Build it myself 1911

Build my own 1911?

  • Go for it! It'll be a family heirloom you'll keep forever.

    Votes: 27 36.5%
  • NO! Waste of time and money, it'll never work right.

    Votes: 8 10.8%
  • YES! Waste of time and money but it'll be fun!

    Votes: 35 47.3%
  • Spend the money on food clothing and shelter instead.

    Votes: 4 5.4%

  • Total voters
    74
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Sisco

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Joined
Dec 24, 2002
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Location
KS
Show of hands, who has built their own 1911?
I've got the bug and think I want to do it. I've got Kunhausen vol 1 on it's way and I've been mining the net. Read all the posts I could find at 1911forum.com but seeking even more knowledge and input.
At first I thought about one of the Detonics frame and slide kits from Numrich but after seeing some actual photos changed my mind. That and the "Detonics only" parts required (like mags & grips) put me off.
Now I'm thinking a MilSpec replica full size. Essex or Caspian frame, slide to be determined, find all the parts I can for as econmically as possible.
Whattaya think?
 
I couldn't vote for any of your choices because I have thought about doing what you are setting out to do and I'd go about it differently.

If I ever decide to tackle the project, I will go about it in one of two ways: Way one would be to buy the biggest project gun I could find at a gun show that has an obviously unaltered frame made by Colt and buy it. Preferably it would be Series 70 or earlier, have an old school grip safety, and be inexpensively acquired.

If the frame is sound, I'd buy it and see if it worked as is. If it works great, if not, get it professionally diagnosed after replacing the recoil spring, magazine, and tuning the extractor. If it works after tweaking, then I'd strip that pistol down to the frame and white metal.

From that foundation, I'd go shopping for non-MIM parts that didn't cost too much, that I could butcher without crying over it. Keeping the frame only, I'd find out if I could rebuild a shooter. Buy a slide from Colt, buy a Bar-Sto that requires minor fitting, etc. Fit a beavertail and cut the frame using a jig and all the other massaging using your Kunhausen specs and reference parts where possible. If you succeed in building a shooter, get it parkerized and keep it. If you found the project rewarding and something you would bet your life on, build a full blown, no expense spared custom.

If you go that route, which wouldn't be for the faint of heart for a novice, go with the highest quality components you can get, even if you have to buy them a few at a time. The second way would be to take a class over at Cylinder & Slide and learn to do while having access to his shop. I'd use:

Caspian frame and slide.
Wilson, Brown or other "name manufactured" top-of-the-line guaranteed small parts.
Nowlin or Bar-sto barrel
Videcki trigger.
C&S Spring steel extractor
Wolff springs throughout
Tuned to high quality mags.
If you want checkering, contract it out, same for the finish.

That's why I didn't vote. If you are not going to go all out and acquire the skills to do it right, and then try and make an heirloom out of the eventual weapon, you are goofing off and wasting money you might have been better off busting downrange in something that works and looks nice.

Many factors keep me from doing this project. Lack of machining tools is one. I have no micrometers or other precision measuring devices. This is not a job for a dremel and a guess or fifty. Lack of time, lack of knowledge, the list goes on. I think I'd rather commission someone to do it and have it done right.
 
The second way would be to take a class over at Cylinder & Slide and learn to do while having access to his shop.
Checked into that. t
Cylinder & Slide 1911 Course:
$500 fee
$650 worth of tools
Another $650 worth of stuff you have to buy from C&S.
All that on top of transportation, meals & motels. If I had that kind of money I'd go buy a Valtro.
Not planning on quitting my day job to become a gunsmith, just expand my skills and have fun with a hobby.
I don't want a race gun, I don't want a piece that makes everyone OOH and Aaah when they see it.
I want something that functions as a knockabout general purpose range gun and I can say I did it myself.
 
I don't want a race gun, I don't want a piece that makes everyone OOH and Aaah when they see it.

Being brutally honest?

I've seen plenty of home-'smithed 1911's. Many of which were ordered with custom S/N's commemorating the owner's birthday, anniversary, or birthday of a favorite child.

I usually see them when the owner brings them into the shop to have our 'smith turn this assemblage of parts flying in a loose formation into a functioning firearm. Unless you are fairly good with tools and have a decently equipped home shop, think long and hard before taking this plunge. It's a lot easier to end up with an heirlump instead of an heirloom. :uhoh:
 
Find a source for Damascus steel slides, and frames if possible. I plan to do that - someday - when I "build my own."
 
I built one from a Norinco slide and frame. I still need to lower the ejection port, flair the mag well, and cut the slide for new sights but alas, I do not have a mill. Probably gets a trip to Gun Doc in the next few months.

