Bullet Mold Actual Size

[BSA1]

Largely as a result of the Banic of 2013 I have decided to start casting bullets. It is my understanding the cast bullets such be sized .001” over bore size (i.e. .358' for .357'). for best results. However I have noticed that in pictures in gun magazines involving reloading the bullet molds are the actual size of the bore (i.e..357”).

My question is do bullet molds drop bullets larger than the bore size listed? For example what size bullet will .357 mold drop?

 

[tyeo098]

Molds usually drop .002-.005 larger.

You'll need a sizing die.

 

[USSR]

Depends upon the alloy you are using. Nearly pure lead with little antimony will cast smaller than a high antimony content alloy.

Don

 

[rcmodel]

For revolvers, size the bullets to fit the chamber throats.

Bore size will take care of itself if you don't get gas blow-by in the throats melting lead off the bullets.

rc

 

[35 Whelen]

Largely as a result of the Banic of 2013 I have decided to start casting bullets. It is my understanding the cast bullets such be sized .001” over bore size (i.e. .358' for .357'). for best results. However I have noticed that in pictures in gun magazines involving reloading the bullet molds are the actual size of the bore (i.e..357”).

My question is do bullet molds drop bullets larger than the bore size listed? For example what size bullet will .357 mold drop?

I think what you actually mean is groove diameter, not bore. Anyhow, most moulds drop bullets a little larger than standard groove diameter, although Lyman used to cut moulds that dropped undersized bullets. These can be distinguished by a "U" after the mould number. I happen to own a Lyman 4-cavity 35891U and it drops 148 gr. WC's at .357". The Rule of Thumb has always been to size cast bullets .001" over groove diameter and that's fine, but not necessary. A bullet cast of a soft-ish alloy will obturate and fill the grooves and/or cylinder throat properly.

35W

 

[BSA1]

You'll need a sizing die.

Got one, well actually more than several. I brought a luber sizer several years ago with a bunch of sizing dies in a variety of sizes.

For revolvers, size the bullets to fit the chamber throats.

I read that advice recently in Handloader magazine. However I only want to buy one bullet mold per cartridge at this time (9mm, 357, 44 and 45 ACP). I realize there will be a certain degree of compromise but, at this time at least, I don’t plan on getting that deeply involved in casting.

Thanks tyeo098, USSR and 35 Whelen.

Loaded follow up question;

Opinions on best bullet mold for semi-wadcutter Keith style bullet mold for .357 and .44 and round nose for 9mm and 45 acp?

 

[35 Whelen]

Loaded follow up question;

Opinions on best bullet mold for semi-wadcutter Keith style bullet mold for .357 and .44 and round nose for 9mm and 45 acp?

Not loaded at all, that's a pretty easy one to answer:

.357- a Lyman 358429
.44- a Lyman 429421 or an RCBS 44-250KT. Either is great but I very slightly prefer the RCBS and killed two deer with it just this past season.

9mm- Can't help you.
45 ACP- Lyman 452374

There are other variations made by other manufacturers that would be fine, but the iron moulds by Lyman and RCBS will last a lifetime with minimal care. You can buy Lee moulds, but my experience has been if you cast very much, you'll wear 'em out pretty quick.

Lately I've bought a few moulds from the custom makers such as Miha, NOE and Accurate. These moulds are CNC machined and the quality is astounding. Tom at Accurate Moulds has a huge catalog of moulds he can make and there are enough designs to make your head swim. Miha makes a superbly designed hollowpoint mould and just this afternoon I cast 250 +/- 429421 HP's from one of his moulds. NOE makes probably the most affordable moulds of the three mentioned and I have a couple of his 4-cavity moulds.

35W

 

[243winxb]

Lee's "bullet mold tolerance is stated diameter, +.003/-.000 inch." They use 10 -1 alloy, Lead/tin. Add antimony, for a larger diameter, as bullets drop from the molds.

[/URL][/IMG] These bullets work ok.

 

[35 Whelen]

Forgot to mention, it's been my experience if one of the above-mentioned custom mould makers tell you "when cast with _______ alloy, this bullet will be .xxx" in diameter", it will be EXACTLY that diameter.

35W

 

[grubbylabs]

What size and weight the mold drops also depends on alloy and temp of alloy at time of casting.

For best results I highly recommend reading the Lyman hand book on casting. Giving that a good read before you start will help you out quite a bit.

As far as molds go I think 35W pretty much hit the nail on the head. I have used Lee Accurate and NOE molds.

The Lee molds work and are inexpensive. They work well for what they are.

The Accurate and NOE molds are works of art that make amazingly good bullets. I have two HP molds from NOE and would buy another in a hart beat. I can't say enough good about them both.

Before you buy a mold I would slug all the guns you plan on casting for. Buy a mold to fit the largest one and size down to fit the smaller ones. You will find that .001-.002 will work quite well for most applications.

Don't skimp on lube. And don't fall for the home made lube that uses every thing but the kitchen sink. On the castboolits forum in the lube sub forum you will find a recipe for a simple lube and it works well.

 

[tyeo098]

Hahahahaha.

One mold per caliber he says.
Man, EVERYONE starts by saying that.

My 12 molds in 4 calibers beg to differ... sometimes you just wanna try something different!
(like the 124gr tumble-lube truncated cone, or the 105gr SWC, or the 125gr RN, or the 158gr RNFP or or or...)

 

[Arkansas Paul]

Well of course every mold is different. You can order the same mold and may get a couple thousandths difference with the same alloy. Your gun will determine whether or not you need to size the bullet.

