Building a secure display case - advice?

[campergeek]

I'm banging around in my head the idea of building a case that will securely house my C&R arms, yet allow me to display them when I so choose. I'm not trying to make this as secure or protective as a safe, but I do want it to be a reasonable deterrent to someone looking for easy access to the arms. Here's my idea:

1st, I'll get a box constructed (I don't weld) of ~ 1/8" steel plate which is 8' long, 4' tall and 1' deep. The front would have a 2" steel frame. Inside that steel frame will be tracks for two sliding plexiglass or security glass doors, which will be secured with a lock as is used on the sliding glass in display cases. The tracks will be inside the steel frame.

The inside and outside of the box will be clad with oak (1/4" oak plywood and hardwood trim), giving the appearance of a wood case. The sliding doors will be covered with a pair of bifold doors which can fold to the sides for display, or close and lock to keep the collection out of sight. The whole thing will sit on top of a locking chest of drawers used for ammo storage.

Inside, the guns can be displayed by mounting on the back wall. I'm also considering putting in vertical racks on each end, angled so that one rifle does not hide the one behind it.

Any thoughts on the general design or size of such a cabinet? Also, while I plan to talk to a local shop about the welding, does anyone have any idea what constructing such a box might cost?

 

[4v50 Gary]

If you live in a large city, check out the museum wall cases. You may be able to get a used one from your museum like I did. A museum here had one that had a samurai sword scabbard. I talked to them & got it. Fits a rifle nicely.

 

[Kodiak AK]

I would not use the slideing doors . That is easy to pop off trak if you know how . I would use an internal hinge and a solid piece of plexi .

 

[J Jones]

Taking the bolts out of the rifles and keeping the separate would be a good idea for less-than-secure storage. Possibly running heavy gauge steel (coated?) cable through the triggerguards to discourage unplanned forced break-ins (as opposed to thieves smart enough to bring a bolt-cutter).

 

[artherd]

Use 1/2" or thicker (better yet 1" thick) LEXAN or Polycarbonate. This stuff is used in bulletproof laminates.

Make sure it is constructed by routing out a channel, then adhesiveing in. You can build the entire box out of 100% clear this way if you are careful.

 

[Greg L]

Keeping the bolts locked up in the safe is what I do with my wall hangers. I'm thinking of building a rack that wraps around my stairwell (up about 9' from the floor). If I do that I'll probably also run a coated cable through the trigger guards & eyebolt it to the studs on either end.

Greg

 

[Leatherneck]

Second what artherd said. Plexiglas is weak and vulnerable to scratches. Lexan or poly would be better; that stuff is TUFF! Plate glass would work too. Also think the coated cable thru the trigger guards and anchored/locked to the steel/wood casing would be a good idea.

TC
TFL Survivor

 

[tcsd1236]

I recall a few years ago one of the gun mags like Guns Magazine profiled a company that made their safes out of bullet resistent glass and wood covering steel frames. I suppose if THEY did it, you should be able to do somemthig similar.

 

[campergeek]

If anyone has a line on a product like tcsd1236 described, I'd love to contact such a company for a catalog. Today I did some internet pricing of just the front windows, and It's quickly becoming clear that I will be able to buy a decent safe for much less than it would cost me to build this case.

 

[tcsd1236]

If I get a chance, I will dig back through my back issues. Theres a reason I save all those years worth of certain magazines!

 

[tcsd1236]

I found the article; from the September 1996 issue if Guns Magazine. I know its been a while, so who knows if this company still exists. The product is ( or was ) called The Crystal Vault. It was produced by Security Displays LLC POB 743 Greencastle IN 46135 1-800-678-SAFE.

 

[Zach S]

Even though I work in sheetmetal, I do punch .125" lexan on occasion and its easily scratched, not as easy as plexiglass though. I'm not reccomending against lexan, I reccomend putting a peice of plate glass over it.

Since I work in sheetmetal I've thought about doing the same think with an 11 guage (.120" thick) case and 8 sheets of .125" thick Lexan for a door (since I can get .125" through work easily, but I cant for 1"). Never really put a lot of thought into before though.