WayneConrad
Member
BluesBear, Ouch!
I can attest that a laminate floor will harm itself to save an innocent carbide sizing die. Oh brave, noble floor. Your chip is a testiment to your noble sacrifice.
Bulge in 9mm cases that resizing doesn't fix
- Thread starter WayneConrad
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BluesBear, Ouch!
I can attest that a laminate floor will harm itself to save an innocent carbide sizing die. Oh brave, noble floor. Your chip is a testiment to your noble sacrifice.
model 649
Member
- Joined
- Mar 16, 2005
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- 544
I keep looking at those pix over and over......Do me one favor and remove the shellholder. Is there crud in the U-channel of the ram where the shellholder fits? If there is, clean it out. The shellholder should make a distinctive "snapping" sound as it goes ALL the way into the channel. I have to clean this out once every so often on my press and I also try to keep the shellhoder's channel clear too. Hope this helps.
Josh
Josh
WayneConrad
Member
Model 649, Will do! I'll let you know what I find.
WayneConrad
Member
The bulge at the base was also a problem!
Model 649, no crud in the ram or in the case holder, and the case holder snaps in smartly.
I loaded another 50 tonight, and to my surprise I had 7 rejects. What was different? Last night, when I had no rejects, I had resized as you guys taught me (put the seating die in until it cams over a bit). Tonight, I used brass I had sized when I was still leaving an air gap between the sizing die and the case holder. When I smoked the 7 rejects, I found that they were all too fat near the base.
It turns out there have been two problems: A bulge at the case's base caused by incomplete sizing, and a bulge at the bullet's base caused during crimping.
Looks like just about everyone was right.
Model 649, no crud in the ram or in the case holder, and the case holder snaps in smartly.
I loaded another 50 tonight, and to my surprise I had 7 rejects. What was different? Last night, when I had no rejects, I had resized as you guys taught me (put the seating die in until it cams over a bit). Tonight, I used brass I had sized when I was still leaving an air gap between the sizing die and the case holder. When I smoked the 7 rejects, I found that they were all too fat near the base.
It turns out there have been two problems: A bulge at the case's base caused by incomplete sizing, and a bulge at the bullet's base caused during crimping.
Looks like just about everyone was right.
870
Member
The will need to be ROLL SIZED, to remove the bulge.
870
870
41 Redhawk
Member
Here is a company that can do roll sizing for you. http://www.wolfbullets.com/rollsize.htm
Or, you can buy your own roll sizer here: http://www.casepro.net
Then again, there is the trash can
Or, you can buy your own roll sizer here: http://www.casepro.net
Then again, there is the trash can
caz223
Member
Well, have you tried a lee carbide factory crimp die?
They are $11.39 at midway, I believe.
They are $11.39 at midway, I believe.
Wayne, if you don't size all the way down you can push brass down and bulge the bases, and that is what you are seeing on the cases you had problems with. If you size all the way down it will still push the brass down and bulge out, but when you get close to the bottom of the stroke the brass has nowhere to go and it will have to spring up into the die. When it does this it will be sized and the bulge will be gone. With the price of 9mm brass I would not worry about roll sizing or anything like that. Size down as low as you can. Load them up and if they don't fit pull them down and throw that case away, re-use the rest of the components.
I don't know if you need a custom seating stem, but you can probably find one that fits the bullet a little better. Easier still and a lot cheaper is to use up the bullets you have and buy different bullets that fit the equipment you have. "Less" pointy is what you need to look for, then the seating stem will have a better chance of seating them straight. If the bullet fits the seating stem well you can have a significant angle on the bullet as it starts into the die to be seated and it will seat straight.
I think this has been a 'good' problem, lots of experience troubleshooting problems and things that will stick in your mind if you should have problems in the future. Most of us started reloading before the internet forums were available or used by us, and unless you had a skilled mentor problems were solved by persistance alone sometimes. Forums like this sure are nice, several guys with dozens of years of experience have seen most of what can go wrong between them.
Good job on figuring it out and getting it working!!!
I don't know if you need a custom seating stem, but you can probably find one that fits the bullet a little better. Easier still and a lot cheaper is to use up the bullets you have and buy different bullets that fit the equipment you have. "Less" pointy is what you need to look for, then the seating stem will have a better chance of seating them straight. If the bullet fits the seating stem well you can have a significant angle on the bullet as it starts into the die to be seated and it will seat straight.
