Browning Auto 5

[tark]

Is that covered in the manual?

My A-5 was made in 76 and there is a decal on the inside of the forearm explaining the positioning of the ring. Don't know if all A-5s had this. Trouble is, it doesn't last long before the cycling of the gun usually renders it illegible.

 

[hdwhit]

CaptCurt wrote:
The trick is to tighten the magazine cap snug and then back it off a click or two.

Thank you.

I'm guessing my father-in-law knew that because the gun has clearly seen a lot of use but the forearm is totally sound. But I'm glad you told me, because what my father-in-law might have known didn't make it to me.

 

[hdwhit]

tark wrote:
Trouble is, it doesn't last long before the cycling of the gun usually renders it illegible.

That's the situation with this one. There is a yellowing paper label inside the forearm that has enough visible to clearly be showing the spring around the magazine tube, but making out exactly what it says is beyond me. Hopefully, it will be covered in the manual.

 

[hdwhit]

Blkhrt13 wrote:
Likely the choke is very tight on it. No slugs or steel.

Thank you for the warning.

I've alerted my wife that the next used bedsheet needs to come to me rather than go to charity.

 

[hdwhit]

natman wrote:
Adjust the friction rings as shown on Browning's website and lubricate the mag tube properly. This means put a couple of drops of gun oil (not your super slick teflon / moly / graphite oil) on a patch and lightly wipe down the exterior of the tube. This will provide the right amount of friction while keeping the bare steel from rusting.

Thank you for the caution.

I still maintain all my guns using a supply of Sears Household Oil (their packaging of 3-in-1) that I bought back in the 1970's. The cans don't have UPC codes on them and physical price stickers and I'm finally on my last can, but it still flows and still has the correct color and smell and nothing maintained with it in the last nearly 40 years has rusted or malfunctioned.

 

[hdwhit]

NatureBoy wrote:
It was my first major purchase as a young man. Saved up my lawn mowing and bus boy money to buy it. (1979). I want to say it was over $500 back then. Not cheap

I remember looking at the Sears Catalog back in the 1970's for shotguns and not understanding why the Brownings were so expensive, especially when the Ted Williams pump shotguns were so much more affordable.

Spent it's whole life duck hunting the swamps and marshes of South Louisiana. Not a fleck of rust anywhere on that gun.

Well, keeping a gun rust free in the humidity of southern Louisiana is quite an accomplishment.

 

[Rudolph31]

A couple of observations.

Over-tightening the Mag Cap is a problem. I’ve never heard of backing off a couple of clicks but it probably can’t hurt. But forearms crack when the cap is too loose. Make it hand tight by retracting the barrel an inch, then tighten. And repeat every dozen or so shots, caps can loosen all by themselves.

John Browning recommended a few drops of 30 weight motor oil for the mag tube. One quart will last forever.

 

[Deltaboy1984]

I got a model 11 in 16 gauge by Remington in the 1950's.

 

[hdwhit]

Rudolph31 wrote:
But forearms crack when the cap is too loose. Make it hand tight by retracting the barrel an inch, then tighten.

Thanks.

The gun is old. I don't know how old, but my wife remembers it being around the house when she was a girl, so 40 to 50 years is possible. The forearm is intact and solid. Whatever my father-in-law did with it, worked. Unfortunately, he can't tell me what he did because while he remembers owning "a gun like that", it doesn't register with him that "he owned this gun".

 

[gotmine]

My A5 came to me from my paternal grandfather and it was bought by him long ago. Of course the handguard is cracked. According to the serial research I've managed to do it was produced in 1928. The varnish has softened and lends itself to scratching easily. Overall the bluing is very good with light hard to see rust etching in a few spots on the receiver.
You've a fine tool which should last another lifetime or two. The friction ring adjustment info is in that download because that's where I came across it allowing a bucking bronc to become a smooth reliable ride.

 

[ClemY]

I just bought a “new” Remington Model 11, made in 1947 or ‘48, to go with my 1942 vintage 11 and ’89 vintage Auto 5. It is obvious Remington never intended the Model 11 to be detail stripped. Both mine were missing the groove the Auto 5 has on the right side of the receiver to drive out the locking latch pin. I need to remove it to replace the locking block latch with the one for the two piece carrier to get the speed load feature of the Auto 5. I have installed those parts in my older 11. Now I will put it in this one, too.

I will use the most appropriate one with an extended mag for 3-gun.

 

[ClemY]

I received the parts to convert the Model 11 from 1 piece carrier to 2 piece. It was a drop in mod. It seems to work just fine. Will make loading on the clock in 3-gun matches much simpler.

 

[eastbank]

my A-5 is a 12mag with a 32" barrel made in 1972 in ex condition, I bought it at a flea market and the seller said was missing some parts. after looking it over I bought it and took it to my gunsmith, telling him to check it out and replace any parts it may need. he called two days later to tell me to come pick it up and the bill was 20 dollars for the friction rings to let it shoot 3" mags. when it was set up for 2-3/4 shells they must have misplaced the added rings. I have a grand total of 320.00 in it. eastbank.