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Yes, but (there’s always a but) one of the first things to research online are the known and suspected errors in the manuals you plan to buy. Some are rather egregious while others are more nearly sublime.
Thats why you get BOOKS (w an "S") instead of BOOK. The discrepancies will be appearent when one does his cross referance. I cannot think of a more useful learning resource. I have Iearned more from reloading manuals then all my testing combined.
 
Sadly this afternoon we had a power failure hit us, out for just long enough for everything to shut down. Then when my computer came back on it wouldn't boot. Looks like it took out the HD. So now no email no pictures until I can get it repaired.

Pull the modem, many times it gets fried in power surges and causes a no post/no video. It’s also not usually covered by warranty either. If that doesn’t fix it try a different power strip and/or outlet.
 
I've considered the Lee Classic Turret Press Kit just for the simplicity. As you mentioned, though, alot of people seem to note that you end up upgrading a decent amount of stuff from kits like that.

I'm not married to the Lee Classic Turret or the Frankford Arsenal M Press. One thing I like about both, though, is the ability to quickly swap dies/turrets and not have to reset the depth every time I swap. With the Lee, being able to prime on the press is handy too and saves me one thing I'd otherwise have to purchase.

You don’t have to reset the dies if you remove them, provided you ditch the Oring style lock rings lee uses. The locking rings from any maker allows the dies to be removed and installed and keep the setting. Some folks use the Oring dies but put two on so they jam together.
 
Personally I like most of the stuff in the lee kit but I haven’t used their scale. I hear it’s a pain, and I don’t have a PhD. But I can use a RCBS 505 without having to get the instructions out.
 
Whichever press or kit you decide on will work. One of the first things I ask anyone when starting out: how many rounds do you shoot a month, how much time can you dedicate to loading said ammo, and what kind of budget do you have for hardware? That’s kinda the first considerations to be addressed, then do you have a place to load, a bench is nice or a 2x6 clamped to a table with a single stage bolted to it served many of us many years.

Whichever press, whichever dies, a way to prime, a way to remove primer crimps, case lube, a way to trim/chamfer/debur, a way to measure it all, powder dispenser with check weights to verify it, good lighting, a powder trickler is very nice to have, loading blocks if loading single stage, wet tumbler with pins(does good without the pins, just not as blingy), 3 gallon bucket with colander to separate brass, couple of loading manuals(also check powder and bullet mfrs sites for info), brass storage, loaded round storage, powder/primer storage, extra die lock rings and turrets if using a turret press, labels, a reloading log book for all your tried recipes good and bad, and a mentor would be a huge help if possible.

Once you get comfortable there we can discuss casting and powder coating. :)
 
Personally I like most of the stuff in the lee kit but I haven’t used their scale. I hear it’s a pain, and I don’t have a PhD. But I can use a RCBS 505 without having to get the instructions out.
I had a chance to try the Lee scale recently. As far as I can tell, the issue stems from the fact that the pan and hanger are integrated instead of separate. Every time I zeroed the scale, I could bump the beam up or down and it would come back to zero every time. But if I took the pan/hanger off the end of the beam and put it back on, the pointer would come to rest 0.1 or 0.2 grains over or under zero. I think if you don't get the hanger back on its knife exactly the same as it was, it affects your zero.

By contrast, the hanger on my old Lyman M5 stays in contact with the beam while I take the pan off the hanger, so I think it stays more consistent. Comes back to zero every single time.

Maybe it's unfair to compare Lee to Lyman, but there it is. And if you're comfortable being within +/- 0.1 grains or more of your charge weight, maybe the Lee scale is just fine for your needs.
 
Hey everybody, apologize for the very newbie question/thread. I'm looking to get started reloading. Part is for a small cost savings (I know that isn't as significant as it once was), part because Illinois is working on making it more difficult to buy ammo, and part just to be more self sufficient.

Ultimately I'd like to be able to reload for all of my calibers (except 22lr of course) but will probably start out with just one or two. What I own in order of my priority in starting to load them: 223, 357/38, 9mm, 243, 45 ACP, 308, 380.

This is a long term plan, so probably will piece everything together over some time. I know components can be hard to find at a reasonable price at the moment, so I'm not in a huge rush.

Looking for any input for anything I'm missing or things that should be replaced with something else. Cost is a consideration, just had a 2nd kid not too long ago!

