Broke two Lee 9mm decappers

[16in50calNavalRifle]

Have searched around a bit and (unsurprisingly) have not found anything on this, so thought I'd ask.

I have broken the pins on two Lee carbide 9mm decapper/sizer dies - both new; the first one after about 500 rounds, the second one (sent for free by Lee to replace the first one) after 51 more rounds. Spoke with Lee this morning and they are sending another replacement part.

There had been no issues with the first pin before it broke (the pin at the end of the piece was actually stuck into the primer/case after it broke). The replacement pin had slipped once and I needed to reset/re-tighten it prior to its failure.

Just wondering if anyone has any ideas, or experience with this issue.

I am not aware that any particular 9mm brass has issues with decapping - are there any "crimped" 9mm primer pockets? Or is there a "wrong" way to set/tighten the decapping pin within the die such that it will break?

 

[justdoit]

check for berdan primers, they are common in 9mm

 

[MrOldLude]

Yes, there is crimped-primer 9mm. http://media.photobucket.com/image/crimped primer 9mm/mnassoiy/crimpedbrass.jpg

But it should be relatively obvious if you know what a crimped primer looks like.

 

[rcmodel]

Crimped primers do not break decapping pins if all else in order.

Here are several things you can try to get them in order:

1. Sort out the Berdan brass.

2. Loosen the collet in the die that holds the pin. You want it just tight enough to deprime without slipping. But slipping instead of breaking if it hits something besides the flash hole.

3. Check your shell holder for dirt or burs under the rim that is stopping the case from centering in the die.

4. Use a Lee #6 or RCBS shell holder that actually fits & centers the 9mm case, rather then the supplied Lee #19 "universal" model that doesn't.

5. Center the die in the press. Loosen the die lock ring, then run a case up all the way so the pin is centered in the flash hole.
Then wiggle the die to center the die threads in the press threads.
Then tighten the lock ring.

If all that is done, your broken pins should become a fading memory.

rc

 

[jcwit]

Crimped primers should not break the pin.

Americ (sp) brass or other brass with the flash hole off center will do it tho. Are you using a universal decapping die where the case could be off center in the shell holder? Also as already mentioned Berdan primers?

Beat me to it rc.

 

[kingmt]

I found a Berdan case in 38spl the other day by breaking the pin & bending the rod in my RCBS.

 

[SSN Vet]

case could be off center in the shell holder

The OP said he isn't using a unniversal de-capping die....

Lee carbide 9mm decapper/sizer dies

Isn't Ie die going to center the case on it's outside diameter?

What is the head stamp on the brass that broke the pin say? My guess is that you have some Berdan brass that slipped into the mix....

Berdan brass does not have a center flash hole, but rather two very small offcenter flash holes.

 

[jmorris]

RC had the fix, back off the collet will let the pin back out before breaking.

Get a big magnet and run it over your brass before sizing. Almost all berdan cases you will come across these days is steel, you will also cull brass coated steel cases like S&B 9mm.

 

[jmorris]

NR Blazer is also berdan pockets and aluminum cases, chunk them too.

 

[rcmodel]

Isn't Ie die going to center the case on it's outside diameter?

No.

The carbide sizer die is tight on the case and will center it or size it crooked.

The expander decapper die is a looser fit on the case and won't always center a case in the shell holder until you already bent or broke a pin.

rc

 

[Scimmia]

The carbide sizer die is tight on the case and will center it or size it crooked.

The expander decapper die is a looser fit on the case and won't always center a case in the shell holder until you already bent or broke a pin.

We're talking about a sizer die, though. I've never seen a Lee expander/decapper pistol die, they all decap with the sizer die to the best of my knowledge.

The only time I've broken decapper pins is off center flash holes. I've gotten a couple of berdian cases in the mix, but they always just hit and stop, where the off center flash hole will put enough side load on the pin to break it.

 

[rcmodel]

Oh! O.K. never mind then.

I don't use that many Lee dies.

rc

 

[16in50calNavalRifle]

Many thanks to all.

It staggers the imagination, but I cannot seem to find the two cases in question (recall it has happened twice in 400 rounds).

In any case I will do most of the things rcmodel helpfully suggests - they are "no regret" steps and perhaps will help.

I will check my brass, but it would surprise me if there are any Berdans. I pick up only my own brass and have only ever bought standard brands (Federal, Winchester, Magtech, Speer, etc.). I've segregated out the S&B already for its own primer pocket issues. I'll run a magnet through and see what I come up with.

Does any commonly encountered 9mm factory ammo these days use Berdan primers?

The key thing would be getting the tightness of the decapper clamp right - such that it gives and pushes out when it encounters any sort of obstruction/problem, but punches out the normal primers.

 

[Scimmia]

Does any commonly encountered 9mm factory ammo these days use Berdan primers?

The key thing would be getting the tightness of the decapper clamp right - such that it gives and pushes out when it encounters any sort of obstruction/problem, but punches out the normal primers.

The only common factory ammo that's berdan primed that I know of is either steel or aluminum cased. For brass cases, it's usually encountered in milsurp ammo.

