Brass framed Colt

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Diogenes415

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Recently I bought the least expensive "1851 Colt" I could find just because I figured I really should try one out and have it as an alternative to my "1858 Remington". Well wouldn't you know I've come to really prefer the Colt over the Rem for both feel and aesthetics but now I'm a little dismayed at the fact that I bought the cheaper brass framed one instead of forking over the extra dosh for the steel framed Navy Civilian in .44.

So what sort of life expectancy are we talking about here with a brass frame? If I shoot 60 rounds of ~24 gr black every weekend, should I expect to replace it within the next two years? Less?
 
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I can't answer that question as postulated any more than I could answer "How many licks does it take to reach the center of a tootsie roll pop?"
If though you wish to shoot your Brasser forever, use 15 grns and some cream of wheat.
robert
 
Do you have a brass framed BP six-shooter? How many rounds have you shot through it and is it still serviceable? People have personal experiences which they can convey. I'm not looking for ignorant postulating or a time frame I'd hold anyone accountable for.

From my experiences it takes about 10-15 minutes to get to the center of a tootsie roll pop and I've been known to spit acid... other's experiences vary and that sort of input is all I'm looking for.
 
My 1969 brass .36 has been retired for many years & probably had less than 500 rounds through it before I set it in the safe, because of the issue.

A buddy shooting his .44 brass along with me in '72 pulled his arbor loose in less than 100 rounds, and he wasn't hot-rodding his gun.

It varies.

Mine has loads of sentimental value & I want it to remain shootable as such, even if I never shoot it again.
I didn't push it, once I learned the brass frames are weaker.

How soon yours will loosen up is totally unpredictable.
It remains less durable than a steel frame, but nobody can tell you when it'll wear out.
Denis
 
I shot mine a bunch with 30 grain loads in CAS; arbor is still tight, cylinder gap is still good. Maybe I was just lucky. Sorry, I cant give you a definite number, but I'd guess 'twixt 500 and 1000 rounds. I put a new hammer in it a couple of years ago, and the bolt wedge isn't quite right. The cylinder will lock up with a fast hammer pull, but will not lock up with a slow hammer pull. I don't know if that would be related to frame stretch or not, but I kinda sorta retired it, and used the screws on other guns.
 
Thanks guys, that was helpful info! I'm probably just going to expect a relatively short service life from it and enjoy it as much as I can while having a steel framed '51 Colt waiting in the wings to replace the brasser when it's time is up and is relegated to "donor" status.
 
Well wouldn't you know I've come to really prefer the Colt over the Rem

I hear you loud and clear brother loud and clear!! :)

I think that's the best course also, enjoy the brass frame as long as you can but in the end buy a steel frame revolver especially if you're going to do that much shootin. You could always just use the brasser for spare parts.
 
I have two brass framed Pietta .44 1851 Navies (we will not debate the historical inaccuracy of such a name). I use them in cowboy action shooting competition, with 20 grains of 2F powder under a round ball. They are as tight as as the day I bought them. I expect to pass them on to my grandson.

If you don't try to make Walkers out of the brassers they should last you a nice long time.
 
Lowering the powder charge to 15 grains should extend the frame's useful life, which would be one way to go, but I prefer a serious load when I shoot BP.

I chronographed a steel Uberti at 942 FPS with Remington caps & 22 grains of powder last month.
Not too bad.
Denis
 
On a side note, once upon a time a made up a batch of BP and tested it with my brass .44. Since I knew my powder was a lot fluffier and much more compressable I just filled the cylinder to the top and stuffed a bullet over it. My chronograph read 1052fps on that one shot. I wouldn't recommend that as a steady diet for a brass frame.
 
I had room for more powder, but didn't want to push it too hard as a working load. :)
Denis
 
I shoot 20grs FFFg in my brasser 44s and so far, so good. Only a few hundred rounds through them. Pulp has been lucky with his. The first sign of trouble will be an increased cylinder gap. At that point either the cylinder pin (arbor) is pulling out of the frame or the recoil ring (raised ring on the face of the recoil shield where the cylinder contacts) will get battered in by the rear of the cylinder and open the gap. You can see indentations on the recoil ring and excessive cylinder gaps in "shot loose" "stretched" brassers with solid arbors.
 
You should definitely try it at 20gr. It might very well be more accurate. Varies from gun to gun but sometimes changing the load a bit can make a big difference. If it makes it worse, well, I'd rather have the short lifespan and more accuracy, you know?
 
People of the powder, thank you so much for your input. I'm going to try 20 gr and go from there to find the best load. Once I find it I'll just enjoy the pistol as long as I can and hope that the "Pulp luck" finds me and that the pistol lasts longer than I do (isn't that a somewhat morbid sentiment?).
 
I load 21 grains 3F with cornmeal filler and she still shoots fine, is still tight after about 5 years. I must admit I prefer to shoot my Remington, though, for the accuracy. It's a good bit more accurate. Also, I got a .45ACP conversion for it, something you can't do with a brasser.
 
Loading the cylinder off of the frame with one of the widely available loading tools could also help. Loading on the frame with the loading lever can hasten the wear on the arbor/frame connection, especially if you have narrow cylinder throats.
 
I also wouldn't go much less than 20 grains of powder unless you are absolutely sure that your loading tool or loading lever is long enough to seat your ball that deep.
 
If the ball won't seat on a 20gr charge then use a filler or a wad on top of the powder. I get 1/2" thick 44cal wads and lube them then split them in half or thirds to make more wads. Order them from circlefly.com
 
I, too, have a brass Navy. .44 cal. I was told it was a confederate version, but that really does not matter. I bought it understanding it would someday shoot "loose". I also bought my dog knowing someday he would wear out also. Enjoy them while they last. You might just wear out first.
 
If you load mild target loads (which are almost always more accurate anyway) 15-25 grains of black powder and load on a stand with the cylinder out of the gun your brasser will probably last a LONG time. It's pretty simple really. Just load reasonably and don't apply stresses on your guns loading ram that are unnecessary.
 
Loading the cylinder off of the frame with one of the widely available loading tools could also help. Loading on the frame with the loading lever can hasten the wear on the arbor/frame connection, especially if you have narrow cylinder throats.

Yes, I have a loading press and load off the gun. Mine's a 5" barrel and loading off the gun is much easier, anyway. I did buy a 7" barrel for it and fitted a new wedge. I don't expect to ever wear the gun out before I'm gone, but then, I'm gettin' up there.
 
Another option would be to simply buy steel framed replacements and sell the brasser for the cheap cost you paid to someone that wants to try it much in the manner you did.

I can see the .36 caliber guns being a lot more sturdy over the long haul simply due to the lower forces. But with the 15 to 20gn loads being suggested unless there's a casting flaw I would expect your present gun to last quite a while.

For myself after shooting an "honest" 30 gns of powder for so long I'd end up wondering "Where's the BEEF!?!?!?" if I went to anything under 25gns..... :D
 
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