I think this has been a 'good' problem, lots of experience troubleshooting problems and things that will stick in your mind if you should have problems in the future. Most of us started reloading before the internet forums were available or used by us, and unless you had a skilled mentor problems were solved by persistance alone sometimes. Forums like this sure are nice, several guys with dozens of years of experience have seen most of what can go wrong between them.
Good job on figuring it out and getting it working!!!
Automac
Member
once fired 9mm cases
Wayne, these things are VERY inexpensive. I think I have seen $8 for 1000, on a net search. But I dont mind paying $13 for 500 from Cabela's or Midway. Get some and cull the imperfect ones until your hearts content. I have not heard anything bad about them yet, but I am new to trying them myself. It is usually military WCC (Western Cart. Corp, which I think is from Winchester/Western). The primer pockets are nice and snug too. I guess all those GIs are burning up a lot nowadays on the required practice range (like my daughter).
TRASH anything with a bulge on the bottom, that wont fit an inspection gauge after its sized. Remember the case is supposed to expand at the bottom at least .01 because it is NOT straight sided. I sure know mine dont size all the way down! Now, if your having bulges on the bottom after you load, trash all that brass. :banghead:
If you are having crooked bullet bulges then I would like to hear more. Like do you have your seating stem plug matched to your bullets? Or what else are you finding about the UPPER bulges? It seems to me that different brass will solve your lower bulge problems. You're not shooting an unsupported chamber (Glock- no offense anyone
) are you?
Like somebody else said, this stuff is cheep! Far to cheap to be worth 59 posts, just kidding! Sorry if I got something confused, missed or repeated, but that is just too many posts for me to assimilate
Wayne, these things are VERY inexpensive. I think I have seen $8 for 1000, on a net search. But I dont mind paying $13 for 500 from Cabela's or Midway. Get some and cull the imperfect ones until your hearts content. I have not heard anything bad about them yet, but I am new to trying them myself. It is usually military WCC (Western Cart. Corp, which I think is from Winchester/Western). The primer pockets are nice and snug too. I guess all those GIs are burning up a lot nowadays on the required practice range (like my daughter).
TRASH anything with a bulge on the bottom, that wont fit an inspection gauge after its sized. Remember the case is supposed to expand at the bottom at least .01 because it is NOT straight sided. I sure know mine dont size all the way down! Now, if your having bulges on the bottom after you load, trash all that brass. :banghead:
If you are having crooked bullet bulges then I would like to hear more. Like do you have your seating stem plug matched to your bullets? Or what else are you finding about the UPPER bulges? It seems to me that different brass will solve your lower bulge problems. You're not shooting an unsupported chamber (Glock- no offense anyone
) are you? Like somebody else said, this stuff is cheep! Far to cheap to be worth 59 posts, just kidding! Sorry if I got something confused, missed or repeated, but that is just too many posts for me to assimilate
Last edited:
WayneConrad
Member
It took 59 posts for me to get it. Those signs on the side of the road that say "SLOW KIDS"? They meant me.
Anyhow, the problem is resolved. Y'all have taught me enough to recognize and fix several of the screwups that were causing my grief. This is a lot more fun now. Thanks, everyone!
Anyhow, the problem is resolved. Y'all have taught me enough to recognize and fix several of the screwups that were causing my grief. This is a lot more fun now. Thanks, everyone!
caz223
Member
Sooooo, what fixed it?
WayneConrad
Member
- Adjust sizing die so that shell holder contacts die with slight "cam over" during sizing.
- Take more care that case is all the way in the shell holder during belling.
- Replace roll-crimp die with taper-crimp die.
- Take more care that bullets are straight when seating.
This thread has been a good read. I'll throw in another suggestion or two.
Check that your shell holder top surface is flat and smooth. You might even rub it on a flat sharpening steel to make it square and flat. That way the base of the bullet is pushed further up closer to the die, and consequently the shell casing goes further up into the die.
When you adjust your die, have a casing in the shell holder. Use a light behind the die/shell holder to help see the air gap. Often, the shell holder will not seat all the way down on the ram unless a casing is in the shell holder and being forced down against the ram by the die. Try it, you may be surprised.
Check that your shell holder top surface is flat and smooth. You might even rub it on a flat sharpening steel to make it square and flat. That way the base of the bullet is pushed further up closer to the die, and consequently the shell casing goes further up into the die.
When you adjust your die, have a casing in the shell holder. Use a light behind the die/shell holder to help see the air gap. Often, the shell holder will not seat all the way down on the ram unless a casing is in the shell holder and being forced down against the ram by the die. Try it, you may be surprised.
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