Building AR15 - is it worth it anymore?

[blackd24]

I was thinking a fun project this winter would be to build an AR15. Maybe use a few more premium parts than I’ve done in the past. I put together 5 or 6 lowers, sold off a few during the height of the pandemic and now I’m looking for another rifle build. I currently have 2 ARs - one has a viper 4-16, 18 inch barrel. The other is a “cheap” PSA with a strike fire for about $600 total. To keep this relatively short, I’ll cut to the chase. I’ve always like Aero precision M4E1, I even had a 300 blackout pistol for a few months - fit, finish excellent for my needs. I’d like to build an aero lower and upper in 223.

Larue trigger - $125 (I remember not so long ago these were $90)
Stripper upper - $80
Stripped lower - $90
BA premium series barrel 223 Wylde - $153
MFT stock - $60
Charging handle - $60
Aero BCG - $115
Parts kit - $100
Custom dust cover - $25
Muzzle device VG6 - $43
PSA SABRE handguard - $130

By the time I buy everything it’s just under $1000.

PSA is selling complete lowers for $125 free shipping and $330 uppers free shipping. Add a better grip and stock for $80 and it’s less than $550.

On top of that, the new PSA sabres are right around $1000 and have all the basic upgrades that one would do on a build.

I’m a little discouraged and I’m going in circles if the build is worth it. I don’t want to buy a rifle outright because the enjoyment of this is putting it together.

Am I thinking about this the right way? The parts I listed - am I getting more rifle than the PSA Sabre, for example? And worth spending more than $600 on complete upper/lower, 2 pins and go?

 

[Mosin Bubba]

This is a hobby. Spending money to have fun is what it's all about.

 

[Hillbilly Hydrographics]

If your gonna spend the same building as you would buying. And you say the enjoyment for you is building the rifles. I think there's your answer. Build you exactly what you want and enjoy the process. I've built most of the AR style firearms I've had and have. And some I might have saved a little money when stuff was cheaper then now. And some I could have bought a comparable rifle cheaper then my build price. But I also enjoy the building process and it allows you to know that weapon 100% inside and out.

 

[InTheSwamp]

It's a hobby as said above. In other cases, you want to build for a specific purpose (PRS, SPR, hunting, etc.), and you could save $ in the process, compared to similar purpose complete rifles.

 

[adcoch1]

I've built for cost and I've built to have exactly what I want. Always the build was slightly cheaper to have my desired features. And sometimes that "feature" I'm looking for is to build it myself. If cost is the concern, just shop sales until you have all the parts. Can probably take 10% off the price of your parts list by hitting black Friday and Christmas sales...

 

[CapnMac]

It's a "maybe" and always will be.
Maybe you like the effort and skill wanted.
Maybe you like the "feel" of the deferred gratification of having to go through the steps.
Maybe you like knowing the source, and identity of every pin, spring, peg, and the like that is in the build.
Maybe you like the satisfaction of "I did that."

Maybe you don't.

Nothing wrong with either position.

 

[Navy87Guy]

I built one just for the experience. I’m glad I did it, but it’s not really cost effective. Now I buy decent rifles and just upgrade the components I want to.

 

[Barnfixer]

I’m not sure if your on Aero’s mailing list but their always running deals. Take advantage of that and enjoy some savings and your own build.

 

[NIGHTLORD40K]

Only reason to build these days is so you don't have to go over the whole gun and double-check all of PSAs staking and torquing.

 

[powermad]

For myself, it's cheaper by far to put one together from scratch.
There are only a few factory rifles I would consider buying complete and those cost a bit more than $1000
But for about $1,200 or so I can assemble a solid rifle with what I want on it.
Of course optics, slings and such can make the whole package a giant money pit.

 

[N555]

I just use the "mil spec" triggers and do a trigger job to make em break at 3lb with a little bit of creep.
It will save you a hundred dollars a trigger.

 

[Robert]

Is it worth it to save money, maybe. Is it worth it to get an AR with the exact parts I want and because it is fun, absolutely.

 

[WestKentucky]

Nobody makes what I want. Simple enough for me to have a decision made in a hurry. The issue now is even sadder than build vs. buy, and that decision is build from scratch or buy and rebuild. I’m leaning towards the latter, and I may have to fabricate a bunch of parts myself to make it work, but I’m talking about something far from a standard carbine.

I will have a bullpup AR using a bufferless rifle within a year. Im thinking I will buy the bufferless rifle, and fabricate a trigger system using a hydraulic ram system. Drop the trigger guard off of the rifle and attach a small ram in there to trip that trigger and plumb the tubing out and around the left side of the magwell and forward to an angled foregrip with a reservoir built in with which pressure can be applied to move the hydraulic fluid and work the system. I will likely have 2 angled fore grips on the freefloat handguard with the trigger on the rear grip. It could be activated like a normal trigger, but it would be more ergonomically correct to have a thumb button akin to a primer bulb on a weed eater.

