Browning a-5 won't eject shell

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tbrowning87

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A few years back I bought a pre wwII A-5 and just recently started using it to shoot some clays. But it is having some problems ejecting to shell automatically. I don't know if the recoil spring is just worn out or something like that. Just wondering if anyone had any thoughts on what the problem could be.
 
That's what my stepdad told me, so he took the gun apart and told me the rings weren't in the right order according to a diagram that he got off the internet, so he rearanged them to the order that he thought was proper and it still wouldn't eject right. So maybe I will check them over again.
Thanks
Tom Browning
 
If it is cycling and not ejecting I would take a look at the extractor. You can check the operation by removing the recoil spring and cycle the gun with empty hulls in the magazine by pulling the barrel back to the stop. If it is not cycling check the mag tube for rust and other damage, and try a different ammo. Foreign objects may have gotten back into the rails causing short cycling.
 
I suspect ammo. It is a recoil operated gun and requires a load that will function the action. I have a Mod 11 Remington, Which is your gun built on a Remington patent from Browning. I loaded some Green Dot loads and they would just dribble the hulls out if they did at all. Most of the loads would short stroke the action and re-chamber an empty hull. I switched load data and went with Herco data and they fly out of the chamber now!
 
Long recoil system

But it is having some problems ejecting to shell automatically.

For the Auto 5, Rem 11, Franchi AL48 and several others to cycle right

The reguiments are

A clean lightly oiled mag tube; Browning uses the term wet, it loosely means a little more then taking a rag with some oil on it and running that over the tube but not enough to have gooing up everything it comes near

Matching the load to the friction ring setting

I use lighter loads then normal, the way I do it is a little more envolved the most would want. when I went to the light loads I found that taking the recoil spring off the tube cleaning the tube and using a little more oil then I normally did let the action cycle the light loads, in a league night I will shoot 50 shots, if I want to shoot another 50 I need to clean the tube and reoil again before I begin otherwise The gun will act up.

One note when doing what I am doing care MUST be taking to NOT shoot a shell that is heavier then what is being used, the added recoil may work the action harder causing damage. But then again this care must be taken at all times because shooting a heavey or magnun load thru one of these shotguns set for light loads will/may cause the same damage
 
If trying to analyze that action, remember that ejection takes place when the barrel goes forward.

Jim
 
It is probably as others have stated a question of getting the friction rings and the load in synch with each other but you might want to check and make sure the ejector is still attached to the back end of the barrel. It slides on a rivet I believe at the the very end of the barrel hood.
 
The factory field service manual states the following:

6. JAMMING AND FAILS TO EJECT
A. DRY OR BURRED MAGAZINE TUBE
B. BENT MAGAZINE TUBE.
C. TIGHT FOREARM INTERFERING WITH BARREL
D. EXTRACTORS BROKEN OR OUT OF ADJUSTMENT.
E. CARRIER LATCH OUT OF ADJUSTMENT
F. BROKEN EJECTOR.
G. BENT CARRIER.
H. WEAK EXTRACTOR SPRINGS.
I. WORN CARRIER DOG.
J. WEAK RECOIL SPRING
K. REDUCTION OF RECOIL DUE TO CHOKING DEVICES WHICH HAVE A TENDENCY TO DISSIPATE RECOIL.
L. EXTRA SOFT RECOIL PADS.
M. NOT HOLDING THE GUN TIGHTLY TO THE SHOULDER WHEN FIRING.
N. BARREL EXTENSION RUBBIN IN RECEIVER. REMOVE RECOIL SPRING AND CHECK FOR FREE MOVEMENT OF BARREL.

YOU PICK ONE.
 
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