Bought loading equip, what did I forget

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JBrady555

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Hello highroaders I decided to start reloading on the cheap with a 9mm Lee Loader. If I like it, which I know I will, I'll upgrade later to a press. I'm gonna list my equipment below with hopes that you guys will let me know what else I may need that I over looked. Usage tips for my equipment selections would be appreciated also. Here is my set up:

9mm lee loader
Lee 9mm case length gauge with holder
Lee primer pocket cleaner
Lee powder funnel
Lee chamfer tool
Lee cutter and lock stud
Lee powder measure scoop kit
Frankford arsenal bullet puller
Frankford arsenal tumbler

This is what I have so far. I'm going to buy a nice mallet locally and I'm gonna have a local competition shooter help me with a nice light load based on what powders are available locally. I've already picked up 500 cci #500 small pistol primers and I'm gonna bulk buy some FMJ bullets from one of the online suppliers, recommendations? Any tips based on my equipment selections would be helpful, thanks in advance.

PS as I was writing this I realize that I need a digital caliper.
 
I would say at least 2-3 manuals. Lyman's 49th and either the Hornady and/or Sierra manual/s.

A scale is needed as well in order to weigh your powder chargers.

The other one I was going to mention, you mentioned in your edit.
 
Is there not enough load info available on the manufacturers websites to start loading without the manuals? Those books are expensive, I wAnted to make sure that I enjoyed reloading before spending anymore cash.
 
r...ecommendations? Any tips based on my equipment selections would be helpful, thanks in advance.

Along with Lyman 49, you have a good start. Welcome to the reloading hobby.

After thirty years of reloading, I still buy new reloading stuff to try and learn with.

(But I am a gadget guy.:))

Enjoy and be safe.
 
Other than a good scale, manuals are the most important item. You can not learn reloading from the internet. Manuals are not just load data. The information in the beginning is very important to understand what you are doing. Cutting corners "on the cheap" is not a way to learn any hobby especially a potentially dangerous one.

Forget getting a cheap electronic scale, get a good balance beam scale. The case trimming stuff is a waste of money as you do not need to trim 9mm brass.
 
Absolutely need a set of scales ( balance beam or electronic) I use both. Electronic for quick & low precision stuff like weighing cases, quick checks of powder drops; balance beam when I really want to be precise or to check the electronic. Your Lee dippers, or any powder measure, will depend somewhat on technique ( how you smooth out the dipper, how hard you pull the handle on a measure, etc.). You need a decent scale to get your technique correct & consistent enough to drop the correct powder charge consistently.
For 9 mm or most any straight wall handgun ammo, you will not likely need a case trimmer, or case length gauge right away - I seldom if ever trim my pistol brass. It is generally within spec and will not lengthen much with shooting like bottleneck rifle brass.
Use your calipers, measure your brass, & you will probably find that it is between book max length & trim to length and within a range of 4 or 5 thousandths. If so, load it & shoot it.
 
A scale is critical. Don't go cheap here. There are a lot of cheapo electronic scales. I'd recommend the RCBS 5-0-5 or the Dillon beam scales. I have the RCBS, but the Dillon will usually be a little less expensive. I also recommend check weights so that you can prove your scale's readouts.

You can get away without a case gauge. Use the chamber of the gun. Remove the barrel from the pistol. If the rounds "kerplunk" into the chamber, then you have effectively case gauged your finished round.

There is a lot of load data (recipes) from powder manufacturers online. The reason to get a manual or two is for the step-by-step loading tutorials. I find the Speer #14 to be EXCELLENT in this regard.

I agree with earlier posters about case trimmers. Straight wall pistol brass (ok, ok, 9mm is technically a tapered case but same concept) tends to actually shrink in length. It behaves much differently than bottleneck cases that grow in length. I have never trimmed a pistol case.
 
When you buy a Lee Loader it comes with the BEST sized scoop for starting loads already as well as data for using it. If you want to use something other than a starting load or different propellant a set of good quality scales are a must have. You purchased more than you needed for sure but it will come in handy later. I also do not EVER length size straight walled brass (other than 30 Carbine which I do) so I never purchase the kit for them but it was not that expensive. The stud/cutter can be used with other calibers in the future. I would recommend a separate priming tool such as the Lee hand primer and shell holders. They will be handy later as well and after you pop a few primers realize it is a good investment as an addition to a Lee loader.

That said, I have several Lee loaders for backup use or loaners. I also have a Lee hand press for load development at the range.
 
The first third of Lyman #49 is educating you on what you are doing. Or you can just take Billy Bob from the internets word for it. Its not like anything dangerous could happen with gunpowder and controlled explosions.
 
Is there not enough load info available on the manufacturers websites to start loading without the manuals? Those books are expensive, I wAnted to make sure that I enjoyed reloading before spending anymore cash.

There is load data on manufactures websites true and you can use it, but what if you don't like how it performs in your pistol? Main thing about the Lyman's is, it shows you HOW to reload which is vital, and I've seen you ordered it which is good. I believe Midway has the Nosler manual on sale right now for like $15.

What I normally do, and the reason I suggested 2-3, is I take averages. I take the avg of all my manuals (and manufactures data) start data, and avg of all the max, and I do my workup between those two points. Do this will always keep you safe.