I haven’t been sleeping well at night, the drawings are on my nightstand. I just think a 16” upper is gonna be too short for my tastes and thats all that I have seen available. I’m still waiting on my hard copy of my new drivers license so I can’t transfer yet anyways, but I’m gonna start tinkering very soon. What’s on paper is essentially an AR set up as a p90 and most likely chambered in 300blk and set up with a suppressor and rocking subs. It would not hurt my feelings to SBR the thing and have the suppressor at least attach inside of the handguard, but if I’m going to that length I might as well just make it an integrally suppressed beast.

I don’t have a tacticool gun, but I want one and I don’t want what everybody else has.

And I fully understand that this is likely just a pipe dream, but it’s probably gonna happen… but yeah I’m gonna have to build this one.

 

[herrwalther]

I am thinking of doing a partial AR build (the upper) in a hunting caliber this winter. If it wasn't worth doing anymore, I haven't gotten that memo yet. Building is still cheaper than buying almost everywhere I look. That is always a plus. The better reasons are always getting what parts you want instead of taking stuff off a factory AR and the enjoyment in doing so.

About two weeks ago my 10 yo son asked "Daddy when are you going to build another gun?" And I have been working on a list ever since that question.

 

[someguy2800]

Your parts list is way higher end parts than are in a $500 PSA or other entry level AR. If you shop around you can build AR's with good functional parts for around $400. Building them is not a big savings but its fun and you can make it the way you like it.

The typical prices I have been paying are around,

forged upper and lowers around $30-50 each
toolcraft BCG $60-75 (usually on sale around holidays)
various barrels from $50-$150
KAK lower parts groups + the set screw trigger mod $40
upper parts kit $20?
free float handguards $40-$100
Stock and buffer tubes $40
muzzle brake $20-$30
grip $0-$25

That gives me a total of $290-$580 depending on what I got for deals and how much of I spent on the barrel and handguard, plus probably another $50 in taxes and shipping typically, and $30 for transfer if I used a serialized lower vs an 80%. I try to buy known brands of lower parts kits as I've had bad experience with getting crappy no name parts. I've used a lot of cheap stocks and buffers and barrels and never had any issues with any of them really. Accuracy is hit or miss in cheap barrels. Sometimes I'll buy 2 or 3 of the same barrel when they are on sale and chances are good one of them will be an excellent shooter and the other 2 will be like 2 moa. The barrels that don't shoot great either get resold at a loss of a few bucks or they get put together as an iron sight upper or with a red dot where I can't tell the difference between a 1 moa and 2 moa barrel. Out of 20 plus AR15 barrels I've tried ranging from $30 to $300, I've never had one that shot worse than like 2.5 moa, and I've had a few sub $100 barrels that shoot sub moa.

Another thing I sometimes do is watch for deals on complete uppers from PSA or BCA and then take them apart to sell the barrel and handguard. A couple times I've bought 6.5 grendel uppers and sold the barrel, bolt, and handguard for as much as I bought it for, so I get the upper and bolt carrier for free and then can add the bolt and barrel and handguard I want.

 

[cfullgraf]

About 20 years ago, I got interested in AR-15’s shooting them at Service Rifle Competitions. My first AR was a Colt Match Target followed up with. CMP Compass Lake AR-15 A2.

I built a couple 223 Rem AR-15’s of various configuration. They shot well but really were not economical vs commercial equivalents.

I moved to less popular cartridges in the AR-15. I built a couple 300 BO AR’s at the beginning of the 300 BO age. Nice rifles and less costly as commercial equivalent rifles at the time.

I built a 17 Rem AR with a 24” barrel. Cool rifle but 17 Rem has its limitations.

I built two 204 Ruger AR’s. One with a 24” heavy barrel, the other with a 26” heavy barrel and a side pull bolt. The latter has been on a couple prairie dog hunts in South Dakota.

I really like the AR-15 platform but I have no use for the 16” mall ninja versions. I like the longer range builds.

 

[VoodooMountain]

Cost is relative and all prices are going up

It's been very common for people to buy complete PSA lowers or uppers on sale to save money on builds for many years now.

Triggers can be swapped and run $50 and up depending on what you want.

Barrels are $100 - $300 depending on your expectations and needs.

I stripped uppers for $40 - $80 on sale.

A person can still build a very accurate and reliable AR today for relatively little money given the cost of firearms today.

