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Bulding my own AR.

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TheResearcher

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Sep 13, 2009
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Belvidere NJ
I went on the AR builder today and I got lost, I mean which parts should I pay the extra buck for, and what part is ok to get the low price on? I read that it is cheaper to build your own but how much cheaper is it? Are all ARs compatible including military-civilian?
 
If your looking for accuracy I wouldn't cheap out on the bolt, barrel or trigger for sure.

I would also use a good free float tube or free float rail system. If using optics I wouldn't skimp too much on the mount or glass either.
 
I'm not sure how much cheaper it actually is, I guess that would all depend on the parts you put in and which manufacturer your comparing it too. You could always find one models actual price then compare it to the price it would take you to build the same rifle with the same parts.

Don't forget the value of having a warranty, or the cost of not having one if you f something up. Also shipping costs on several individual parts, and you will need some tools too like a action block, nut wrench or combination tool.

As for compatibility most are interchangeable but Colt uses larger take down pins. So their upper's and lower's will not interchange as well a the trigger group. I'm pretty sure all other manufacturer's use small pins.
As for military, I thought they would all be either M16's or M4's not AR 15. Most basic parts are still the same except the selector of course, and bolt carrier group but where can you get military parts, or a military rifle anyway. Well I guess if you had $15000-$20000 you could buy a pre ban m16 and use civilian parts in it if you needed to.

You never stated what your intended use of the rifle would be. That would help too.

Target rifles will need better parts for accuracy that might not be better for dependability and vice versa.

Like I said in the first post I definitely wouldn't cheap out on the barrel, bolt assembly, and trigger group. That is the life line of the rifle, most of the accuracy and or dependability come from those three parts in the ar 15. Well that's just my opinion anyway.
 
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I don't think building is cheaper than buying when trying to build a nice accurate AR. You can build a Cheapy if you want or you can build a really nice one, but not both.
 
The extra bucks for accuracy? Barrel. And free float it. Next would be a good trigger. There really isn't that much difference in price, but next, a flat top upper for optic use with no front sight on the barrel to block the site picture. Helps to buy the upper and lower from the same manufacturer. Sometimes different uppers and lowers require a little grinding work to fit together and sometimes they may be a little loose.
 
I have built all the ARs that I own and I didn't use kits either. I agree with the others, Barrel, bolt and trigger are most important for quality. But you don't have to buy Colt'$ stuff either. RRA, CMMG, Bushmaster, BCM, all make good barrels for a decent price. RRA and BCM Bolts are pretty good too if you don't want to spend the extra cash on a Colt bolt. For the trigger, I like the RRA National Match trigger, but use DPMS and RRA kits for the rest of the parts in the lowers and uppers. DPMS and RRA upper receivers are fine. For lowers, I have some DPMS, Eagle Arms, and Bushmaster. For furniture, I'm partial to Cavalry Arms.

wholefamndamily.jpg
 
You'll save some money, but not necessarily a lot by building your AR. I put together my AR using BCM and LMT parts. The cost of my rifle was about equal to the cost of buying a factory AR. I did however save over $100 as I did not have to pay the federal excise tax on complete rifles. Plus, I didn't have to spend any extra money upgrading parts as I bought the parts I wanted to begin with.
 
Whats your budget? It would be best to start there on how you should build it.
You can find a lower for $90 or 100. LPK for $60 + $35 trigger job from Bill Springfield. Then the stock depending on the type of build you want. You can make it as cheap as about $70. So thats ~$265 for a lower with a trigger job. You can definitely find them cheaper, and even much more expensive.

Upper all depends. Find a stripped upper with the ejection port cover and FA installed for about $95, and go from there which barrel you want.

You can build an AR overall for about $600 or $2000.
 
Uppers and lowers are all pretty much the same. Pick your favorite rollmark.

Dont cheap out on a bolt or bbl.

If you're going to use a collapsible stock, go ahead and get the mil-spec (Stag, Vltor, LMT).

I built my first AR for about $200 less than an off the shelf rifle, but that was several years ago. Looking at parts now, I really dont see the savings. But the advantage is that you get the rifle you want, instead of getting something OTS and replacing HGs, trigger, carry handle, etc.