For me, I have to size the .40s.
However, my RCBS 9mm mold drops them right where I need them. My bore is .356 and the mold drops them at .3575 so they're perfect.

 

[Ifishsum]

I cast for all of my handguns, 10 molds (all Lee aluminum 2-cavities) in 5 different calibers. Maybe I've been lucky but so far I have not had to resize any bullets - I just tumble lube and shoot, they almost all perform better with less leading than any commercial cast I had loaded before. Most are tumble lube designs, which may be a factor.

 

[35 Whelen]

10 moulds? 12 moulds? HA! I'm pretty sure I have TEN .30 caliber moulds and without too much though can mentally account SEVEN .44 caliber moulds. Then there's the .45's, some rifle, some pistol, then the .358's...seven or eight of them...Mostly Lyman/Ideal and custom. I tell ya, it's a sickness!!

35W

 

[MMCSRET]

It is easy to get a full stable of molds. I only have about 60 currently, down from over a hundred two years ago. I'd buy them and try them, them trade or sell if I found another that was new to me. Someone knowledgeable once called it an addiction; yup!!!!

 

[PapaG]

Took a count a few minutes ago and my moulds are now so past 50. Very few calipers with less than four. Started this addiction about '55. Some of the older ones drop quite a bit oversize and some right on. Never r found one that was exact, regardless of temp or alloy. Used to be standard procedure to go .358 in 38/357 and .311 in the 30 cal. In some 357s with gas checks, .356 was perfect and .308 in my '06 M70. Experiment. Fun.

 

[greyling22]

my molds tend to drop .001 larger to .004 larger. you never know will you start dropping them. You may or may not need to size them.

 

[hovercat]

When the moulds are being cut, the mfg makes the cutter a little oversize. As the cutter wears and is sharpened, it gradually cuts smaller until it is too small and is replaced by another oversize cherry.
Exact diameter varies with the alloy and where along the production timeline above that your particular mould got the finishing cut.

 

[plmitch]

I have had Lee mold that dropped larger and smaller than size stated. A few lymans dropped smaller, Noes are very good. Don't use Lee's anymore, gave them all away.

 

[Don McDowell]

Largely as a result of the Banic of 2013 I have decided to start casting bullets. It is my understanding the cast bullets such be sized .001” over bore size (i.e. .358' for .357'). for best results. However I have noticed that in pictures in gun magazines involving reloading the bullet molds are the actual size of the bore (i.e..357”).

My question is do bullet molds drop bullets larger than the bore size listed? For example what size bullet will .357 mold drop?

That's a can of worms it can be dang hard to get the lid back on.
As already stated assuming the cavity of the mould is cut to the proper size, you can still change things up with a harder or softer alloy, and the contents of the alloy. The temperature of the alloy and moulds.
A commercial bullet caster friend of mine says he has to watch the barometer and humidity as that can change weights and diameters.
Then there's the bit about finding a load that works, is it the bullet size, the lube, the powder charge the crimp, ooh the list goes on and on.
Best thing to do is buy the mould you like the looks of best and go for it. While you may not end up being an official member of the mould of the month club, chances are pretty good you'll end up with a number of blocks for each cartridge..

 

[chris in va]

The Lee 356-125-2r I use for my CZ drops at 361. Fine by me, it has to be sized at 358 anyway.

 

[41 Mag]

To be honest, I would pick out the closest weights and profiles to what you normally shoot. Start off with the Lee 2 cavity molds to get your feet under you and figure out the finer details for your sizes and loads. If you like what your seeing and doing, then progress into the other molds like NOE, Accurate, and so forth.

I have close to 2 dozen Lee molds and about that many MP brass mold with a few from Saeco, Lyman, NOE and Accurate thrown in for good measure. In the calibers I shoot the most like my 45 ACP, Colt, 41, 44, 38 and 357, I have at least one Lee 6 cavity for each. When I pour up a batch for any of them I usually will do around 12-18# worth, and use as needed.

The Lee 2 cavity molds are better built than they were a few years back. They redesigned them and they have a much better fit and function. They come with handles attached where the 6 cavity ones need to be purchased separately. Even so one or two set of handles can easily be switched between several molds.

For production you can hardly beat a 4-6 cavity mold, but they DO cost a bit more, especially when you start looking at the more or less customs. With the Lee you will still get quality bullets that are great for plinking and even hunting, but your limited to what they produce.

One last thing to keep in mind, if you find a profile you like, don't worry about if it is listed as a tumble lube or not, any of them can be tumble lubed with the Alox or a blend of it. Most I think use the 45/45/10 blend as it dries to a non sticky finish. It works well, even if it does smoke a little, but I have had some of the standard type lube smoke just as much or more, depending on the powder and load used.

Hope this helps, and for more info look up the LASC site or Castboolits. Either of them are a wealth of info.

 

[GP100man]

For custom molds go here

https://www.google.com/#q=noe+bullet+moulds

Alot easier to size em down than up !!!

Noe is a top notch outfit !!

 

[loose noose]

I haven't heard anyone mention the Rapine mold, I use two different Rapine molds for in 45-70 while shooting my Springfield Trapdoor, and my Sharps 1874. I'll have to get on the search channel and see if they are still making them. They are bit pricey but they sure do drop a beautiful bullet. Also got a couple for my 30-30 and 30-06 one is a spire point, they all drop a nice accurately weighed bullet, along with the stated diameter.