Over the years of doing firearm repair one see's patterns of failures caused by the same thing occuring over and over.
Such is the case with recoil operated shotguns . So a little background and a couple tips for those who use, but are not all that familiar with, recoil operated shotguns.
Examples of this type of automatic operating system are guns like the Browning Auto 5 , Remington Model 11 , Remington Model 11-48 , Savage 720 .
Every year a number of these guns come in for repair because they failed to eject the empty . It would either remain in the chamber or only be partialy ejected and hanging in the action or the ejection port. Here are some tips to not only prevent this malfunction, but to save wear and tear on your gun , and your shoulder.
You first should understand the mechanics of the recoil operated gun. In order to operate the shooting cycle the gun has a floating barrel that moves rearward during the shooting cycle. When the shell goes off the bolt is locked to the barrel and the pressure of the exploding gases drives both the barrel and the bolt to the rear (recoil) . As the bolt travels farther to the rear it unlocks from the barrel. This sends the barrel back into its home position (under the tension of the recoil spring) as the bolt completes its rearward travel which will eject the empty through the ejection port , and allow a fresh round to be fed upward into the chamber on its return forward stroke powered by the action spring.
Now to the control of this function : In order for this cycle to be smooth, and in control, the mechanism employs a friction control eliment. It does this via a bronze friction piece and friction ring working to act as a brake . This system sits on the front part of the magazine tube, forward of the large recoil spring (under the forearm) . It is acted on by the barrel lug as the barrel travels to the rear during the shooting cycle. Different guns use slightly different set-ups but all recoil operated guns use this friction method of controling the shooting cycle.
Keeping this in mind , if the friction system causes too much braking it will slow the cycle and cause malfuncions by not allowing the barrel & or bolt assy to travel rearward at sufficant speed or force , or length of travel to eject the empty shell and complete the shooting cycle.
The fix for this is typically to clean the inner surface of the bronze friction ring as well as the surface it rides on for braking - which is the outside of the magazine tube. Then apply a couple drops of oil to the magazine tube - spread it over the tube with your hand or rag for a very thin.small amount of lubrication . This will generaly get the gun back into action.
Now more information : Knowing how this system works you must pay attention to not only malfunctions due to excess braking in the friction system, but must also make sure there is enough friction to keep the action from hammering/slamming . Simply put , if there is no braking or not enough braking, you will pound your gun to pre-mature death and your shoulder as well.
To assure proper braking you first must pay attention to the load you are shooting. It is obvious that a heavy field load will apply more pressure to the system than say a dove and quail load. And then of course there are the magnum loads. Guns like the A-5 Browning have been made in 3 inch magnum versions. If you read through your manuel and view your magnum guns, you will notice that the magnum guns have included a second bronze friction piece and friction rings. The second friction piece is there to aid in braking when using magnum loads. You should make sure you understand the proper placement of the friction rings and make sure the concave portion of the friction ring is facing the bronze friction piece. Driving the bronze piece into the tapper of the concave friction ring sqeezes the bronze piece tighter onto the magazine tube causing friction. Instructions for the magnum guns friction system is also generaly posted inside the forearm on a paper label.
The Remington Model 11 was not made to shoot magnum loads . Light loads were meant to be fired with the friction ring stored next to the reciever to the rear of the recoil spring with the concave part of the ring facing rearward. If heavy loads are to be used, then the friction ring is moved to the forward side of the recoil spring between the spring and the bronze friction piece with the concave surface facing the bronze friction ring.. If your buying a Model 11 you should look carefully for damage caused by using magnum loads in the gun. It starts with the distruction of the 1/8 inch thick fiber buffer that is located on the inside rear of the reciver. This is a buffer for the rear of the bolt. When distroyed the bolt will then make contact with the rear of the receiver - metal to metal - and then finish by cracking the bolt typically on the rear left side. ( a crack that can't be seen unless you disassemble the gun) If the fiber buffer is still intact, the bet is that the bolt is OK, if not - proceed with caution on a purchase.
This same problem can be seen on Browning, but they use a different buffer system and are more durable. I have seen them with cracked bolts however, so keep that in mind. A gun that slaps or slams when fired needs to be addressed. Worn friction pieces can cause problems and they should be changed before they wear out. This bronze ring should have a clear and visable split in the ring when in position. If not, there is no clearance for the bronze ring to sqeeze down onto the magazine tube creating needed braking.
Bottom Line : Control the friction, and you control the function. You can control the friction by making sure the bronze friction piece is not worn out , making sure the system is cleaned and very lightly lubed ( too much lube - not enough braking ) ( too little lube - too much braking )
Balance the system to the load you are using and the gun will shoot reliably and with less recoil .