So, here's my shopping list. Frankford Arsenal is on there quite a bit because I can get a significant discount on their stuff via ExpertVoice as "law enforcement."

Bench/stand - I'll probably get a standard work bench or the Frankford Arsenal Reloading Stand. I'm kind of leaning towards the stand to save space. I've also tossed around the idea of a small rolling tool cabinet and putting a wood top on it.

Dies (of course) - Going to probably start with 223 and go from there. I'll also toss in the shell holders here assuming the press I use needs them.

Press- Looking at a Lee Precision Classic Turret or Frankford Arsenal M-Press. Leaning towards the Lee since it'll probably be more convenient for loading pistol ammo. If I get the Lee, I'll also add the primer dispenser. If not, I'll add a hand priming tool.

Powder dispenser - I have the Lee Auto Drum on my list, but have also looked at Lyman. If I don't get the Lee press, I'll add a stand for it too. If not, I'll add a thru powder die for calibers that will need it.

Case lube - Hornady One Shot

Loading handbook - Lyman 50th Edition

Scale - Frankford Arsenal Reloading Scale, I'll also add a pan/funnel if needed.

Calipers - Frankford Arsenal digital. I have a set of Harbor Freight ones but want something I have more faith in.

Case cleaner - Frankford Arsenal Rotary Tumbler (I'll probably get the Lite because it's cheaper and I probably don't need the capacity of the larger one).

Case trim/prep - Frankford Arsenal Case Trim/Prep System. I was going to go with hand tool versions for this, but with my discount it's not much of a savings over the powered system.

Bullet puller - Frankford Arsenal Quick-N-EZ Impact bullet puller

RCBS rockchucker kit and be done with it. Add as you progress and learn what you need. Start with 45 ACP, that's the easiest round (besides straight wall revolver) to start with. Perfect your technique, then move on. If you can't load with what's in a Rockchucker kit + dies and consumables and make safe, consistent, shootable ammo, sell it all on Ebay and just buy your ammo.

I will also add one more thing.....no matter where you go or how far you take this hobby, there will always be a place on your bench for that Rockchucker. I have a 2 15K dollar each automated progressives......and a rockchucker on a bench next to them.
 
Poor OP. Thought he was walking into an AA meeting. Turned out to be whiskey lover's convention. :neener::rofl:

Hey, I'm a bourbon enthusiast so I'm all about a whiskey lover's convention!

All the information has been extremely helpful, given me alot to chew on and consider. I'm kind of thinking I may end up getting the Lee Classic Turret Kit to start out and add pieces as I can. I know I will want to upgrade stuff, but at least it'll get me started.
 
As mentioned above, don't discount a used kit. People are selling like new but used kits all the time and can be a great deal.

I started with everything used, RCBS, from my late brother's estate. I do tend to stick with a brand if it treats me okay and RCBS doesn't disappoint. All brands make pretty good equipment and can make good ammo. Pick your color or colors and have at it.

I think, quite honestly, the questions you ask and the answers you receive on sites like this are more important than the kit. Good luck and enjoy the journey.
 
Years ago, maybe 15 years ago my brother wanted to get started in reloading and Christmas was about upon us. I started to piecemeal Pices and Parts and then my head started to hurt. I figured my head may explode. I started looking at kits, just about all manufacturers market starter kits. Kits, like anything else have their good and bad points. Good, you get a bunch of stuff in one big box. Bad half the stuff is not really needed but it looks good in promotional pictures. My wife and I settled on a RCBS master Rock Chucker Supreme which at the time was about $350 or so, been a long time. Just about every retailer offers a kit of some sorts. Then you find things not included in the kits and see what does or does not work for you.

Also, as mentioned, the forum has some really helpful reloading sticky information. The library of reloading wisdom is worth some reading. Just about everyone here has their own pet loading equipment and often it comes down to what works for you and the depth of your pocket book. Reloading bench? Build or buy but make it heavy and sturdy. Cost on some items? Buy once and cry once but keep things within reason.

Just My Thinking....
Ron
 
I started with a Hornady kit four years ago because of the price (it was on clearance for $200). Was leaning towards the RCBS kit but it was nearly twice as much. I still use most of what came in the kit, but I have added bits and pieces here and there. It's really hard to go wrong with a starter kit, everything you need at a better price than buying each piece. Once you get started you'll find what works for you and what you like/dislike.

