Bullet sinking when pushed with finger?!

[witchhunter]

Hammer type bullet puller works good for pistol bullets. Put and foam ear plug in the nose to protect the tips. I like the collet type for rifles, but pistol bullets sometimes are hard to grab with the collet, so a hammer type works best. Small taps instead of one huge whack. I use a brick or concrete block.

 

[moonman16]

hachaduran,

A INERTIA HAMMER.

Everyone reloader should have one.

 

[Moreno]

How do you extract a bullet when it sinks so darn deep?

Hammer type impact/inertia bullet puller. This saves the brass and the powder. Perhaps you are going to toss the brass anyway?

Yes, I have many times de-capped live primers and re-used them. Just go slow and carefully, and wear safety glasses! I have never had one go off doing this.

If you want to try re-sizing that brass take the de-capping pin out so you can work the brass without de-capping it.

Does your bullet have a crimp ring? A good crimp in a ring will solve the problem.

 

[Moreno]

And I have too few of these to fix. Plus, isn't is easier (and cheaper if you give your time any worth) to just toss these and pick up a few from the range next time. NOT the same brand!

For a few, this may just be the best answer. At any rate, you still need a bullet puller. Just something a re-loader should have handy.

 

[ATLDave]

I've encountered similar issues with R-P .45 ACP cases (range pickups) and PPU 10mm.

 

[rcmodel]

So you feel the hammer is better? It's not too late to cancel my order..

Yes, get a hammer puller.

Collet pullers are great.
But only on jacketed rifle bullets in large numbers.

A hammer puller is like an eraser on the end of a pencil.
If you write, you will need the eraser eventually.

If you reload, you will need the hammer puller eventually.

rc

 

[hachaduryan]

Does your bullet have a crimp ring? A good crimp in a ring will solve the problem.

No crimp ring. It is a Winchester 130gn FMJ that I don't think I will be getting again.

Thank you, I ordered a hammer puller, canceled the collet one.

So many great tips, thanks you people!

 

[fallout mike]

I have a few hammers and a collet setup. Nearly always use a hammer.

 

[rcmodel]

It is a Winchester 130gn FMJ

Well there's your problem!

Revolver bullets have crimp cannulures.
Auto-pistol bullets don't.

Measure your bullets and see if they are .356" or .357".

Sounds like Winchester .356" .38 Super auto-pistol bullets to me.
They don't make a 130 grain FMJ .357 revolver bullet.

If that is the case, neck tension will suffer.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/13...l-metal-jacket-flat-nose?cm_vc=ProductFinding

rc

 

[WestKentucky]

I saw this a few times early on from under-crimping. Now I crimp pretty heavily and it solved the problem. I do have 2 presses on my table and have tossed a round or ten by "seating" in the press set up to flare...not so much an easy save.

 

[Rule3]

Well there's your problem!

Revolver bullets have crimp cannulures.
Auto-pistol bullets don't.

Measure your bullets and see if they are .356" or .357".

Sounds like Winchester .356" .38 Super auto-pistol bullets to me.
They don't make a 130 grain FMJ .357 revolver bullet.

If that is the case, neck tension will suffer.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/13...l-metal-jacket-flat-nose?cm_vc=ProductFinding

rc

^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Yes, that certainly would create the problem!!

Do you have the box or bag that your bullets cam in? What does it say? If not do you have calipers? Measure the outside diameter of the bullets.

Per Winchester, they are .356" dia

http://www.winchester.com/Products/...nterfire-handgun/Pages/full-metal-jacket.aspx

 

[tightgroup tiger]

Germ, thanks for explaining the M-die, I have new Remington brass here and I want to try what you explained to see if I get the same results. I'm using a set of RCBS carbide dies so I'm curious to see if I get the same results.

I've heard to much about the Remington brass to ignore what your saying, it has to be true from the amount of complaints I read, I've just never experienced it. I'll post here later when I try this.

Thanks for the reply.

 

[tightgroup tiger]

I just mic'ed out several each of my new Remington and old Winchester .357mag brass and they mic out the same.

The case wall thickness is .011"on both and I ran both of them through my Lee resizing die and can't get a bullet to start in either one of them.

I then ran them through my Lee flaring die with it set the way I always use it and could just barely get a JHP 158gr Win Silver Tip to stick in the top of either one. There is no way I could push one in with my fingers. I put the heal of my hand on both of them and hurt myself trying to budge either one.

I recently bought some new Starline .357 brass and the sidewall on them mic out at .001" thinner (.010") than the new Remington's. I haven't loaded the Starline yet but their the ones I would should have trouble with being to thin, if any. But they are fine also.

I mic'd the inside of both the Remington and Winchester brass and they mic'd at .352" before the expanding, and .353-354"after expanding.

After resizing and expanding Starline ID mic'd at .354-.355" which is still at minimum, a .002"press fit before seating bullets and crimping.

I repeated this with my RCBS dies and they are a full thousand of and inch tighter all the way around.

 

[lturford]

I ran into this issue and realized it was only happening with R-P brass. I stopped reloading them and set them to the side. At the time I was loading Berry bullets. Bought some Missouri bullets and they work fine in the R-P brass. Frustrated me to no end till I realized it was the one head stamp that was causing the problem.

 

[hachaduryan]

Well there's your problem!

Revolver bullets have crimp cannulures.
Auto-pistol bullets don't.

Measure your bullets and see if they are .356" or .357".

Sounds like Winchester .356" .38 Super auto-pistol bullets to me.
They don't make a 130 grain FMJ .357 revolver bullet.

If that is the case, neck tension will suffer.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/13...l-metal-jacket-flat-nose?cm_vc=ProductFinding

rc

You got a mighty good point. Will measure when I get back home.

 

[tightgroup tiger]

Originally Posted by rcmodel View Post
Well there's your problem!

Revolver bullets have crimp cannulures.
Auto-pistol bullets don't.

Measure your bullets and see if they are .356" or .357".

Sounds like Winchester .356" .38 Super auto-pistol bullets to me.
They don't make a 130 grain FMJ .357 revolver bullet.

If that is the case, neck tension will suffer.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/139...ProductFinding

rc

That sounds more like the real problem.

If you are resizing to the maximum and flaring to the minimum it take to make a bullet stick unless you have bullet problems all your brass should have sufficient neck tension.
I recently bought a box of Hornady XTP .357 125 gr bullets, loaded them with 2400 and they didn't shoot for crap. I had them crimped to the cannulure so they didn't seem loose. After checking into to what happened I discovered my .357 jacketed XTPs were .355 in dia and they had a cannulure so they weren't 9mms.

It does happen more than people think and I think some people get undersized bullets or have lack experience in dealing with variations of their components or just buy the wrong bullet for caliber and blame it on the brass.

 

[hachaduryan]

.
It does happen more than people think and I think some people get undersized bullets or have lack experience in dealing with variations of their components or just buy the wrong bullet for caliber and blame it on the brass.

In my case it looks like I got the wrong bullets. It was my fault I let the salesman talk me into this "bargain" buy. I just wanted to be open minded and try suggestions, plus I was in a hurry, but I guess I'll just stick to what I know from now on.

 

[kerreckt]

Measure the culprits and the reasons for this should become clear quickly.

 

[hachaduryan]

Measure the culprits and the reasons for this should become clear quickly.

.355". I guess this one has been solved. Thank you all for helping me figure this out.