Break over, the Uberti 1862 is back.

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webrx said:
Question - are CCI caps harder then Remington? I was thinking “Maybe” the cap is not blowing out as easily as it should allowing pressure to go straight back at the hammer instead of around the nipple. Maybe sacrifice an oem nipple - v-notch it and check for improvement.
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The seem about the same to me. I snapped a bunch of caps just now, there is no hint of hammer bounce. So...I'm guessing for now that it is back pressure from the main charge, although when I first got the gun, with weak spring and the OEM cones, the hammer was blowing back from caps alone.

I popped a couple Remington caps, they actually seemed hotter than the CCI's. But no bounce or blow back. All things considered, I think the caps are only a small part of the problem now.

I might try the Tescos again, although I would think that the smaller hole would create more pressure from the cap. But we'll see.

You would think, in theory, that the Slix-Shots with their vents in the cone would be superior to the Tresos. ?

I'm ready to put this thing away again for a while.
 
Never give up, never surrender.

I heard that someplace. :)

just fix one thing at a time and you will eventually beat this.
 
Truth! So, not giving up, I put the Tesos' back on. Snapped five caps. Like five minutes ago. Got five hammer blow backs. :) Perhaps the Tesso cones, with a very weak or low powered cap could be the answer. But she blew back like crazy. From just a cap. For an experiment, maybe I'll notch them within an inch of their lives.

Seems like a very small flash hole contains the pressure in the nipple, but a larger flash hole allows pressure back from the main charge. I think the heavier bigger hammers on the larger guns overcome that, the light little hammers on the pocket guns can't.

Here's my question for the day. Is there anyone out there that can say that their pocket-Colt never cap-jams? I think there are many perhaps who don't find an occasional jam a problem, that only shoot the gun at the range, or at home. ? For my purposes, one in fifty is about all I'd want to see.

I know this subject has been beat to death, on many forums. Some of the solutions I've investigated have nothing to do with it, like the theory that the hammer is pulling the cap off the nipple when the gun is cocked, because the safety notch in the hammer face is not smooth.

I think I'll get a hammer made from Tungsten Carbide, and try that. :rofl:
 
I never experienced blowback with my all stock Uberti '49 Pocket and 15 gr Goex FFFg and a ball, but now I wonder if a higher energy powder like Swiss would do that. Might be the subject of a future range test.
 
You do good range tests. That would be cool.

I think today I'll try a little less than 20 grains, but again I don't want to go too low. But who knows, maybe 20 is right on the edge with my pistol, and 17 or 18 might work.
 
Hey Ugly Sauce, how about a pic of the main spring purchase on the hammer roll?

Mike
 
Jackrabbit1957 said:
I thinking a cap fence rather then a post may deflect the blow back enough to stop your hammer bounce.
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Excuse my ignoramis, but what is the difference? I thought it was two names for the same thing. Don't tell anyone I didn't know the difference.
 
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45 Dragoon said:
Hey Ugly Sauce, how about a pic of the main spring purchase on the hammer roll?

Mike
Click to expand...

Well, could take a while. Getting really tired of taking it apart!! :cuss:

I did buy two springs that are identical, and could take a pic of it if the profile is important. I think I remember you mentioning once something about giving the hammer end of the spring a dip or a bump or a bend or something. Of course I had to shorten the spring, but I kept it as long as possible without binding.

It stands to reason (if there is any reasoning to these things) that the spring is at it's lowest tension when the hammer is fully forward. That can't help.
 
Ugly Sauce said:
Well, could take a while. Getting really tired of taking it apart!! :cuss:

I did buy two springs that are identical, and could take a pic of it if the profile is important. I think I remember you mentioning once something about giving the hammer end of the spring a dip or a bump or a bend or something. Of course I had to shorten the spring, but I kept it as long as possible without binding.

It stands to reason (if there is any reasoning to these things) that the spring is at it's lowest tension when the hammer is fully forward. That can't help.
Click to expand...

Well, it's only 3 screws. I'd just like to see a profile without the backstrap and grip. Just trying to help . . .

Mike
 
I actually had my 1862 in the junk box I was so disappointed.

Then I saw a post on here about a "penny rake" on one. It was the difference between a trout line weight and a gun that finally worked.
index.php
 
I had put the standard cap rake on my larger open tops. But the 1862 and my Wells Fargo were a challange. Then I saw the ones one here with a penny..
I tried different nipples and leather shims, if somebody said rub them in pig ****, I would have tried that. But that penny rake was a life line for these 2 pocket pistols.
 
Pocket said:
I had put the standard cap rake on my larger open tops. But the 1862 and my Wells Fargo were a challange. Then I saw the ones one here with a penny..
I tried different nipples and leather shims, if somebody said rub them in pig ****, I would have tried that. But that penny rake was a life line for these 2 pocket pistols.
Click to expand...

Looks to me like a rake is a must on these pistols. Once again, I sure like the looks of the penny-rake. I think the hammers are just too light, and I can think of no way to fix that. I think most people put up with the cap-jams because most of the time these pistols are just used for plinking and shoot at the range. I really want to use mine as a small game survival pistol, and getting out my pocket knife to pry spent caps out from under the hammer, if I actually need the pistol for that purpose is a no-go. ! It sure is nice and light to carry, and ammo is light. Sure I could just use my .22 pistol, which is even lighter, but what fun is that??!!?? Dang new-fangled cartridge guns anyway!

My 1860 never cap-jams, ever. Seriously.
 
I had all but give up at first.. I think that is how I built an un- intended collection of BP pistols.I kept buying one hoping get one that worked with out jams.
I keep reading about the cap rakes but really didnt grasp it at first.All of my open tops have a rake now.
I practiced on my 1851 44, I figured it was a POS so what did I have to lose.. that one now is my favorite.
index.php
 
The confusing thing about cap-rakes is that all I ever heard was that the caps were sticking to the hammer, which I don't think happens. That never made sense to me. I think, and may be wrong, and someone please tell me if I'm wrong, but the rake blocks the cap from blowing back, it does not rake it off the hammer when the hammer is cocked.

Now if someone has actually seen the cap sticking to the face of the hammer, and then the rake raking in off, I will be glad to stand corrected.

I like Colt snubbies, you can instantly change barrels. That's very cool.
 
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