Caliper cost?

[Walkalong]

I would rather pay $9 for a harbor freight caliper and $31 on standards close to the dimensions that I intend to measure than $40 on any set without standards.

In reality any caliper will likely be fine for reloading as long as it can measure the same part and come up with the same length. It wouldn't be uncommon to have OAL variance greater than the resolution of even the cheapest of calipers.

If they all read accurately on standards, the only difference is how much money you spend on them.

So you can use the cheap ones and just take photos with the Brown&Sharpe, Starrett or Mitutoyo.

If you want something that is "really accurate" you shouldn't be using a caliper anyway.

That's about it.

 

[Blue68f100]

I would rather pay $9 for a harbor freight caliper and $31 on standards close to the dimensions that I intend to measure than $40 on any set without standards.

In reality any caliper will likely be fine for reloading as long as it can measure the same part and come up with the same length. It wouldn't be uncommon to have OAL variance greater than the resolution of even the cheapest of calipers.

If they all read accurately on standards, the only difference is how much money you spend on them.

So you can use the cheap ones and just take photos with the Brown&Sharpe, Starrett or Mitutoyo.

If you want something that is "really accurate" you shouldn't be using a caliper anyway.

You don't test accuracy by just using a single point on the scale. During my accuracy test on the cheap HF calipers I found it read correctly if your at the inch mark and x.1 . Where they get way off is in the middle ranges x.x30-x.x70" range. They can be as far as 0.003" off in that range. For reloading this is close enough but for precision invest in a good set from Brown&Sharpe, Starrett or Mitutoyo.

 

[entropy]

$20-$30 set of calipers will cover the bulk of the recreational shooters needs.

If you are getting into gun smithing where better precision and reliability are required, higher end calipers are in order, as well as other measuring equipment.

Digital calipers require batteries but most can be converted back and forth between English and metric measurements. They are quick to "zero" when measuring different from a closed jaw zero.

The "batteries" never wear out in a dial caliper.

Vernier calipers are good instruments, but are pretty much obsolete now a days as the price point of digital and dial have gotten low enough that there is no advantage to buying vernier calipers any more. I can't remember when I last had my vernier calipers out of its case.

But, if you want to buy higher end tools, by all means do so and enjoy your purchase.

I have a Superior brand plastic manual caliper I bought at a garage sale for a buck. Works great for reloading. I also have a Frankford Arsenal electronic one that burns through batteries so much I don't use it anymore.

The shops I worked in usually had Mitutoyo gauges.

 

[doubleh]

If you are burning thru batteries with your digital caliper cut the foam out of the case where it is over the switch. That has solved the dead battery problem for me on two different calipers.

 

[entropy]

Thanks, I'll try that.

 

[RainDodger]

It's also a matter of "feel", as one poster was getting at. Fine tools are a joy to work with. I have Starrett micrometers and various other tools. I have my father's 1940s vintage Vernier calipers (never, ever use them anymore) and a middle-of-the-road (can't remember brand) dial caliper as well as a comparable digital. I rarely use the digital; almost always use the dial caliper. For about a $40 caliper, it works just great for hand loading. I don't think you need to spend any more money than that for hand loading.

 

[Schwing]

This topic seems to come up a lot. A couple of years back, I actually went to HF and bought the cheapest set of digital calipers that they had. They were $7. I compared them to my $300 Starretts that I used back when I was doing CNC stuff. I measured a couple of dozen gauge pins with both pairs and was pretty surprised that both pairs were identical down to one tenth of one thousandth.

I think what gets most people is just not being familiar enough with calipers to use them properly. You sure can get some pretty massive variations in length if you don't measure properly. As has also been stated multiple times. If you are worried about tolerances less than 1 or 2 thousandths, you really should be using a micrometer. For measuring things like OAL, the cheapos are just fine IMO.

 

[RussellC]

I finally bought a good quality caliper: http://www.msi-viking.com/Mitutoyo_500-196-30_6-Inch_Absolute_Digital_Caliper
On sale for $90. I've had a cheap Home Depot digital caliper. It eats batteries. Every time I go to use it the display is blinking indicating a low battery. Everyone says the cheaper Chinese made calipers that you have to remove the battery after using them and that the display turns off but the caliper keeps using the battery. Anyway, I love my new Mitutoyo caliper and highly recommend it. I bought from this company to prevent the possibility of buying a fake Mitutoyo made in China. I understand the fake ones are being sold by some places on Amazon??? I would recommend Starrett for a dial caliper. I used calipers for nearly 40 years in industry and you get what you pay for. Not saying some other calipers won't satisfy your needs though.

I've had a number of Harbor Freight calipers and they have always worked, but I just ordered this one. I have never had a "good" one before, so I thought I would treat myself. (103.22 out the door and to my door).

Russellc

 

[Varminterror]

Three sets of mitutoyos, and have never felt like I over paid by even a penny.

Have a couple cheap sets, but I hate them - Lyman's and Hornady's only good down to +/-1 thou.

 

[Walkalong]

My old Harbor Freight digital calipers were nice, but the new ones are rough. Seem to work OK, by I don't like using them, so I upgraded. It does OK, but I should have just bought a better one. My Mitutoyo dial caliper is in the shed by the lathe.

If .001 matters, such as bullet diameters, use a micrometer.

 

[Galil5.56]

Just as I hate digital automotive gauges, same for calipers, aside from setting tare and doing +/- stuff, or quick change from std to metric. Something about watching the needle move, that just works for me. once you get good with them, you can start cutting pretty close to .0001, reading between thousandths. I have Chinese dial calipers, and micrometers that were/are dead nuts on, same for my Chinese made Dillon D-Terminator 1500 scale I got in 1995, that works perfectly to this day.

