight.
23. Apply one or two coats of extra virgin olive oil, allowing it to completely soak in.
24. Apply gun tragacanth. Slick the edges again, paying particular attention to getting the mainseam as close to perfect as possible. I do not use edge paint. As the gum trag is drying but still slightly damp, I start buffing with a denim remnant. Leather will polish to a nice luster when it's slightly damp. I may also do this while it's wet forming.
25. I use either Bag Cote or Tandy's Professional finish and buff a final time.
26. I take pics and ship it to whatever lucky SOB ordered it.