browning a5/rem 11 barrel shortening question

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Kynative

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A few days ago i picked up a remington model 11 with an 18 inch barrel. It kicks like a mule. Before im told to put on my big girl panties and suck it up could someone explain to me how lightening the barrel(by removing several inches) affects friction ring setup. The bevel is worn almost off the ring. Its currently setup with the bevel of the friction ring against the barrel and bevel on that washer against the friction ring. I was shooting 00 buck. I am almost sure it needs a recoil spring and friction ring. Makes a metallic sound when the bolt cycles and i end up with live ammo on the ground some how? Any help is greatly appreciated
 
Shortening the barrel reduces the reciprocating weight, which allows it to open sooner, cycle faster.

Were I you, I would replace all the springs and friction rings.

Then run the mag tube dry of any oil.

That will increase friction and slow it down a little.

As for the clanging and banging?

The model 11 has a fiber recoil buffer in the back of the receiver.
The Browning A5 doesn't.

Apparently yours gave up the ghost some time ago.
Replace it too.

rc
 
Get a new friction ring and set it up for heavy loads, if that doesn't work reliably, then go for light load set up. Check that the buffer is in it, that metallic sound may be the bolt hitting the receiver which is not good.
 
Thanks for the reply rc. I am getting rings and springs on the way. i detail stripped it last night. that fiber thing is there but the rivet that holds it on is showing through. It feels to me like the bolt is just hammering the receiver. I could be wrong. I may try a magnum spring if the standard doesnt work out.
 
I don't think a magnum spring is going to do anything except cause functioning problems.

The new friction peices and standard springs with a dry or semi-ry tube should slow it down enough to prevent the hammering.

A dryed and worn out buffer isn't doing anything good though.

rc
 
Well, Judging from some of the PM's I get occasionally.
It seems I'm either everyones favorite person.

Or the most hated person on THR.

Glad you sided with me this time!!

Just glad to help whenever I can.

rc
 
My old Rem 11 that I was given by my father was already well used at the time with a bulged barrel over 50 years ago. It quit on me a few years ago while shooting trap. It had a cork buffer that finally deteriorated and came apart which gummed up the receiver. It was my deer/dove/quail/squirrel gun for all my life. Went to fix it and discovered for the first time that there was a such thing as a friction ring. I always new the ring was there but didn't understand its function. Replacing the pad is doable but it is a tough little job as there are no instructions out there on just how to do it. THR saved me. The friction ring has always been kept well oiled and was set for light loads, forever. My repair job has now made me understand the importance of installing the friction ring correctly, but has made me realize just how good/strong this old workhorse is.
 
Ayuh...Betting that the buffer is shot, and that if you continue to fire, you will crack the receiver...

Also, with that light barrel, run the rings on a completely dry mag tube...No oil...
 
The buffer is kinda easy to do. I get mine and the rivets at SARCO. Pry the old one off. Use a taper reamer, the long kind, not the 45 degree one, and lightly open on both sides. Place it over the existing rivet. I use a piece of round dowel like a broom handle through the front of the receiver. Tap this lightly to see where the rivet contacts the back side. Open it up with the reamer a little more to the rivet side. If the rivet has a decided edge to one side then you may be able to lightly file the rivet. If not open the hole a little more to the side you need clearance on. Now you take your dowel and drill a hole in the end of it to go over the rivet. Not bigger than 1/4" diameter. Put the buffer in, put the dowel over it and smack it with a hammer. 16 oz hammer is okay. If you want you can put Acra Glass gel mixture in to help hold it or Poly Choke rib holding glue. Any glue that doesn't get glass hard. Even silicon gasket sealer as it doesn't react to solvents like other glues. There you are done. If you don't do this the bolt handle can travel back and dent the slot in the receiver on the bolt handle way. Also, the bolt can crack then you are in for it. I have a barrel extension that I use to line things up and do this with some other home made tools. Also, Roy Dunlap covers this in his excellent book on gunsmithing. By the way I have never had to replace a rivet, yet..........

You can get a lot of combinations with friction system. Basic for heavy is recoil spring in place and shotgun in vertical (up) position: solid ring with bevel (inside bevel) to the top. If you have the old friction ring then the the taper on the exterior goes down facing the spring. Then put the bronze/brass friction piece on with the bevel to the top as this fits in the barrel lug. Lighter loads you move the friction ring between the receiver and recoil spring with the bevel facing the receiver.

You can also play around with a magnum or standard spring from an A5 or you can go to the 15 coil Rem. spring. You can play around with the magnum A5 friction pieces also. Just go heavy and then lighten them up. Remington springs are all flat or square coil and have 15 or 20 coils, both work. If you hear the action you may have the 15 coil spring and should go to the 20 coil or the A5 standard spring. If the barrel locks up with this spring then you need to run a friction ring between the receiver and spring in addition to one on the other end. I have a lot of play time with the Rem. 11 and the A5.
L-
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkiGWd6ot84

This will help you on the friction piece arrangement. IF you decide to take yours apart then be careful as the receiver is razor sharp where the trigger housing rests. Also, replace the action spring and the action spring plug and maybe the pin. This should be replaced periodically anyway. The new plug is plastic and does not rot or crumble like the old wooden style. If you insist on the wooden style then SARCO had them a few months ago. I use the Browning A5 and plug on the Remington model 11's.

If you really want to make the Model 11 modern then install the two piece carrier and carrier spring in it to make it easy to load.

L-
 
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