As a test, I warmed it up, and compared it head-to-head over a huge range of weights, against a then well calibrated, multi thousand $$$ Sartorius lab balance. Lab reference check weights in grams, were dead on for 50/200/500 mg, and 10/20 grams. Attached are items weighed on both from 1995, and the results. My Aunt and Uncle both of whom are PhD chemists, were shocked at the accuracy and repeatability of this $150 electronic scale. Chinese can make good stuff too.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

I have 2 pair of inexpensive calipers, I keep a backup. The ones I have have been good enough and always seem to match each other even though they are different brands. I think one was $19.95 and the other was $21.95, both made in China.

 

[jmorris]

You don't test accuracy by just using a single point on the scale. During my accuracy test on the cheap HF calipers I found it read correctly if your at the inch mark and x.1 . Where they get way off is in the middle ranges x.x30-x.x70" range. They can be as far as 0.003" off in that range. For reloading this is close enough but for precision invest in a good set from Brown&Sharpe, Starrett or Mitutoyo.

I thought that's pretty much what I said. Any device can be wrong that's why standards exist.

You can have $10,000 in micrometers but you still want the standards to check them.

Standards and a set of gauge blocks will let you test many instruments. At almost any length.

 

[hdwhit]

sbwaters wrote:
Why do RCBS digital calipers cost $70 while Hornady and Lyman cost $30-40?

At the risk of sounding cynical: "Drop them and then call each respective seller's customer service line and see what kind of reception you get." RCBS has stood behind products even after I clearly admitted it was my own negligence that caused the problem. They replaced the damaged product and gave me instruction on how to make sure I didn't make the same mistake twice.

Hornady and Lyman, not so much.

In fact, I've now been waiting four months for a Lyman part that I asked to purchase from them. Instead, they said they would send me as a free replacement. It still hasn't arrived.

 

[ColtPythonElite]

So, basically you pay twice the price for RCBS so they can afford to hand out freebies to people who don't take care of their stuff...

 

[Mizar]

..."Drop them and then call each respective seller's customer service line and see what kind of reception you get."...

Well, as a general rule one must avoid in any way dropping a precision measuring instrument such as caliper. If I drop my caliper and damage it I don't expect Mitutoyo to send me a new one, because it's entirely my fault so it's ME who must deal with it.

A couple of words about vernier calipers, because I see here some "hate" towards them - yes, digital calipers are easy and quick to use, dial calipers too. Both are more precise than the stated range - bull...t. Everything beyond the stated precision range is just a questionable bonus. That's it. You cannot rely on it - this is a false reading. If the said digital (dial) caliper can accurately and repeatedly measure above 0.001" for instance the manufacturer will say so, plain and simple. Verniers are more slow to read, ask for more concentration from you, one needs a good lightning... Yes, that's true, but to a point - if speed is all you care about, then get yourself a digital caliper and measure happily. If you are a machinist and need to take a thousand dimensions every day, than it's no-brainer what you will choose. But I suspect that some of the hate comes from people that simply do not know how to properly read a vernier scale. Vernier calipers are a budget alternative, capable of the exact same precision needed. They are more sturdy and simple. They can't loose zero so easily. All I'm saying is just because it says "vernier" does not mean that it's an outdated monstrosity who will rip your eyes, or slow you down for days and you will be incapable of doing even the easiest job required.

 

[RussellC]

I got the Mitutoyo caliper, and it is a nice unit. Feel is very nice, very smooth and high quality. My Harbor freight at one tenth the cost measures the same.

Russellc

 

[Mr_Flintstone]

Gee! I feel outclassed. I've been using a $12 General dial caliper from Lowes. It works fine though.

 

[Leatherstocking]

I bought a cheap digital from NAPA, and found it inconsistent. Maybe as batteries faded?
I bought a Starrett dial calliper off eBay for $20. It arrived with the dial glass missing, and a tooth or 2 on the rack bent.
I sent it back to Starret, for $20 freight. They reconditioned it and paid the freight to return in... a great caliper for $40.
It is easy to read, easy to zero, no batteries ...no more digital for me!

 

[Walkalong]

I bought a cheap digital from NAPA, and found it inconsistent. Maybe as batteries faded?
I bought a Starrett dial calliper off eBay for $20. It arrived with the dial glass missing, and a tooth or 2 on the rack bent.
I sent it back to Starret, for $20 freight. They reconditioned it and paid the freight to return in... a great caliper for $40.
It is easy to read, easy to zero, no batteries ...no more digital for me!

You did well. My Mitutoyo dial caliper was bought in a pawn shop for $35. I picked up a B&S caliper/micrometer set the same way.

 

[cfullgraf]

I bought a Starrett dial calliper off eBay for $20. It arrived with the dial glass missing, and a tooth or 2 on the rack bent.
I sent it back to Starret, for $20 freight. They reconditioned it and paid the freight to return in... a great caliper for $40.

I have a Starrett dial caliper that I've owned since new, circa 1980 or so, that needs some TLC to bring it back up to snuff. Thanks for the idea to send it in for repairs.

 

[Dog Soldier]

When I retired I was allowed to keep much of my equipment. My Starrett tools were dependable for years. I bought an inexpensive mic and caliper from Harbor Freight. They are dead on with the Starretts.

 

[cfullgraf]

I'll agree, but for the price of shipping or a bit more, why not get the Starrett calipers repaired?

Budget priced calipers are so reasonable these days, I have them scattered about at my various tool locations around my shops, farm and other various tool locations. No need to be more than an arms length from a good measuring tool.

 

[Dog Soldier]

No shipping. There are 2 Harbor Freights in Salt Lake City. I am down there often.

 

[Walkalong]

The new harbor freight calipers are so rough I gave mine away. Measured OK, but I couldn't stand using use them. The older ones were nice.