Break-in

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Benzene

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The guy at the gun store told me that an H&K .45acp pistol does NOT need a break-in period. I wonder how accurate is that statement. Thanks.
 
Lots of modern pistols don't really need a break in period. Some, Kahr specifically, do advise users to put a couple hundred rounds through them before relying on it for defense, whil things like the Lone Wolf .40-9 barrels for Glocks advise the user to shoot mostly +P or warm loads for the first hundred or two hundred rounds, probably to help get the slide acquainted with the new barrel.
 
Oh and it's never a bad idea to put a couple hundred rounds through any new pistol that you might use for defense before relying on it for that. Just running a diagnostic.
 
A properly built firearm should not require shooting a specific number of rounds to "help" it function properly. IMO you should fire no less than 500 rounds to ensure reliability before carrying.

Others may have differing opinions.
 
New one

I bought a brand new H&K today. Now I want to field strip it and lubricate as necessary, and then off to the range...
 
The newer HK's like the USp need no break in. The older style "squeeze cockers" need a few hundred down range before they start to truely feel good IMO.


Some guns have a rough machined finish on the barrel and side rails that needs worn down with use until they loosen up.

Kahrs and 1911's in particular. Usually they should work fine with hot ammo, but wimpy WWB style plinking ammo may jam them up until breakin is complete..
 
Initial cleaning

Thanks for the very helpful statements.

Zerodefect, the spent shell that came with mine is dated 9/14/2009. So, I think that makes mine one of the "newer HK's". HOw much initial cleaning is required? Thanks.
 
Go over it, make sure all the parts are there, nothing obviously wrong, make sure the packing grease if there is any is removed, swab the bore quickly to make sure there isn't any leftover heavy lubricant in there, basically just give it a good wiping down internally and then some light lubrication.
 
Only companies that expect their products to have problems *cough*cough*kimber*cough will tell you that you need to break in the gun before it can be expected to function properly. That said, anything that you rely on for self defense should be thoroughly tested to establish a track record of reliability before you stake your life on it. --Stork
 
If it is a lane gun, then that's fine, but any pistol I were to employ for SD/HD will have been tested with 500-rds at least. This not only runs the pistol through its paces, but helps you to really learn the gun.

I've had 2 NIB pistols fail on me first time at the range. One was an HK and the other was a Kimber. I've seen Glocks, a Springfield and a Sig fail right out of the box.
 
What kind of failure?

Thanks for the info,CWL, but I'm curious to know what kind of failure you experienced with the H&K "right out of the box." How was the failure remedied? Thanks.
 
I'm not talking about FTF/FTEs (I don't necessarily count them as gun-related, but perhaps Operator-related). I'm talking about broken parts. I've had the striker break on me in the HK second press of the trigger IIRC, my Kimber went full auto due to a bad sear (one of many problems with that one).

The ones I've witnessed, I don't know what the actual problems were, except that they were problems not field repairable.

I also recall seeing a Beretta and more than one M1911 launch parts of themselves downrange.

You live long enough, you'll find out that everything breaks. This is why you need to test any firearm you buy.

I wouldn't worry so much about cleaning, just read the manual and follow those instructions and you are good to go. My warning is about flawed materials that passed a quick inspection, but which may fail after many firings. Also, putting several hundred rounds downrange lets you develop a feel for how your pistol operates.
 
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