Calling Flamey McFlamington: Rohm model 57?

Status
Not open for further replies.
H

heviarti

Member
Joined
Jan 30, 2007
Messages
283
There's a new pawn shop here in town with a Rohm for sale. Normally I'd turn my nose up at anything with that name on it, but this doesn't feel like the normal crappy die cast .22 POS.

this one is a model 57 in .357 mag, all the major components *look* milled, though all the angles are a li'l chunky. Through the frame and cylinder it bears a great deal of resemblance to one of the old Smith .38-44s. The barrel is easily as heavy as my ex-friend's Smith model ten heavy barrel.

Are these as crappy as the lesser models, or is there hope? Not knowing for sure what the material is, it does *look* hell for stout. If I buy I don't know that I'd run anything better than .38 special through it.

They want $150 for it (same as their Nagants). What I'm liking about it is the barrel rib and front sight assembly are retained on the fully circular barrel with allen screws. That means I could take a block of steel and bore it the same diameter as the barrel and cut it for the ejector rod and to seat over the rear sight and top strap. Don't think I'd dare mill the strap flat to the bottom of the sight gutter for strength reasons. If I could post without a big fight I'd draw a picture.

Inlet the face of the block for a laser, cut a cute little flare at the end of the block and flatten the area behind it below the site of the flare, and cut a dovetail down the length of it on both sides for a battery operated reflex sight or mount an old Nydar to it.

I'm normally pretty practical when it comes to my guns... but that would look really cool, and if it being a .357 would stand up to 38 special, it would make a fun gun. Or I could let the cylinder out a little and use it as my test gun for .38 S&W loads....

So, end question... are the model 57s also comprised primarily of dookie, or are they built to a reasonable level of not-fallaparteyness?
 
Maybe also called RG57? I've found other mention of it in .45LC and .41 Mag. as well as .357. .41 is some stiff stuff.

I'm sure someone is going to have some flame for this, I'm just curious if anyone has dealt with the 57 before. If it's in those chamberings it can't be a die cast piece of shidoody like the 10 or 14 can it? I mean... .41 in recycled Hotwheels... nobody'd do THAT would they?
 
I'm mostly sure that the RG-57 was made by Rohm GmbH, and not RG ind., FLA. Now that may not mean much to those who don't like such things, but they feel better to me. The German ones are also proofed: Now that is'nt in and of itself a guarantee of function, but it does mean that it had fired (2?) rounds at a proof load. IIRC proof loads are at least 10% hotter than standard loading. Now there's a lot of chatter about CIP loads being habitually hotter than SAAMI, and that nastalgia effect of how .357 was just generally made hotter then, and have calmed down as of recently. Good part is that you'll have no worry about .38 spl.
 
As always check it for proper timing and cylinder lock up. If it passes those two tests it will be safe to shoot mild .357 mag loads in. NO +Ps. RGs generally aren't as crappy as their reputation. Also make sure there are no cracks in the frame or any where else. Do the same checks and inspection that should be done with any used firearm.
 
Last edited:
If they proof a wheelgun, doesn't each station in the cylinder get proofed? or are you saying two proof loads per station? I may end up buying it. Seems like my deal on a Japanese type 26 fell through. I think the guy freaked a little when I told him I occasionally carry the pistols in my collection, and had used my C96 to ward off two tweakers that wanted my wallet. At that rate I'm glad I didn't mention literally jabbing it up the tall one's nose.... or explaining what the chicago stockyard tests were...or the bloody nose he left with when I yanked the Mauser back out of his nose... (that front sight goes in much easier than it comes out)

I was kind of looking forward to a 26. I guess that leaves cash for a Webley (.38 unfortunately), a Nagant, and that Rohm. And maybe something nice with the tax money. I'm thinking .38-44, because ammo for a Nambu type 14 is more of a pain.
 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Proof_test
Proof testing in C.I.P. regulated countries
In C.I.P. member states every civil firearm has to be professionally proofed in accredited Proof Houses before it can be sold to consumers.