I currently have equipment from Hornady, RCBS, Lyman, FA, Lee, and a few different brands of funnels. They all have their ups and downs, but they all work and make good ammo.

I would also recommend that one of your first upgrades be a second loading manual. This gives you a cross reference for data since different companies put out different data, and sometimes it's quite different.

chris
 
Yes, a powder trickler. It may slow you down initially but you’ll get fast with it. Especially if you tend to use the same powders. I prefer the Frankford Arsenal.
https://www.frankfordarsenal.com/re...-scales-and-tools/powder-trickler/903535.html
I had the RCBS and it was lightweight and difficult to use (for me). I’ve heard the Redding is great also.

I got the RCBS trickler 15+ years ago and melted some lead and filled the base to keep it more stable. Works so much better now.

Just because you like something that works, doesn’t mean you can’t make it suit you better with a little innovation. I load on a Lee Reloader press and was intermittently having primers not fall into the press so I took a small grinding point and gently opened the bottom of the opening up a little where the primers were hitting if they came out slowly and now rarely do I have a primer not go into the jar. Under the bench is a 6oz glass jar with a 3/4” hole in the lid screwed to the bench under the press lined up with a heavily chamfered 3/4” hole in the bench under the press. Don’t have to dismount the press and it takes a good while before I need to empty the jar.
 
I’m was in your situation less than two years ago in the worst of the ammo/gun/reloading shortage mess. Here is what I have/did, and I am 100% happy with the route I took. I only reload pistol at this point, but planning to cut my teeth on .223 & 30-30 soon.

Reloading bench: Home Depot Husky adjustable work table:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-6...orkbench-Table-in-Black-HOLT62XDB12/301810799

Super sturdy, easy to roll, adjustable height. They come in several sizes.

Press: Dillon 550C. I buy all my Dillon brand stuff that I can from
Scheels.com. Best prices and free shipping.

The biggest issue with Dillon is the cost. In addition to dies, you need a caliber conversion kit ($70) for each caliber die set. And it makes sense if you swap a lot to get a powder die and tool head for each caliber which runs you another $20 and $40 total, but not totally necessary. The advantage to the extra powder die and tool head is that you can keep everything set up and change calibers quickly. I am not there quite yet. I have a couple extra tool heads but not powder dies.

I have a small single stage Lee press I picked up for basically nothing and a Lee universal depriming die and that’s how I deprime the majority of all cases because when I load ammo, I start the progressive process with clean deprimed cases.

I get a lot of range brass from friends who don’t reload, so I tend to spend a lot of time on case prep due to volume as I build up my brass stores. Sometimes, I just commit a Saturday to knocking it out, or I chop it up into after work segments. My process is a preliminary soak and wash in a Home Depot bucket with hot water and Dawn. Then I sort and dry. Then I deprime by caliber and store my brass ready to load by caliber.

When ready to load, That is when I’m on the Dillon. I grab the brass and run them through the size-prime-charge-seat-crimp-done process. With a full primer tube, dies set, and cases and bullets at the press, I can load 100 9MM/.45/.38 in about 12-15 minutes, and that includes visually inspecting powder and manually indexing the turntable.

When buying new, I generally buy upper quality Lee dies. I also have RCBS and Hornady dies I bought used. I only use carbide pistol dies.

I use an old Redding beam scale to check my charges. I had a Hornady pocket digital scale that was horribly off, so I sent it back. When I start loading precision rifle, I’ll probably look at adding a good RCBS digital at some point.

I have a Frankford Arsenal depriming tool I used to use for depriming. It works okay, but prefer the Lee setup.

I have a lot of $ in my set up, maybe too much if you ask my wife, but I’m pretty sure she could liquidate the entire set up for 90% of what I paid, based on private sales I’ve seen lately.

Good luck with your new hobby!
 
I know I’ll probably get slammed for this, but I’ll tell you that today, one reloading manual that has good info on the ABC’s of reloading is all i plan on buying because I get most of my reloading data on the Hodgdon Reloading web site. Stuff that’s not there, I do a search for. And this site has a lot of guys with great info and load data. I have the Lyman 50th.

I spent (wasted) $20 on the Hornady app. Way too limited.

Once you decide on powder and bullets, there is so much quality info available for free that buying a stack or reloading manuals is just nothing I’m interested in doing. They do have good info, but it ain’t like they are reinventing the process every edition.
 
