Biting the 300BLK Bullet

[Olympus]

I'm thinking about getting into the 300BLK after dragging my feet for all this time. Honestly, getting one last suppressor on my current trust before 41P/F takes effective is my mail goal and I might as well make it a 45 caliber suppressor with 300BLK compatability. So all that aside, I need reloading advice for the 300. I literally have thousands and thousands of 223 brass that I can cut and reform into 300 brass.

My question is what are the most economical bullets for range plinking, both super and subsonic? Can the Missouri Bullet Co lead and coated bullets be used subsonic with a suppressor? And what are the most economical powders for 300BLK? This will primarily be used in an AR.

 

[SCC]

Others will chime in with more info once we know if you're going with a bolt action or an AR. Just to start, for supers you can get jacketed bullets for as little as 16-17 cents. I use 147gr M80s and when on sale the 130gr SOST. My least expensive sub uses a 175gr M118 that can be had for around 23 cents and will cycle my AR. My bolt gun likes 'em too, along with the Hornady 225gr at about 32 cents. Lead/coated bullets can be cheaper. I'm sticking with jacketed to minimize contamination of the suppressor. Much more powder choices with a bolt action, for most ARs the popular ones are H110, A1680 and I4227.

 

[Olympus]

It will be an AR primarily.

 

[Paddy]

I'm definitely no expert but one thing I can suggest is getting a Sheridan case gauge for double checking everything. They are the best of that type of tool IMO.

Also, I found that when doing the initial reform from the 223 case that I would need to "double tap" the resize stroke, and I rotate the case about 180° between strokes. That seemed to get a ,ore consistent reform for me personally.

I use Redding dies for that cartridge.

Also, for coal you need to measure your bullet and find where it measures .250". Mark this point and seat the bullet so this point is directly over the magazine "bump". Otherwise they will not stack properly in the mags.

 

[jmorris]

It was better when they gave away 1000 bullets but I have a bunch from buying and selling LNL's, 150gn JSP.

I have used powders as fast as HS-7 and as slow as 1680. I like 2400 and H110.

Cast and coated are cheap, almost free if you cast and coat your own.

I made this contraption for cutting down .223.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iNXz97yWp2w

And size/trim with a GSI tool head and die with a Dillon motor (300 blk setup on left).



The Lee die in that tool head won't form them right by itself but the GSI die does. Oddly enough the Lee die will resize them correctly, just won't form them the first time right...

 

[Olympus]

My initial thought is cut, reform/resize, and trim on a single stage. Then run the sized and deprimed cases through my Dillon 550.

 

[NeuseRvrRat]

jmorris, that contraption you made is awesome. What did you use for the cutter blade?

 

[jmorris]

I used a .025" HHS slitting saw blade.

 

[dh1633pm]

Nice contraption. I went the way of the Harbor Fright Mini Saw and a jig. I have converted a bunch. My Co-Ax does a good job on the resize. Favorite powder is H110 and a 150 grain bullet. I don't have an AR so I load mine a little longer for my Model 7 AAC Blackout.

 

[azureoval]

Speer TNT 125 gr are great supersonic bullets and are a good deal in the 500 pack.
H110 is my go to powder.

 

[rg1]

I prefer all LC brass to convert. I like Hornady's 110 V-Max for supersonic but do load Nosler 125 BT's in case I ever hunt with my Blackouts. I use RP 7 1/2 primers and H110/Win 296 powder. My cheap supersonic load is 16.5 grains of H110 with surplus and new M80 147 FMJ's. Others say H110 for supers up to 150 grains but often recommend Lil-Gun for heavier bullet super loads. Most recommended subsonic powder is AA 1680. I've only recently got my suppressor and only one trip to the range. Seems that with 208 A-Max I have to go above sub-sonic to cycle my rifle?? Haven't done any chrono work yet. I've bought some Sierra 220 gr. to test for subsonic loads. They say the heavier bullets are easier to get to reliably cycle AR's and stay subsonic. Will find out in a couple months when spring arrives. Haven't used any coated lead and probably never will.

 

[ssyoumans]

Speer TNT 125 gr are great supersonic bullets and are a good deal in the 500 pack.
H110 is my go to powder.

What he said. Really good deal, and flat shooters for 300 BLK.
I don't care for the short 110gr bullets, Vmaxs are ok though but $$$
I shoot a good bit of the 147gr surplus bullets too, again using H110.
For subs in an AR, I suggest getting some AA1680. It is the best powder for subs in an AR. You'll likely need 175gr or higher to cycle subsonic. I bought Nosler 220gr blems and seem to like them.

 

[Olympus]

Any reason why everyone isn't trying the Missouri Bullet Company lead and coated bullets for subsonic loads?

 

[yugorpk]

H110 works great with 208-225 grain subs and for supersonic 147-150 grains. 1680 is the go to powder but 4227 and 4198 work just as well.

I started out cutting my own 223 and did probably a thousand before I found a guy selling 1000 made on a dillon for $100 shipped then I thought about what my time was worth and bagged that conversion process. Now Ive got probably 8000 shells with 5000 or so loaded on the shelf and components to make another 5K. I shoot a lot of that stuff. My favorite caliber by far.

I prefer redding dies and load it with a Hornady LnL progressive but I do use a Lee FCD to finish.

 

[Jesse Heywood]

I haven't tried subsonic. Have had good success with 125 & 150 gr. 4227 works great. For more info 300 blackout talk. I know someone has been buying the MBC bullets, just not me.

 

[oldpapps]

most economical bullets for range plinking, both super and subsonic

Simple, cast bullets.

I cast and powder coat for my 300Black. I don't do subs, but they too would be least costly.

I use a hard alloy that I mixed back in the early 1980's for use in .44 Mags and it is about an 18 on the scale. I don't have a way to determine a cost factor for it. I use the 'shake-n-bake' coating process and the per bullet amount of dry powder is so small, I can't calculate a per bullet cost.

Not including all of the hardware costs, I set my per bullet cost at time. Retired with way more time than money, I just get tired.

With my eyes, my bullets are good enough. This fall's deer season, rifle season, I know that one 130 grain hard cast and powder coated bullet, sized to .3115 inches, being pushed at about 2124 FPS when hitting just in front of the right shoulder, angling toward the left hind quarter, just nipping the shoulder bone/joint will put the stops on a 130/140 pound doe in steps. Range about 75 to 78 yards. The bullet was not recovered.

That is my chosen bullet.

I have used 296/H110, Olin 630, 2400 and lt'gun with good results. I tend to use more of the latter two. I do like the old 630 for the best accuracy but my supply is very, very limited.

I recycle my old .223/5.56 brass and many recycled cases go 25 and more reloading cycles as 300 Blackouts. Most are retired because of loose primer pockets.
I have tired both annealing and not and the general view I have is the brass lasts longer, a little. Is it worth doing, that is up in the air for now.

Have fun with a neat round.

 

[guns3738]

I realy like "lil gun" and imr 2227 for 300blk. I use Hornaday 168gr bthp for presice shooting and for cheep plinking i use 150gr interlock sp or cast 180gr round nose

 

[mavracer]

Speer TNT 125 gr are great supersonic bullets and are a good deal in the 500 pack.
H110 is my go to powder.

yep that's my recipe, or at least it will be after I burn through all the AA5744 I got.

 

[jmorris]

Any reason why everyone isn't trying the Missouri Bullet Company lead and coated bullets

I cast and coat my own.