The standard proof test consist of firing two overloaded cartridges that produce 25% more chamber pressure then the C.I.P. specified maximum pressure limit for the same cartridge in its commercial version. The standard proof of pistol, revolver and rimfire cartridges is performed with overloaded cartridges that produce 30% more chamber pressure than the C.I.P maximum pressure limit for the same cartridge in its commercial version. There are only two overloaded firings to avoid excessive stress to the arm, especially the barrel which is the main part suffering this overload beside the chamber (when not part of the barrel) and the locking mechanism. After the test, the arm is disassembled by the proof house technicians for nondestructive testing looking for Magnetic flux leakage through fluoroscopic lamp in a dark room.

Before the year 2006 the standard test consisted of firing two overloaded cartridges producing 30% more chamber pressure then the C.I.P. specified maximum chamber gas pressure limit for the same cartridge in its commercial version.

Not where I remember finding out about it, but sounds like what I read

NO +Ps.
Click to expand...
???
There is no such thing as .357+P and if it can take .357 it can eat .38 spl+P all day long.
 
Good, gives me an excuse to load some CWBH on top of 4756. With any luck it'll handle that.

Now on to making the block for it.
 
Put that $150 towards a real pistol like a Colt or Smith police surplus or even a used Charter Arms, Rossi, Taurus etc. If you can't find any of those in a reasonable time take the $50 bill and light it with a match and take the $100 to the liquor store and buy a bottle or two of the high shelf good stuff and gas your truck up with what's left. You will be happier in the end.
 
Put that $150 towards a real pistol
Click to expand...
I tell ya what: Try buying one without doing paperwork, or better yet, get caught mailing one to someone in prison. Oh, yeah... they ARE considered real pistols:rolleyes:
Material: Try getting some that's fresh!
 
TCOV said:
Put that $150 towards a real pistol like a Colt or Smith police surplus or even a used Charter Arms, Rossi, Taurus etc. If you can't find any of those in a reasonable time take the $50 bill and light it with a match and take the $100 to the liquor store and buy a bottle or two of the high shelf good stuff and gas your truck up with what's left. You will be happier in the end.
Click to expand...
How would the internet ever survive without dissenting uninformed opinions?
 
I just got ran out of a thread on a rail for bashing Kel Tecs, so I am not touchin this one.

Wow.
 
My opinion may be dissenting but it is not uninformed. I had one of these given me for free by a dealer friend who was afraid to sell it. After playing with it I'm not sure free is a good price. If you want a cheap gun at least buy one that was of some quality when it was new. I went through my cheap gun phase and was sorry every time. There is low priced decent guns but cheap crap is cheap crap. I do own keltecs as I find them to be a good value for what they are designed for. Some others don't agree.
 
Last edited:
TCOV said:
My opinion may be dissenting but it is not uninformed. I had one of these given me for free by a dealer friend who was afraid to sell it. After playing with it I'm not sure free is a good price. If you want a cheap gun at least buy one that was of some quality when it was new. I went through my cheap gun phase and was sorry every time. There is low priced decent guns but cheap crap is cheap crap. I do own keltecs as I find them to be a good value for what they are designed for. Some others don't agree.
Click to expand...
Was it one of the .22lr RG's?

What exactly was wrong with it?
 
My personal experience with RGs has been positive. Not top line but certainly serviceable and safe to shoot. I actually killed a medium sized bobcat with a model 10 in 22 short.
 
Hell, buy it if you want it. You don't need our approval. If that were true, no one would own anything, but 1911s and Smith and Wessons. :rolleyes: I mean, I wouldn't mess with it. Hell, 150 is a little steep for a boat anchor and I already have one, I'm just sayin'....:D

Seriously, though, I don't need such a thing. If you don't have a comparable gun, have a need for something to toss in the truck or something, get it. I have several nice .357 shooters. One of 'em, a 3" Taurua 66, only set me back 180 bucks used, just $30 over that Rohm, and man that thing is ACCURATE! easy to carry, too, with the 3" barrel. It's a strong, reliable gun. That's more my idea of a bargain .357, I guess. You'll find plenty of Taurus bashers on this board, too, though. McFlameys...I like that. :D Rohm, though, even I can bash that one. LOL! But, if it times okay, passes the revolver test, and if you want it, why not?
 