The tightness of the clamp can definitly help, but an off center flash hole can still break the pin. It does it by pushing sideways, not up. The real key is to stop when something doesn't feel right.

 

[JDGray]

I broke a Lee 9mm decapping pin once....It was while sizing a case from a dud round that I found. I guess not having a flash hole had a little to do with the dud, and broken pin.

 

[jmorris]

Lee bottle neck dies have the expander on the decapping pin. Their pistol dies do not, the powder drop die does the expanding (Dillon in the photo).

 

[1SOW]

I have broken several Lyman decapping rods, but never had a problem of any kind with the 9mm LEE sizing-decapping die with many many thousands of decaps. As said, adjust the decapper so it can slip if you hit a stone or other obstruction (happened twice for me).
I also agree that the Lee #19 shell holder stinks for 9mm.

It HAD to be a Berdan, off-center primer hole or a small stone lodged in the case that has broken your Lee rods.
9mm is so plentiful at the range, I only use the big name cases. WIN, FC, Speer, *-*, PPU, R&P and occassionally some Hornady. There are others also reputed to be okay: PMC, RWS ++, but I haven't tried them. Why mess around with anything else that may need magnets, drilling or reaming? Keep it simple and easy.

I recently got $136+ at the salvage yard for my damaged or other brass I don't reload.

 

[FROGO207]

I have in the past gotten some 9MM and 5.56 brass that had really small flash holes that caught the Lee decapping pin and pulled it out of the punch. This happened several times with the223/5.56 but only once with the 9MM brass. This could also cause what you are describing. I too loosen my Lee decapping punch as much as I can so it will just decap the primer. I use a universal depriming die with the military stuff now as it seems more robust. I have not destroyed a decapping pin in ages using this method.

 

[LiveLife]

Does any commonly encountered 9mm factory ammo these days use Berdan primers?

it's just not the Berdan primer cases that can break a decapping pin but really hard crimped military cases that have primers that have corroded in place. I have broken a decapping pin with such a case.

The key thing would be getting the tightness of the decapper clamp right - such that it gives and pushes out when it encounters any sort of obstruction/problem, but punches out the normal primers.

Ding Ding Ding!

I have bought 2 extra decapping pins after breaking one and have not broken one since. I adjust the collet tension so the pin will push up instead of breaking.

 

[jmorris]

9mm is so plentiful at the range, I only use the big name cases. WIN, FC, Speer, *-*, PPU, R&P and occassionally some Hornady. There are others also reputed to be okay: PMC, RWS ++, but I haven't tried them. Why mess around with anything else that may need magnets, drilling or reaming? Keep it simple and easy.

My brass sorter does not sort by head stamp, the magnet and a quick pick through for aluminum is the most simple and easy.

 

[amlevin]

Of all the decapping pins I have had break, those in my LEE dies weren't among them.

I've actually punched a new flash hole in Berdan primed brass with a lee pin.

If the collet on top of the die is tightened properly I can't see how it can break a pin.

 

[Fishslayer]

There are others also reputed to be okay: PMC, RWS ++, but I haven't tried them.

I'm one of those OCD types that even sorts his 9mm by headstamp.

Give the PMC brass a go. It's one of my favorite commercial brass to load in 9mm, .45ACP & .38/.357. In .45ACP at least it has robust, thick walls & grips a .451 bullet really well.

I use Lee carbides & have 'capped countless NATO crimped and S&B cases and have never broken a pin. I can tell when I get one tho. They give a nice "ping!" when the primer drops...

 

[coonbait]

i agree with frogo207, some foreign brass have smaller flash holes than american made. i've had it happen to me a few times. check your brass.....

 

[16in50calNavalRifle]

Again thanks for the additional tips and info. I will definitely spend some time on getting the collet adjustment right (that is, so that it does the job but will give when something unusual gets in the way). That should prevent future broken pins.

And I while take some time to rummage through my brass to see what's there besides my own factory load range pick-ups.

As for the shell holder, it's interesting to hear about the difference between the #19 (which I have, and so presumably comes standard with the 4-die carbide sets) and the #6. I have noticed - though more wtih the 38 special shell holder - that I have to make sure the case is fully seated back in the holder before I raise the ram for the expanding/powder dispensing step, and again before placing the bullet on top of the case and seating it.

But I'm thinking I will leave things that way. Just before setting the bullet is the perfect time to confirm that the powder charge is there, so having to monitor and fix the case position in the shell holder may be a useful step that will force me to check each charge.

 

[Canuck-IL]

I'm now on either the 6th or 7th Lee universal decap pin ... crimped primers or even (deliberately tested) Berdan primers weren't the issue. Off-center flash holes will do it though - not the first, nor the second ... but over a couple 100 you end up with a the pin bent at an angle. It's then only a matter of time until another off-center catches it the wrong way and snaps it. FWIW, one problem batch was PMC 223 and the other was some 308 ... I think Turk??

The tool is generally quite satisfactory ... I just keep 3 spare pins around and when 2 are broken, they go back to Lee for another pair.
/Bryan