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I know I’ll probably get slammed for this, but I’ll tell you that today, one reloading manual that has good info on the ABC’s of reloading is all i plan on buying because I get most of my reloading data on the Hodgdon Reloading web site. Stuff that’s not there, I do a search for. And this site has a lot of guys with great info and load data. I have the Lyman 50th.

I spent (wasted) $20 on the Hornady app. Way too limited.

Once you decide on powder and bullets, there is so much quality info available for free that buying a stack or reloading manuals is just nothing I’m interested in doing. They do have good info, but it ain’t like they are reinventing the process every edition.
Don’t take this as a slam. I really hope you never regret that decision. Honestly.
 
RCBS rockchucker kit and be done with it. Add as you progress and learn what you need. Start with 45 ACP, that's the easiest round (besides straight wall revolver) to start with. Perfect your technique, then move on. If you can't load with what's in a Rockchucker kit + dies and consumables and make safe, consistent, shootable ammo, sell it all on Ebay and just buy your ammo.

I will also add one more thing.....no matter where you go or how far you take this hobby, there will always be a place on your bench for that Rockchucker. I have a 2 15K dollar each automated progressives......and a rockchucker on a bench next to them.
RockChucker is proven and tough like a railroad track. If your starting off doing .223 you need lots of Lube (cooking spray) and leverage - And big Lag Bolts

RockChunker Kit is the best! Get the expensive one with a balance beam scale!
 
Hey, I'm a bourbon enthusiast so I'm all about a whiskey lover's convention!

All the information has been extremely helpful, given me alot to chew on and consider. I'm kind of thinking I may end up getting the Lee Classic Turret Kit to start out and add pieces as I can. I know I will want to upgrade stuff, but at least it'll get me started.
Get the Rock Chuncker! It’s solid like a iceberg in a sea of Cruise boats! And I love Jim Beam! Cheap and delicious
 
Don’t take this as a slam. I really hope you never regret that decision. Honestly.
No, I don’t. Appreciate your inputs a lot!

I know a lot of seasoned reloaders love their library of reloading manuals. But as for me, I’m just not that worried that I cannot find the info I need pretty readily for free. And I always cross check any load I’m looking at with more than one source.

When I go looking for a load, I start in my manual or the Hornady website or whichever powder makers site I’m using.

https://www.hodgdonreloading.com/

https://www.vihtavuori.com/reloading-data/

https://www.alliantpowder.com/reloaders/index.aspx

These sites have 95% of the info I need.

Some bullet makers have a lot of info too:

https://www.speer.com/reloading/rifle-data.html

https://www.nosler.com/load-data/caliber-and-cartridge-data.html

This article has quite a few free sites…

https://www.pewpewtactical.com/best-reloading-data/

And a search on THR will usually confirm most data that’s out there.

I’m not against paying for info, but I am really trying to get rid of a lot of big heavy books. I mean, who still buys hard copy encyclopedias any more?

YMMV
 
No, I don’t. Appreciate your inputs a lot!

I know a lot of seasoned reloaders love their library of reloading manuals. But as for me, I’m just not that worried that I cannot find the info I need pretty readily for free. And I always cross check any load I’m looking at with more than one source.

When I go looking for a load, I start in my manual or the Hornady website or whichever powder makers site I’m using.

https://www.hodgdonreloading.com/

https://www.vihtavuori.com/reloading-data/

https://www.alliantpowder.com/reloaders/index.aspx

These sites have 95% of the info I need.

Some bullet makers have a lot of info too:

https://www.speer.com/reloading/rifle-data.html

https://www.nosler.com/load-data/caliber-and-cartridge-data.html

This article has quite a few free sites…

https://www.pewpewtactical.com/best-reloading-data/

And a search on THR will usually confirm most data that’s out there.

I’m not against paying for info, but I am really trying to get rid of a lot of big heavy books. I mean, who still buys hard copy encyclopedias any more?

YMMV
I get lots of my load data online too. But for me , I like the manual for EMP or a Solar Flair event. I want to be 1000% non reliant on electrons! So for me, Books and Manual is a must!
 
Get the Rock Chuncker! It’s solid like a iceberg in a sea of Cruise boats! And I love Jim Beam! Cheap and delicious

I'm mulling it over. I submitted info to RCBS as they offer an LE discount as well, waiting to get approved and see if it saves me anything on a kit. If I can get their Rockchucker kit within my budget I wouldn't be opposed to it.
 
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