One of 'em, a 3" Taurua 66, only set me back 180 bucks used, just $30 over that Rohm, and man that thing is ACCURATE! easy to carry, too, with the 3" barrel. It's a strong, reliable gun.
Click to expand...
But Mcgunner, didn't you read the thread where the OP laments not listening to the Taurus haters? According to "them" that model 66 is no better than a boat anchor itself.
 
Well, bashed as Taurus is, I've got three I won't part with, strong, reliable, and very accurate. My 4" 66 is more accurate than either the Security Six or Smith 19 I had and more accurate than my M10 Smith I still have. The 3" ain't far behind. And, the triggers ain't bad, either. I mean, it works for me and that's really all that matters. If a Rohm fills a niche, why would I care about other's opinions? I do kinda think 150 is a bit much for a Rohm, though. I might go that much if there wasn't any paperwork.
 
They want $150 for it (same as their Nagants).
Click to expand...


Hey, I'll add this, soon have that Rohm as any Nagant, at least as a shooter. :rolleyes: I don't think ANY revolver could have a worse trigger than the Nagant, single action or double action. The Nagants are probably less likely to have timing or other such mechanical problems, though, but the ammo is...well....weird.
 
R Garbage its a RHOM GMBH SONTHE IM/BRZ MOD 66 22lr. When I got it it looked almost new with a little holster wear at the muzzel but no turn line on the cylinder. Problem was 1/2 lb trigger pull. I took it apart but couldn't see any damage or missing parts so reassembled it. I have been cycling the action to get a feel for it and now there is a turn line starting on the cyclinder that looks like a drunken goat tapdanced around it. Not strait and with a hard hit mark just before the notch going to the cylinder lock groove. I will end up cutting this in half and selling the grips on ebay. This is the only one of these I have handled as it was free and every one I have seen was obviously poorly made to the eye. $150 is too much for this gun but it is your choice to buy or not. You did ask for opinions on this.
 
Last edited:
I'm not looking for a high dollar piece. I have a 1911, a C96, a Pre-woodsman, an H&R .38 breaktop, an S&W safety hammerless, a Luger, and a Star Modelo Super. All reasonably nice pieces, but nothing I could hack on without feeling some guilt. The Star and the 1911 are the the only ones newer than 1921.

That model 57 has a perfectly round barrel. Never seen another revolver with a perfectly round barrel... Including a real bull barrel Smith. (it had a cutaway for the ejector rod) I want to mount a square block to it. One I feel it may be an aid to accuracy. Two I think it'd look cool, like the Mark II on the cover of the Jan/Feb '95 issue of American Handgunner. (anybody have it, and a scanner?) Three, since it's a lesser piece I'd feel better about carrying it in some situations.... generally places I might have to possibly use it; a big heavy piece of metal could be a nice thing to already have in your hand if you're out of ammo. (or if you want to be quiet). Four, it would be adequate protection for a laser.

All kinds of milling on the Rohm would not be a loss. If I screw up? Meh. I have a functional cheap revolver that's got an ugly mill mark in it.

To the guy who says 'not good' was the Rohm you got from your friend the model 57? or was it the model 38, which is lesser? or was it a .22 of some sort? This is only about the model 57.

On a side note, I'm looking to buy a .38-44 Smith a friend has.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

Dudemeister
  • Locked
S&W Model 57
2
Replies
48
Views
3K
vmr357
vmr357
R
  • Locked
What's this gun is worth: Nickel model 57
2
Replies
26
Views
2K
billhilly66
B
C
  • Locked
38 smith & wesson to 38 special
Replies
9
Views
1K
VancMike
V
Zaydok Allen
  • Locked
S&W Model 64 question
Replies
14
Views
2K
Radagast
R
mesinge2
  • Locked
Smith & Model 19-4 and cracked forcing cone
Replies
20
Views
6K
roaddog28
R
Back
Top