Another reason for multiple manuals as well as manufactures, is that one manual may not have tested the powder you want to use so they won't have it in their manual, but your other manuals may have it. That way you never run into not having a reliable source for data for the powder you want to use.

On the scale, you don't have to buy an expensive beam scale like some have suggested. I've used the Hornady electronic scale for last two years, and it's been perfectly safe. Just keep fresh batteries in it. I just recently got the Hornady Auto Charge, but I love reloading and know that I'm going to be doing it for awhile yet. I weighed every charge by hand for last two years using a single stage press.
 
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Yea, I weigh charges by hand sometimes for pistol rounds. Heck, I just enjoy almost every aspect of reloading. I get to do it a lot more than I get to shoot.


On the manuals if you end up diving in, I try and get every one I can pick up. Like Jrow said, the more data to cross reference the better.
 
Ah, looking into my crystal ball, I see you buying a Lee 1000 progressive in the near future....a 9mm cartridge fits into a 9mm semi automatic handgun. A semi auto handgun in 9mm eats a large volume of ammo every time it gets taken out. I am betting that you will get awful tired of the pace that the Lee hand loader will produce 9mm ammo. Even a single stage press is a lot of work to keep up with the appetite of 9mm, but it make your reloading experience much more appealing than loading 4-500 rounds with a Lee Loader.
 
Ah, looking into my crystal ball, I see you buying a Lee 1000 progressive in the near future....a 9mm cartridge fits into a 9mm semi automatic handgun. A semi auto handgun in 9mm eats a large volume of ammo every time it gets taken out. I am betting that you will get awful tired of the pace that the Lee hand loader will produce 9mm ammo. Even a single stage press is a lot of work to keep up with the appetite of 9mm, but it make your reloading experience much more appealing than loading 4-500 rounds with a Lee Loader.

Your crystal ball is wise. That's what happened to me. I bought a Single stage to start loading 9mm. Within a year I had a Lee turret and a Hornady LNL.

You don't need any of the trim stuff. I would suggest a Lee perfect powder measure. They're not perfect, but they're cheap, they work and are a lot more effective than the scoops.
 
Is there not enough load info available on the manufacturers websites to start loading without the manuals? Those books are expensive, I wAnted to make sure that I enjoyed reloading before spending anymore cash.
The manuals are for you education and edification and, above all, for your safety. There are older editions of ABCs of Reloading available for free download at several sites around the web. Used book stores often have manuals. Your local library will also have manuals (if not, ask them to find it at another one. Libraries are networked and loan between branches). Let your fingers do a little surfing, and do a little leg work.

And get a scale. If you look at the instructions of your dipper set, you will find that Lee recommends one if you want to use heavier or lighter loads than their dipper data.
 
Pick up a scale, the scoops are only a convenience tool. Once you've determined what it's scooping by verifying it against a scale, then your good to go. I have an old Lee scoop kit from many years ago, and the slide chart doesn't always get you the intended charge weight.

You'll also need a loading tray.

That said, buy a press. Your going to get pretty tired of the snail pace that Lee kit produces. Even a single stage press would be a big improvement.

GS
 
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I also have a Lee classic press. Is the Perfect Power Measure a better measure than the disk setup? Will it fit the turret powder drop die and work the same as the disk's
 
Definitely get a scale. I started with the Lee scoops but quickly realized that I could not get consistent charge (based on actually firing the rounds I was making). I also found that their conversion chart (cc to grains) is somewhat inaccurate for the flake powders. I was getting roughly 15% less charge than what their chart indicated, no matter what technique I used.
 
I also have a Lee classic press. Is the Perfect Power Measure a better measure than the disk setup? Will it fit the turret powder drop die and work the same as the disk's
I'm not sure if the perfect powder measure can be used on the turret. One advantage it does have is the ability to drop any measure of powder and not just what's in the discs. I love the auto disc and often use it on my LNL, but sometimes you need a charge that's not there. The adjustable charge bar is good for that too.
 
Get a brass or hard plastic dead blow mallet. A regular hammer will work, but you may mess up some brass. Dont sweat too much about trimming 9mm brass. Xtreame had a sale on their bullets, but if not their regular price is not too bad. I started with the wack a case loader when I first started reloading. I found that working in batches is the best way to go, but thats just me. I do agree that you need to get a manual not just for the load data, but to get an understanding of whats going on. I helped a friend start loading earlier this year and it has been a challange for him, me, and my bullet puller. I started off by giving him a manual to read before he undertook his reloading adventures. He didnt take the time to read it and about every other call he made to me resulted in me telling him to pull the bullets and start over. You really need a good understanding of what you are going and what could go wrong if you do or dont do somthing ( like reading a loading manual).
 
You definitely need a scale. An "analogic" one at the minimum, a digital and a beam scale, ideally. And yes, you'll be switching to a faster press soon. I suggest you try a Classic Turret semiprogressive if you're on a budget or don't want to spend much for the moment. Should you buy the LCT in the form of a kit, you'd get a proper powder measure, the beam scale, a manual and priming tools for a very reasonable amount of money.
 
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