Broken 642

Status
Not open for further replies.

blue32

Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2012
Messages
856
I had my 642 out at the range this past week and thought I would put in some dry fires because I was bored. The gun has 4,300 documented rounds through it but I figure what the heck. I go ahead and document 3,000 dry fires.

So I get something to eat and give my hands a rest. I come back a half hour later to feel the trigger. There's this new feeling. It's like a slight catch right as I depress the trigger. I pop the side plate to investigate, thinking some gunk may have been dislodged when dry firing. Much to my surprise, the post in which the hammer rests has broken off. Since this post is mounted to the frame I'm guessing this gun is done for. Might go with a small auto or steel J next time.
 

Attachments

  • 0303131653b.jpg
    0303131653b.jpg
    53.5 KB · Views: 66
  • 0303131653a.jpg
    0303131653a.jpg
    68.7 KB · Views: 90
  • 0303131653.jpg
    0303131653.jpg
    97.8 KB · Views: 99
The part that broke was steel, right?

All along I've been babying my 37 thinking the aluminum parts were most prone to breakage and looking forward to finding an all steel 36. Seems like the aluminum isn't the problem.

I agree with the others; Smith will make good on this.
 
Here's the good news Clutch,

Yes. I dry fired it again about 50 times to confirm what I was feeling and it rotated the cylinder and activated the firing pin every time. A testament to the tight fitting design no doubt. I thought about leaving it be (my hands were a bit sore), but as soon as curiosity got the best of me and that side plate came off, there was no way to center the hammer upon reassembly.

$389 for an aluminum framed revolver, replaced barrel at S&W's expense a few months ago (another problem) - not too bad after ~4 years.
 
Here's the good news Clutch,

Yes. I dry fired it again about 50 times to confirm what I was feeling and it rotated the cylinder and activated the firing pin every time. A testament to the tight fitting design no doubt. I thought about leaving it be (my hands were a bit sore), but as soon as curiosity got the best of me and that side plate came off, there was no way to center the hammer upon reassembly.

$389 for an aluminum framed revolver, replaced barrel at S&W's expense a few months ago (another problem) - not too bad after ~4 years.

I'm sorry that you have a broken gun but I learned how mine can break, a bit of reading on the net says don't dry fire it a lot, and if it feels wonky, I know what to look for and it is likely still going to work if I really need it badly right that moment. :eek:

Thanks,

Clutch
 
I've had my 642 for over 9 years. Besides finish wear, it has yet to demonstrate one problem. Send it in, they should fix it or replace it.
 
This usually (but not always) happens when someone dry fires the gun with the sideplate off. It is fixable on a steel frame, don't know about an alloy frame, but S&W will probably just replace the gun anyways
 
I am sorry your S+W broke. I guess I'm ignorant... why would you set out to dry-fire the revolver 3,000 times?
 
Smith & Wesson can fix it so far as steel-frame revolvers are concerned, but only once. After that it will require a new frame. Aluminum frames come under maybe yes, maybe no; but if they can't fix it you'll get a new frame.

The part that broke was a steel pin, not the aluminum frame, and dry-firing was not the cause. The pin (called a "stud") was flawed or cracked in the first place. This kind of failure can happen, but it's rare.

Call S&W and they will e-mail you a pre-paid shipping label. Send the revolver in and they'll fix it or replace the frame. Then they'll send it back to you, with all of this on their dime. A chance of a repeat performance is possible, but highly unlikely.
 
It will take S&W about ten minutes to replace that stud. It kind of worked for a while because the other end was supported by the sideplate.

Jim
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top