GT
 
Home Built 1911

Howdy Sisco,

It depends on what you expect the results to be. If you want hand-fitted
everything just so...Tamara gave you some good advice. If you want a
decent shooter that you can trust..it's doable.

The notion that it takes a master pistolsmith to put a functional 1911 together isn't exactly true. Keep in mind that all the entry-level...and
many of the "upgraded" pistols...are assembled from select-fit, drop-in
parts with very little fitting involved. If everything is in spec, or very close
to that, you should be able to pull it off pretty easily. What you will wind up with is a pistol that has better small parts, and probably a better slide/frame fit than what you can go out and buy for about the same money, or maybe a little less.

While I've built a few good pistols on Essex frames and slides, I don't
recommend them for the first-time builder. Sometimes hole locations and
other dimensions are a little on the high or low side of tolerance, and can
cause some headaches unless you know what to look for., and what to do about it. Pop for the extra bucks and go with Caspian. They sell a whole line of parts to build your own, and the chances of getting everything to work is much better than buying a gaggle of parts from all over creation.

Read Kuhnhausen's manuals and read them again. Study everything closely until you can imagine yourself as a millimeter tall and watching the
gun function in slow-motion. Understanding HOW it works will help you to determine why something isn't working as it's supposed to.

Ask questions...both here and at the elbow of a pistolsmith who knows 1911s. They're not really all that complicated, but there are little things to be on the lookout for. Basic troubleshooting is essential to identifying a
functional problem and correcting it without correcting the wrong thing.

If possible, get friendly with a known 1911 smith and ask for help. Make sure that he understands that you're building a one-time gun for yourself, and don't intend to try to cut into his business. Most are very helpful, but
they tend to be territorial. If he trusts you, he may even let you watch while he sets one up.

My ex-wife's oldest boy approached me about building a pistol last year.
I suggested that he do it...and he did. I built one for me while he watched, and he built one for himself while I supervised. He was careful and patient, and he has himself a nice Commander clone that is completely reliable, and nicely done. Nothing fancy...it looks pretty much like a
WW2 GI would look if they had been built in Commander-length. It's
as accurate as it needs to be for any reasonable general-purpose use,
and more accurate than most NRM Colts or Mil-Spec Springfields. It hasn't
missed a beat in nearly 5,000 rounds, and he's turned down several offers
for the gun for more than he has in it.

Understand that you'll probably kill a few parts...mostly small ones. There
isn't a smith alive who hasn't had that happen. That's part of it. If you don't, you will eventually. See...there just ain't any such thing as building
ONE pistol. It's addictive. Ask me how I know...:rolleyes: :D

If you decide to go for it, I'll help in any way that I can. There are several
good pistolsmiths who hang around here. Jim Keenan is a savvy 1911 man
who knows the ropes. Fuff is being modest, but he tipped his hand on several occasions, so there are people who will answer your questions and
put you on the right path. There are others who keep very quiet, but I've
noticed a few who know more than they're admitting to. You know who you are, guys.:scrutiny:

Good luck with it! Standin' by...
Tuner
 
I built an M1911 from a Fed Ord kit -- and I got a functioning gun from it, but only after a lot of work and replacing some of the parts.

If you want to know an M1911 intimately, go for it. But don't expect it to be cheaper or better than buying a stock Springfield or Kimber.
 
decent shooter that you can trust
That's what I'm after. No way am I kidding myself into believing I could build anything more at this point.
I'm pretty good with tools and most equipment I don't have I have access to. There are some pretty talented machinists where I work and they are gun friendly people. I kinda live in the boonies so working directly with a smith isn't possible.
I'm not in a big hurry to get this done either, figure on collecting parts here & there rather than try to get them all at once in order to spread the expense out and get quality parts.
 
The C&S class m,ight be expensive, but it intrigues me nonetheless. As they say, once acquired, no one can take the knowledge away from you. . . .
 
To recap from an earlier thread:

Some observations:

1) "No gunsmithing required" means "Some gunsmithing required".

2) "Some gunsmithing required" means "Bring money".

3) "Gunsmith fitting recommended" means "Are you sure you want to buy this part?".

4) "Match grade" means "Hope you got a machine shop in the basement, bro".

5) "Mil Spec" means "My cousin's brother's stepson's best friend told him that he saw a pic of this part on a Lower Slobbovian mercenary's gun in a back issue of Soldier of Fiction once".

6) On the other hand, sometimes "drop-in" means that the part should have enough clearance to be "dropped in" from across the room and will rattle around in your gun like a BB in a box car.

7) "Oversize" really means "Max. spec."