Such is the case with recoil operated shotguns . So a little background and a couple tips for those who use, but are not all that familiar with, recoil operated shotguns.
Examples of this type of automatic operating system are guns like the Browning Auto 5 , Remington Model 11 , Remington Model 11-48 , Savage 720 .
Every year a number of these guns come in for repair because they failed to eject the empty . It would either remain in the chamber or only be partialy ejected and hanging in the action or the ejection port. Here are some tips to not only prevent this malfunction, but to save wear and tear on your gun , and your shoulder.
You first should understand the mechanics of the recoil operated gun. In order to operate the shooting cycle the gun has a floating barrel that moves rearward during the shooting cycle. When the shell goes off the bolt is locked to the barrel and the pressure of the exploding gases drives both the barrel and the bolt to the rear (recoil) . As the bolt travels farther to the rear it unlocks from the barrel. This sends the barrel back into its home position (under the tension of the recoil spring) as the bolt completes its rearward travel which will eject the empty through the ejection port , and allow a fresh round to be fed upward into the chamber on its return forward stroke powered by the action spring.
Now to the control of this function : In order for this cycle to be smooth, and in control, the mechanism employs a friction control eliment. It does this via a bronze friction piece and friction ring working to act as a brake . This system sits on the front part of the magazine tube, forward of the large recoil spring (under the forearm) . It is acted on by the barrel lug as the barrel travels to the rear during the shooting cycle. Different guns use slightly different set-ups but all recoil operated guns use this friction method of controling the shooting cycle.
Keeping this in mind , if the friction system causes too much braking it will slow the cycle and cause malfuncions by not allowing the barrel & or bolt assy to travel rearward at sufficant speed or force , or length of travel to eject the empty shell and complete the shooting cycle.
The fix for this is typically to clean the inner surface of the bronze friction ring as well as the surface it rides on for braking - which is the outside of the magazine tube. Then apply a couple drops of oil to the magazine tube - spread it over the tube with your hand or rag for a very thin.small amount of lubrication . This will generaly get the gun back into action.
Now more information : Knowing how this system works you must pay attention to not only malfunctions due to excess braking in the friction system, but must also make sure there is enough friction to keep the action from hammering/slamming . Simply put , if there is no braking or not enough braking, you will pound your gun to pre-mature death and your shoulder as well.
To assure proper braking you first must pay attention to the load you are shooting. It is obvious that a heavy field load will apply more pressure to the system than say a dove and quail load. And then of course there are the magnum loads. Guns like the A-5 Browning have been made in 3 inch magnum versions. If you read through your manuel and view your magnum guns, you will notice that the magnum guns have included a second bronze friction piece and friction rings. The second friction piece is there to aid in braking when using magnum loads. You should make sure you understand the proper placement of the friction rings and make sure the concave portion of the friction ring is facing the bronze friction piece. Driving the bronze piece into the tapper of the concave friction ring sqeezes the bronze piece tighter onto the magazine tube causing friction. Instructions for the magnum guns friction system is also generaly posted inside the forearm on a paper label.
The Remington Model 11 was not made to shoot magnum loads . Light loads were meant to be fired with the friction ring stored next to the reciever to the rear of the recoil spring with the concave part of the ring facing rearward. If heavy loads are to be used, then the friction ring is moved to the forward side of the recoil spring between the spring and the bronze friction piece with the concave surface facing the bronze friction ring.. If your buying a Model 11 you should look carefully for damage caused by using magnum loads in the gun. It starts with the distruction of the 1/8 inch thick fiber buffer that is located on the inside rear of the reciver. This is a buffer for the rear of the bolt. When distroyed the bolt will then make contact with the rear of the receiver - metal to metal - and then finish by cracking the bolt typically on the rear left side. ( a crack that can't be seen unless you disassemble the gun) If the fiber buffer is still intact, the bet is that the bolt is OK, if not - proceed with caution on a purchase.
This same problem can be seen on Browning, but they use a different buffer system and are more durable. I have seen them with cracked bolts however, so keep that in mind. A gun that slaps or slams when fired needs to be addressed. Worn friction pieces can cause problems and they should be changed before they wear out. This bronze ring should have a clear and visable split in the ring when in position. If not, there is no clearance for the bronze ring to sqeeze down onto the magazine tube creating needed braking.
Bottom Line : Control the friction, and you control the function. You can control the friction by making sure the bronze friction piece is not worn out , making sure the system is cleaned and very lightly lubed ( too much lube - not enough braking ) ( too little lube - too much braking )
Balance the system to the load you are using and the gun will shoot reliably and with less recoil .
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