Can a s&w m64 be Rechambered to 357 mag

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gunhappy

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and if so, how much work is involved? Can the cylinder be bored out for clearance of that last 1/10"? Do I require a new barrell/cylinder? If so, this is simply unfeasable. Thanks in advance.
 
So I can shoot 357...I bought it as a 38 when I needed a carry piece and the price was right. I can't afford a new 357, and I won't get rid of the 64, so I figured it was a nice compromise. Obviously a gunsmith would do all the work.
 
Back in the 70's it was quite common for police officers to have their M10 and M64 Heavy Barrel guns re-chambered for the .357. It's quick and easy to do, but I doubt you'll find a gunsmith to do it, these days.

My first issue gun was a HB M10 and when the assistant chief handed it to me he said, "Find yourself a gunsmith and have that thing rechambered to .357!" I still have it. 31 years later and it still works. As it is a K-Frame, I do limit the use of 125gr loads through it.

I also had a M64 "Pencil Barrel" rechambered. I wish I still had that one.

I had a first issue SP101 38 Special rechambered, too. No problems there, either.

Now, having said all that, don't do it! Especially if it is the "Pencil Barrel" version. The Model 64 is no longer made and will serve you just as well and last longer if you leave it as it is. If you want a 357, trade it for one or buy one.
 
It would probably be cheaper to just trade the model 64 for a model 65 than to pay a gunsmith to rechamber the 64. Switching to +P+ ammo will give you nearly the same results.
 
YES
But you forgot the next step in the logical chain

IS IT A GOOD IDEA?

NO

The 64 has not been heat treated like the 65 and it will cause problems if not catastrophic.
 
OK..I get it

Bad Idea. Thanks for looking out for me guys. Brianwilliams, I did not know that the 64 was not heat treated to the same degree as other weapons in the S&W line. I figured it was seeing as it is approved for +P ammo.
Thanks for the info and input guys!
 
Some people claim the Magnum cylinders are tempered differently than those on the .38 Special guns. I am not so sure. I do know that many S&W K frame .38s have been bored to .357 Magnum and as a member noted above they seem to work fine. I doubt that a gunsmith would do this today due to liability concerns. I would rather just buy the proper gun. Sell the .38 and upgrade for best results.

I wonder if the M65 cylinder is the same length? If so, these turn up on ebay for $30 or so once in a awhile and it might drop in and solve any tempering differences if there are any. But of course some claim the barrels are treated differently, too, but I don't think that's the case.
 
Dr Saxonpig, IIRC a 65 cylinder is longer than a 64 because the throat on my 64 barrel had to be shortened to fit in my 65. I do not think the barrels are treated differently, just the frames and cylinders. I had a talk with one of the gunsmiths at S&W and he would not say No Problem but he did say it should work when I talked to them about putting a pencil barrel from a 64 on a 65. But he did say do not take a 64 and ream it to 357 as it would have major and possibly catastrophic problems.

I did not know that the 64 was not heat treated to the same degree as other weapons in the S&W line. I figured it was seeing as it is approved for +P ammo.
The lower pressure guns are treated differently from the Magnum line.
These figures are not correct, but they give the idea
a 38 spec is about 14,000psi
a 38 +p is about 18,500psi
max is 21,500
and
a 357 is about 30,000 to 35,000 psi
so there is a big difference between a +p and a magnum.
 
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The +P is actually at 18,500. Max allowable for the .38 Special is 21,500 but no mainstream factory ammo is loaded to that level at this time.

I have never heard anyone say the frames were tempered differently until you just said it. All I ever heard was the cylinders were harder on the Magnums.
 
Excluding rimfire Magnums...

The steel alloy used in Magnum cylinders is different then that used in other cylinders, and while both are heat treated, the process is different on Magnum cylinders.

No, you do not rechamber .38 cylinders to .357 Magnum. If you want a Magnum, buy a Magnum.

The frames are the same within a certain series (say K-frames for example). When the frames are made they are serial numbered and put into inventory. They are then drawn out and made into different but similar revolvers. For example, a KT (K-frame with adjustable rear sight) frame might be made into a model 15 (.38 Special) or model 19 (.357 Magnum).
 
Why not just load some hot .38 ammo. That's how .357 Magnum was first done, i.e., just loading hot .38s. Eventually someone decided they should make a longer case only so those hot loaded (Magnum) .38s didn't get loaded into an aluminum revolver and blow it up. The .38 case has enough powder capacity to make for really hot loads in an all steel gun, though I don't recommend a steady diet of them for your revolver, as the forcing cone will not hold up to it for long, though I think the cylinder should be fine in any case, at close to magnum power levels. It can certainly hold up to the few that you might need to fire in self defense. For practice, after you've worked up your .38 Near Magnum loads, should be with standard pressure .38s.
 
Two old but wise observations...

"Practice with the ammunition you carry." ;)

"Carry ammunition that is appropriate for the gun." ;)

Getting into a serious situation carrying ammunition that is more powerful then what you’re used to, and maybe shoots to a different point of impact, is not an especially good idea. Neither is using ammunition that might overstress the gun. :(

If you want/need a .357 Magnum, buy a .357 Magnum.
 
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