BP Loads

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I must be. I am!! Thank you! :) :neener:

But I've never been "recoil sensitive". I would imagine that among the troops there were many who would not be bothered shooting the rifle load in the carbine, who were perhaps "gun guys" to begin with and then there were many "city boys", new recruits, not experienced with firearms, or more recoil sensitive types who were bothered by it. The solution of course would be the lighter load to improve marksmanship with the recruits and those who were more recoil sensitive. ? That's my theory, and I'm sticking to it! I really don't think the rifle load kicks that badly in the carbine. And I don't think every trooper would have found it "objectionable".

The 55 grain carbine load did have it's disadvantages, the rifle load, from the rifle out-ranged it quite a bit. At the battle of the Rosebud, when the Cavalry troops were getting hard pressed, or in a pinch, they would then have the infantry come up and put more effective rifle fire on the enemy, and drive them back.

I would guess standardization of supplies and efficient use of powder and projectile were larger concerns, especially in the Civil War. If the 55 grain loading would stop a horse with standard 2f powder, ordinance wouldn’t see much value in adding more powder or lead per shot or using a finer granulation… until enough cavalry troops found themselves outranged that is.
 
For what it’s worth if your loading by volume, and using the same volume measure the 2F will give you more economy per pound. The velocity will be a bit lower. The 2f will reduce the amount needed to fill the case.
I use 2f in BPshot shells and an old breech loading carbine for just that reason.
 
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For what it’s worth if your loading by volume, and using the same volume measure the 2F will give you more economy per pound. The velocity will be a bit lower. The 2f will reduce the amount needed to fill the case.
I use 2f in BJ shot shells and an old breech loading carbine for just that reason.

That's a good point. I shoot a lot of cap and ball so I've always had mainly 3F - I wonder if 2F would perform very well in a revolver? I've never even thought to try it.
 
That's a good point. I shoot a lot of cap and ball so I've always had mainly 3F - I wonder if 2F would perform very well in a revolver? I've never even thought to try it.

What you will probably see in going to 2f in a revolver is an increase in fouling. We see that in our competition muskets. Conventional "wisdom" says 2f but you can shoot 3f if you cut the charge a bit with no ill effects and as a side benefit, fouling is reduced with 3f.
 
That's a good point. I shoot a lot of cap and ball so I've always had mainly 3F - I wonder if 2F would perform very well in a revolver? I've never even thought to try it.

It will work fine. To tell any difference you would need a chronograph and if you have to chrono it there's not enough difference to matter.
 
Wow...I think my Marlin would like that. That is often my berry-picking-gun. That load would pack a punch!
The Postell is kind of a "pinocchio boolit"...long in the nose, and fairly top heavy. I would load a dummy round first and make sure it chambers before loading up a whole box. They do fine in the Sharps because it has a pretty long leade and there is no crimp groove in the bullet. Montana Precision Swaging sells the Postell but they have been out of stock since the beginning of the year. The Lyman mould (P/N 457132) is also pretty hard to get lately also.
I agree, though...if it loads and chambers it would be more fun than a barrel of monkeys!
 
Oh, I forgot that the Marlin requires a short over-all length. Dagnabbit. Well...could load it in the TD carbine, which as the same barrel length, 22" which would not be ideal for that load. Talk about recoil. !

But, I have already found that in my TD rifle, long, bore riding noses are hard to load after a couple of shots, chamber has a tight leade. Yes I know about blow tubes and such, but Grizz might find it amusing me blowing down the bore of my rifle between shots. Time out!
 
Oh, I forgot that the Marlin requires a short over-all length. Dagnabbit. Well...could load it in the TD carbine, which as the same barrel length, 22" which would not be ideal for that load. Talk about recoil. !

But, I have already found that in my TD rifle, long, bore riding noses are hard to load after a couple of shots, chamber has a tight leade. Yes I know about blow tubes and such, but Grizz might find it amusing me blowing down the bore of my rifle between shots. Time out!
I also shoot the .405gr FN in the Sharps. I have little doubt there is a huge jump from those to the leade. They might work good in your Marlin. Which model, if I may ask?
 
It's a 1895 "JM". 22" barrel, half magazine. Many don't know, but that rifle was intended to emulate the Winchester Light Weight 1886.
marblkgrp.jpg
Oh yeah, I shoot the 405 grain bullet in the Marlin. Same load as for the carbine, 70 grains of 3fg Swiss. But my Marlin load is 80 grains under the Speer Jacketed 400 grain bullet. That load also shoots well in my TD rifle, but I don't like to send too many jacketed bullets down the bore of it.
 
I've shot the .405 grn out of my roller and its enough to get your attention but not nasty, shooting the same loads from my recently acquired trap door is a whole different story. It's downright vicious, I changed to a 250 grn bullet and it's way more accurate, the trap door has a slower twist than the rolling block and it's lighter weight. Still playing with load development on both rifles, the roller likes 350 and 405 grn bowling balls.
 
Guess you're way stronger and tougher than the Indian Wars cavalry troops. They shot the 405g bullet over 55g of black powder...something like our FFg. That was the issue carbine load.

Dave

Not so much stronger or tougher.....the military was amazingly cheap (read that as stupid) when it came to things like that. They were more worried about not spending money than anything else....so the smaller the charge the better for the budget.
 
Does the corrosive powder weaken the brass?
I have seen a lot of people that must be using black powder in their rifle loads lately, I guess because they can't find smokeless powder.
A lot of the brass is a heavy green from the corrosion. I found a hand full of .300 BLK brass was green.
 
Does the corrosive powder weaken the brass?
I have seen a lot of people that must be using black powder in their rifle loads lately, I guess because they can't find smokeless powder.
A lot of the brass is a heavy green from the corrosion. I found a hand full of .300 BLK brass was green.

It will if you let it. I drop my fired brass in a jug of Windex and water after firing. When I'm done I rinse it off and put in in a vibratory tumbler with Meguiar's auto polish and walnut media. It comes out stained but clean.
 
I would prefer FFg in the .45-70 and FFFg in the .45 Colt. But, like others said, if purchasing only ONE powder, get FFg and use it for both.

However, it is now difficult to find black powder at all, and so if you have a source for it, I would purchase BOTH FFg and FFFg powder as if you need some in the future, you will have it. Better yet, purchase two of each.
 
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