Another advantage is that you dont have to shell out almost a grand at once. After buying the bbl (or complete upper), everything else is cheap, unless you go with a FF fore end...
 
The cool thing is that you can start with the basics, like a new stripped lower for around $100 and an M4'gery kit for around $470. Build it and shoot it, then you can hot rod it as you go. I have $550 rifles that have about $2000 in them (with optics and trinkets), and I have 4 that are set up for various options. I could do without 3 I guess, but they are a bunch of fun.

DSCF0099.jpg

I need a new pic. The M4'gery has a Vltor CAS-V forearm and fore grip now.
 
Colt hasn't used larger takedown pins in years and they no longer use larger hammer and trigger springs either.
I suggest BCM or LMT components. S&W lowers are a he'll of a deal as well.
 
If you aren't real particular about which parts you want and it's a plinker gun, buy one already built. It will be under warranty and won't require any labor from you. In today's market, there is very little money to be saved in building your own either.
 
Build a lower - easy, no special tools, instructions all over the web.
Buy the upper with a quality bolt and barrel, with warranty - no tax...assembling one does require a little know-how and a couple of specific tools/fixtures.

Or, check CDNN and also the CMMG bargain bin ($599 for the current offer) which is back after a brief hiatus for the election ...
http://cmmginc.secure-mall.com/shop/?shop=1&cat=161&
/Bryan
 
That doesnt really sound like a great deal to me. $600 bucks for a ar assembled from trade-ins, demos, scratched, dented, discolored, overuns, specials, and uglies, etc. Sold as is NO RETURNS. Also rifle may not be same as pictured, no choice of brand.

You can do better for just a little more money.

Not saying this is what he should get but just a quick one minute search for cheaper priced AR's

Budsguns have dpms lite 16's or sporticals for just a tad over $700 Shipped. I think they are good plinkers.
http://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/index.php/cPath/36_793

If you want to spend a little more they have bushmasters $800-$1000, S&W $900-$1000, Colts starting at $1000. That's after shipping prices too.
http://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/index.php/cPath/36_60
http://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/index.php/cPath/36_140

That's just one site that I checked out if you did some searching you could probably find some good deals out there.

Or if you wanted complete simple build kit.
Del-Ton has complete rifle kits for $750. 12-16 weeks before ship time though.
http://www.del-ton.com/AR_15_Rifles_s/2.htm
 
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That particular CMMG is an example of what they may have any given day. Prior to the election, that site had frequent and varied offers - and I expect they will return to that practice now that most of the dust has settled on the AR panic buying.
/B
 
Can the store take the flash suppresser of before shipping to make it New Jersey leagel? Also it must have a fixed stock, and cant say AR on the rifle.
 
Wow researcher, New Jersey laws suck. I don't know how the legal system works on firearms. I may be wrong here but I would say it would be just as wrong for them to ship you a rifle with threads for a flash suppressor even though it's not on the rifle because you could put one on your self too easy. Kinda like the bayonet lug thing. Someone should correct me on that if I'm wrong it just a guess.

Now if it's not threaded that's another story. With those restrictions in mind I would probably start leaning toward some sort of varmint or bull barrel set up. Most come with a factory a2 stock, and a bull barrel or heavy profile barrel with a target crowns no flash suppressor. They also use names like varmint, match, target, predator, bull, whatever. What I'm getting at here is I don't think they say AR15 on the rifle or in the model description. To be honest I'm not sure if any AR 15 actually says (AR 15) on them.

I have a DPMS Lo-Pro Classic. It's a 16in heavy barreled, slick side, semi automatic varmint rifle. I didn't say AR 15 because it doesn't say that on the rifle. I just checked to make sure. The upper receiver has no markings and the barrel is only stamped .223. The lower receiver says DPMS Model A-15, Caliber 5.56/.223 Ser 00000. That's not a typo, it says A-15 not AR 15.

Not sure if that's the case of all dpms lowers but to me that sounds legal for you. I have also seen a few other lowers made by manufactures that use model names like SL-15 or LAR 15 instead of AR 15.

I'm guessing this is to get around some of the stupid laws that New Jersey and other states have.
 
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