Heck, some $50-$100 barrels shoot about MOA anymore which is as good as most shooters want today. (Like BKF or the lower tier BA)

With very limited exception I would rather build than buy on a $800 -$1k budget

 

[Fine Figure of a Man]

Larue trigger - $125 (I remember not so long ago these were $90)
Stripper upper - $80
Stripped lower - $90
BA premium series barrel 223 Wylde - $153
MFT stock - $60
Charging handle - $60
Aero BCG - $115
Parts kit - $100
Custom dust cover - $25
Muzzle device VG6 - $43
PSA SABRE handguard - $130

If cheap is what you want, you can find parts for much less.

 

[Styx]

I was thinking a fun project this winter would be to build an AR15. Maybe use a few more premium parts than I’ve done in the past. I put together 5 or 6 lowers, sold off a few during the height of the pandemic and now I’m looking for another rifle build. I currently have 2 ARs - one has a viper 4-16, 18 inch barrel. The other is a “cheap” PSA with a strike fire for about $600 total. To keep this relatively short, I’ll cut to the chase. I’ve always like Aero precision M4E1, I even had a 300 blackout pistol for a few months - fit, finish excellent for my needs. I’d like to build an aero lower and upper in 223.

By the time I buy everything it’s just under $1000.

PSA is selling complete lowers for $125 free shipping and $330 uppers free shipping. Add a better grip and stock for $80 and it’s less than $550.

On top of that, the new PSA sabres are right around $1000 and have all the basic upgrades that one would do on a build.

I’m a little discouraged and I’m going in circles if the build is worth it. I don’t want to buy a rifle outright because the enjoyment of this is putting it together.

Am I thinking about this the right way? The parts I listed - am I getting more rifle than the PSA Sabre, for example? And worth spending more than $600 on complete upper/lower, 2 pins and go?

Dollar for dollar, you can NOT build one with simular quality and specs outside of PSA for less. Period. The PSA Sabres is one hell of a deal for what you get, and you won't be able to match it. If you go the PSA Sabres route, make sure you get the FN CHF barrel. It will hold it's value better. Yes, IMHO, you're getting an just as good rifle with a better barrel with the Sabres.

Larue trigger - $125 (I remember not so long ago these were $90)
Stripper upper - $80
Stripped lower - $90
BA premium series barrel 223 Wylde - $153
MFT stock - $60
Charging handle - $60
Aero BCG - $115
Parts kit - $100
Custom dust cover - $25
Muzzle device VG6 - $43
PSA SABRE handguard - $130

Assuming you already have all the tools needed to assemble an AR15, you'll still need some type of crush washer for the muzzle device, buffer tube, buffer weight, buffer spring, buffer castle nut, and optional sight(s). The "BA premium series barrel 223 Wylde" for $155 doesn't include a gas block or gas tube FYI. You can use a 20% off coupon to get the barrel with a pinned gas block and nitride gas tube for $156 however. Both Aero and BA always have coupon codes floating around which you can also use on the VG6, BCG, lower and upper.

 

[Phaedrus/69]

I suppose it's a wash if you're doing it to save money but as a hobby and to explore the inner workers of the AR it would still be pretty cool to roll your own. I'm a duffer when it comes to gunsmithing, for me I'd trust the manufacturer to build one that will run right farther than I trust my knowledge!

 

[CraigC]

I don’t want to buy a rifle outright because the enjoyment of this is putting it together.

You answered your own question.

 

[Charlie98]

I’m a little discouraged and I’m going in circles if the build is worth it. I don’t want to buy a rifle outright because the enjoyment of this is putting it together.

Only reason to build these days is so you don't have to go over the whole gun and double-check all of PSAs staking and torquing.

Best of both worlds... buy the PSA kit and tear it down, then reassemble it properly. Having said that, my last PSA build was built right on the money, but I always check.

 

[Charlie Martinez]

buy the PSA kit and tear it down, then reassemble it properly.

That is a great idea for anyone that wants to save $$ but wants to make sure QC is A1.

 

[Charlie98]

That is a great idea for anyone that wants to save $$ but wants to make sure QC is A1.

When I ordered it, I thought I was going to get a box of parts, instead, a very nicely assembled upper showed up, along with the lower parts (it was a complete rifle, minus the receiver.) I've had issues with factory assembled AR's... so my normal SOP is to tear it down, check the parts, then reassemble it. Win-win.

 

[Styx]

I take factory ARs our and shoot them no different than any other pistol, rifle, shotgun, etc. If I were to check anything, it would only be that the gas block wasn't loose and maybe take a look at the bolt. I'll be darned if I stripped everything back down to spear parts just for the hell of it.