8) Unless it's from Marvel, in which case "Oversize" means "Hope you got a machine shop in the basement, bro". (Or a twelve-pound sledge. Whichever.)

9) A pin that is "oversize" on a Colt may fall right through a Painted Ordnance.

10) Once you go Bo-Mar, you'll never go back.

11) Because you can't. At least, not without a lot of iffy welding and grinding.

:D
 
Hmmm... I bought a Delta Elite, found 10mm to be great, but a bit expensive for IPSC shooting, so I built up a 45 ACP top end for it. This was a relatively inexpensive way to get two 1911's. I had an old receiver collecting dust, so I bought all the parts required to turn it into a Commander, had it not been for already possessing the reciever, it would have been less expensive and a lot less trouble to just buy one. I am tempted to build another, but with prices where they are now, it is often less expensive to buy than to build. This was not the case years ago when Colt was the only 1911 producer.
 
On the Cheap

Usually cheaper to buy, for sure...but when you build, YOU get to choose
the parts instead of a bean counter tryin' to save a dime by usin'
stuff supplied by the lowest bidder. We usually get what we pay for
in the final analysis...

Tamara...ROFL on your last post. Yep.

HOWEVER...Nothin' ventured, nothin' gained, so they say...:cool:
 
OK, now I'm browsing the Brownells catalog looking at all the 1911 pieces/parts.
Got this little tiny 1911Tuner sitting on one shoulder saying "Umm, nice!"
NudgeNudge.gif

Got this little tiny Tamara on the other shoulder saying "You'll be soorrrry!"
Angel.gif


:D
 
Do not buy cheap parts, I built one using a Sarco parts kit and it was a constant nightmare of problems (the whole fire control group had to be replaced, the only parts left from the Sarco kit are the grip bushings, trigger, slide, firing pin, barrel, bushing and mainspring housing). Buy quality stuff the first time around and save yourself a lot of trouble.

Kharn
 
If you trust yourself go for it. I don't trust myself enough to build my own pistola, but then again I'm a greasemonkey, not a gunsmith.

The biggest thing I've ever done to any of mine is change and tune an extractor. However, the hardest thing I did was chage grip bushings on my Para Companion (I hate red locktight!!!).
 
Caspian is a nice choice for major parts... they will fit the frame and slide for you and do all the dovetail cuts and so forth for you, too. Since you probably don't have a whole machine shop handy, that's important.
 
Dittos

Good advice by Sean. For the 3 critical trigger group parts, I'd contact Dane Burns over on Pistolsmith.com forum. His matched sets are very good, albeit a little more pricey than prepping your own and fitting, but
it will be a lot simpler and with less potential for having to adjust things
to get correct function. 99.9% of the time, Dane's trigger group will drop into a Caspian frame without much ado. He can give you more specific details, and he's ready to do what he can to help.

Luck!

Tuner
 
I tell people that there are tasks, and projects.

Installing a barrel is a task. Changing calibers is a project:D

Double Eagle Commanders in .40 S&W are long term committments
:rolleyes:

I too want a Caspian Damascus slide, but for now I want to acquire a couple more 10mm's.:D
 
Been there, done that! Essex SS frame, Essex blued slide, Colt barrel, GI & commercial guts. You will, without question learn more about the functioning of the 1911 than by reading of any magazine or book, ever. I used the USGI Technical Manual, Hallocks, another pamphlet for reference. My all means, do it.
 
Go for it! I had my personal 'smith to build me one a
few years ago, starting from scratch. He used a new
Safari Arms frame, and mated all Colt part's too it.
As it turned out, that was a darn fine weapon; a
.45 caliber tack driver, if you will. My price = $400,
and NO paper trail. Too bad I didn't have sense
enough to keep it; as the 'smith* was so proud
of his work, that he bought it back at a slightly
higher price!

*FootNote- proud, cuz he didn't intend on selling
it in the first place; as he built it for himself.

Best Wishes,
Ala Dan, N.R.A. Life Member
 
A Caveat

Ken Hallock has some good info in is little paperback, and the mag follower
template is indispensible for correcting follower-related magazine problems,
but he advises the reader to grind off the dimple on the follower...he calls it a "pip"...Don't do it. You'll be sorry if your do.

Cheers!
Tuner
 
Home built 1911

Go for it Sisco. Forget the Essex frame go Caspian frame and slide if possible. The difference in quality is amazing. I'm 95% done with my Essex frame but will not be able to begin my slide until April due to prior time commitments. You will learn so much if you'll commit to learning it and just put the frustration behind you cause you will experience frustration I assure you. The vast majority of the frustration of which I speak has been brought on by the Essex slide I'm using. Go Caspian!!!!
 
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