Breaking in and cleaning a Stainless steel AR15

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clutch

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I need to order a cleaning rod for my .223 cal ar15. I like Dewey coated rods and a 30" would barely do it so I'm thinking the 36" is the way to go. The rifle has a 20" barrel and the evil flash hider for old times sake.

Does a 36" sound right?

The rifle has a stainless barrel and needs to be broke in a bit. What is the break in procedure? What should I clean it with? I spent hard earned money to buy a service rifle upper and I want to treat it right from the start.

Thanks for any help you can give me in advance.

Clutch
 
For a rod, buy either Dewey uncoated stainless steel or a Tipton Carbon fiber.
Many Match shooters are using carbon fiber these days for one major reason:
Either the rod is perfectly straight, or it's broken.

Buy a bore guide with a solvent port.
Buy some plastic solvent transfer bulbs to apply solvent. This keeps contamination out of the bottle.

For break-in every barrel maker and rifle builder has his own opinion. Many recommend a specific break-in procedure, some say none is needed or recommended.
Either do what you want, or follow the barrel or rifle makers recommendation. If they don't list anything, ASK THEM.

Remember, break-in for a stainless barrel is different and shorter than for a carbon steel barrel.
If the barrel is hard chrome plated, no break-in is required, or even possible.
If the barrel is a better grade Match barrel, you probably don't need any break-in, since the maker laps the bore as part of the manufacturing process.
 
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Hoppes, Shooters Choice, brass stem brush, proper patches, and Dewey rod with jag. Bore Guide. Break in is really not a big deal. Clean after the first couple range sessions then shoot it. When it starts shooting good (around 75 rounds) you're good to go for at least another 75 rounds without cleaning. Clean at around 150 round intervals or so. John Barsness did a great article about cleaning intervals and accuracy awhile back.
 
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