Broke my SAA - is this common?

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Lovesbeer99

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I have a Cimarron model P in .357 mag and went to the range with it, but only shot light 38's. There were no problems and I went home and put it in the safe. About 1 week later I took it out of the safe and noticed the problem.

That little pin that comes up from the bottom of the frame to lock the cylinder in place is not coming up. Its stuck in the frame. So when I cock the hammer, the cylinder just spins.

Should this be an easy fix? Is this common? Maybe I should send this out and get an action job while I'm at it.

1 last question. The gun shoots to the left. How can I get this corrected?

Thanks in advance.
 
over oiled? might wanna pop off the side plate and see whats going on with it. my first guess is that you have an over lubrication issue that has either stuck the retaining loop or caused slippage.
 
How much does it shoot to the left?
First, make sure it's not something you're doing. Next, try different ammunition and see if that makes any difference. If there isn't much windage adjustment to make, you can slightly file out the rear sight groove on one side to drift zero a little. Last resort, get a gun smith to turn the barrel slightly - this will move the front sight and your point of impact.
As for the lockwork, I have no idea. Sorry. :(
 
sounds like you broke your trigger spring, and yes it is common. Esp. if you try to fan the trigger. (found that one out the hard way) Yes they are easy to replace you just need to order a new spring, you might want to get a few while your at it. hope this helps and good luck..
 
I think the OP means the bolt is not coming back up thru the frame to engage the cylinder, locking it in alignment with the bore.

The spring could be broke, the part could be broken, or some dried/gummy oil is causing the bolt to stay in the lowered position. If the latter, then maybe some solvent allowed to soak a bit might loosen up any gummy oil.

Take out the cylinder, hold the gun upside down and see if that part, helped by gravity, falls thru the frame. If it does, then you have a broken part.

The Cimarron has no side plate, so no need to look for that.

There are many resources online that show you how to disassemble this gun. Be sure and buy some gunsmith screwdrivers first. If any parts are broken, buy spares! (Actually, if it's as common as it seems, buy spares anyway, even if this problem is caused by gummy oil)
 
Yes this is very common with SAA lockwork. You have a broken "hand" spring. Mine broke in my USFA SAA as I dy fired it with snap caps to smooth out the action a bit and it broke. The cylinder started to swing freely. Its only a matter of time when this spring breaks in an SAA. I had Longhunter install a coil spring replacement, and the problem is solved long term.
 
Yep, my bet is on the trigger/bolt spring. Actually, just had this exact thing happen to me the day before last.

I had read about the issues before getting an SAA, and had enough forethought to order a spare trigger/bolt spring, and already had a set of proper screwdrivers so the fix was easy once I realized what was going on. Now that I need a new spare, I'm thinking about going with a wire spring instead of the traditional flat spring.

I'll also guess that the "shooting left" issue is user-error, please refer to the chart in the first reply.

ETA:
Yes this is very common with SAA lockwork. You have a broken "hand" spring. Mine broke in my USFA SAA as I dy fired it with snap caps to smooth out the action a bit and it broke. The cylinder started to swing freely. Its only a matter of time when this spring breaks in an SAA. I had Longhunter install a coil spring replacement, and the problem is solved long term.

I disagree about it being the hand spring. My Uberti Cattleman already has the coil-spring hand spring and the broken bolt spring is what allowed the cylinder to spin and not lockup.
 
Thanks - it was the trigger/bolt spring. And it's easy enough to fix. I will admit it took me about 5 minutes to figure out this gun does not have a side plate.
I have a few screwdrivers from my FATWRENCH kit and I only need 2 sizes so I'm good.

Also, the gun shoots to the left, it's not me. I checked out Bob Mundens website and he will regulate the point of impact of any SAA. It cost about 60.00 though. Maybe I'll get that action job anyway. Sounds pretty cool.
 
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Gaitorbait - I think that line came from that movie where Tommy Lee Jones was a pirate. If I'm right the movie was Nate and Hayes.
 
Update - I fixed my gun.

I bought the Wolf wire type spring and installed it. It was easy.
I've got to tell you the gun is significantly sweeter now. Smoother and lighter. I've heard of wolf springs before but never tried them. I might get a set now for my S&W Mod 10.

Shoot safe -
 
Glad you got it figured out.

I visited Cimmeron back in 2001 and it was a real disappointment. Just one main road and a restaurant called "Restaurant." The historical write up said the town made news when three days went by with no one was shot and killed. It was visited by most everyone of any merit (or demerit) in the Old West. They've got a great bed and breakfast out there and a local cowboy singer by the name of R.W. Hampton (sound). I bought all of his albums.

7-1-2-aim-right.jpg
 
Just did a google map walk of the streets of Cimeron NM...yup not much there. But at least i made a visit.:)
Love google map
 
Had the same experience as OP.My gunsmith replaced the hand.He said this is common on SAA's. It shoots great now. Byron
 
I've repaired this problem at least 100 time and its always been the combo bolt/trigger spring. I've never seen a broken hand to allow freewheel cylinder but it sure costs more to fit one than replace a spring. If the hand is broke you can't spin cylinder as bolt come up and stops it.
The music wire spring (Wolf) is the best but this is a highly stressed spring and You should alway's keep a spare or 2.
 
DOH! and I made a spring for my Euroarms 1851 out of a thin wood working scraper when I could have bent one out of some music wire. Next time I'll do it the easier way. Thanks to those that posted the links to the wire springs.

If anyone wants to bend one from music wire model airplane, boat and train hobby shops typically have music wire in straight 3 foot lengths in a variety of diameters. For this application I'd suggest pick up lengths of 1/32, .045 and .055 to try. They are typically around a buck per length. Or if time isn't tight for you then order the replacements.

Lovesbeer, yes a spring kit for your model 10 will totally remake it. From my own experience I can suggest that you use the 11 lb return block spring. It's the lightest of the three options. And if it's a range only play toy then cut a coil and a half off the return block spring to futher lighten it. The double action at that point will be almost sinfully light and smooth. I've done all three of my S&W's and the transformation is nothing short of amazing.
 
BC Rider. I like a smooth double action but not too light. If the return spring is not fast enough, I can out run my gun and it throws off my timing. I'm not in comptetition, yet, but I've been practicing.
 
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