Can I please have some S&W J frame help?

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I'm looking for a S&W J frame revolver to carry.

I am having difficulty wading through all of their options on their website. Also for some reason it is a slow website making the learning process much harder.

I have a number of questions that I hope some of you will be kind enough to answer. Here we go:

What are moon clips?

Hammer or no hammer and why?

And maybe the experts can help me differentiate between models like the 36, 642, M&P 340, M&P 360, Bodyguard, 360PD, 340PD, and 442. These all look very similar to me but I can't really find their differences.
 
Your first two questions are easy:

"What are moon clips?"
Moon clips are used to head space an auto-style case in a revolver, they take the place of the normal revolver rimmed cartridge. The traditional revolver cartridge head spaces on the rim.

"Hammer or no hammer and why?"
A hammerless handgun will be easier (some say) to carry concealed, and easier to draw without snagging on clothing. Truth is, all pistols have a hammer, however some models utilize a hammer that has no spur, or is completely enclosed in the action.

Regarding your third question, personal handling will be more enlightening than any internet page. Find a well stocked helpful gun shop owner - never met one yet that did not enjoy sharing their knowledge and experience.
 
I've had trouble with their website for the last month , so it might not just be you.

moon clips are small metal clips that match the cyllinder to hold rounds in the same form as a speedloader. However with the clips you do not have to release the ammo from the speedloader. The clips are made to work inside the gun. You place the clip with the rounds in the cyllinder and fire.

Personally (and I have both) I carry a model 642 (hammerless) it is basically the same gun as the 442 (blued not stainless like 642) but has an internal hammer that you can not physically manipulate aside from pulling the trigger to fire the gun. The draw to hammerless is that some people feel the hammer can snag on your clothes when drawing the gun.

The model 36 is the essential Jframe with hammer (or saturday night special as my grandfather called it ) The 642 and 442 have been explained above , model 360 and 340 I believe are made of scandium frames and have night sights (as well as a higher price and come in .357 magnum) The other models are .38 +p. The Bodyguard (if your referring to the frame and not the one with the laser sight ) has a concealer hammer but has a small thumb stud which can be used to cock the weapon and fire in single action. An example of this is the 638. The newer bodyguard I am not familiar with and all I can tell you is it appears to be hamerless with a laser sight .
 
It is really easy if you start from the basis offerings and then start adding the options.

You start with the 3 basic CF (9mm, .32, .38) models of J-frames:
M36 - exposed hammer
M40 - internal hammer
M49 - enclosed hammer, stub of hammer protrudes through a slot in the housing

The same models in an alloy frame are the:
M37
M42
M38

In stainless steel, they become the: you add a "6" to the beginning of the designation
M60/637
M642/642
M649/638

A "4" at the beginning of the M442 is a dark colored M642
A "3" before a model number denotes an Airweight model... Al/Sc/Ti construction

Barrel lengths range from 1 7/8" - 3"

The best selling model is the 642/442 in .38
 
Thank you very much gentlemen for the replies.

Can anyone explain the M&P 340/360 PD offerings? is the .357 capability the big difference? They appear more expensive. Do many opt for the 642 because they probably wouldn't shoot .357 out of the J anyways?

Is the whole hair-trigger-court-issue one of the reasons people like to use the style with the internal hammer or is it mostly just to prevent the snagging?

I really like the classic look of the M36 but if the hammer is a liability then seems pointless for self defense.
 
The M&P model has a stainles steel cylinder, while the PD model has a Ti cylinder...the Ti cylinder has load restrictions against shooting light bullets.

I choose the 642 for daily carry because the internal hammer keeps the action cleaner, the higher frame allows a higher hold and I considered the ability to shoot a J-frame in SA mode more of a handicap to accurate shooting. But then I shoot DA revolvers exclusively in DA anyway...at least out to about 50 yards.
 
Hi,

As a seasoned and avid handgun competitor and hunter, IMHO the little J frames are offered in .357 Magnum just to snare a lot of newer shooters who think they need the extra "UMPH" of the .357 Magnum over the .38 Special (which is ACTUALLY another caliber that shoots a .357" diameter bullet. Yep, the .38 Special is a marketing term from over 100 years ago to make a (then) new .36 caliber handgun "seem" more powerful. And . . . like with the .357 Magnum . . . folks think more power is better.

IN MANY CASES . . . IT IS NOT! Let me explain . . .

IF you get a .357 Magnum J frame you are going to shoot a few rounds through it and develop a quick distaste for the nasty .357 ammo. Worse, you may also develop a nasty "flinch" due to the bad kick . . . and become a terrible shot . . . as well as never desire to shoot and practice with the "wee-beastie."

If you hang around in the shooting sports long enough you'll discover that the experienced J-frame carriers are quite happy to stoke their J-frames with .38 Special ammunition.

WHY?

1. More fun to shoot
2. Easier to shoot
3. MUCH easier to make ACCURATE and FAST follow up shots. The .357 will try to twist and rip your J-frame out of your optimum grip and the nasty recoil with cause greater "muzzle flip" that results in slower times shooting it too.

Sure, you can down load your .357 J-frame with .38 Special ammo, which most folks eventually do . . . but IMHO you don't need to spend all that extra money on a marketing ploy that ain't much difference than the original .38 Special hype surrounding the introduction of a very effective new .36 caliber handgun! Yep, .38 MUST be better than .36 . . . and thus drive more sales . . . right?;)

I went with nice, used vintage J-frames from their pinned barrel "glory days." They are cheaper and will do the job extremely well . . . in .38 Special only. I shoot .357 in my much larger revolvers that tame the recoil to manageable levels due to longer barrels and greater weight.

Hope this helps! The graveyards are full of folks who were at the receiving in of the bullet launched from a .38 Special handgun. Its still THE best caliber to shoot from a J-frame!!!
 
Can anyone explain the M&P 340/360 PD offerings? is the .357 capability the big difference? They appear more expensive. Do many opt for the 642 because they probably wouldn't shoot .357 out of the J anyways?

Is the whole hair-trigger-court-issue one of the reasons people like to use the style with the internal hammer or is it mostly just to prevent the snagging?

I really like the classic look of the M36 but if the hammer is a liability then seems pointless for self defense.

S&Wfan has something of a point. However, I'd like to explain the other side.
It is possible to find .357 Magnum loads that are while not full power, considerably better then the .38 Special. I've found Fioochi 148 grain JHP's go 1131 fps out of my
360PD.
A similar recoil, and effectiveness load is the 158 grain lead HP .38 Special Plus P from Buffalobore, 1040 fps out of my gun. If you are going to shoot a gun a lot, the extra safety margin with the gun being designed for .357 makes a bit of sense. Or if you are going to consistently shoot Plus P loads.

At self-defense ranges, read 7 yards or less, the ammo I'm using makes this a center of mass shooting type gun, not a headshot gun. Also, the lighter guns have really HORRIBLE, heavy triggers. My 360PD started at 16 gritty pounds, and, the best my gunsmith could do was smooth it out to about 11 pounds. That trigger, the small frame, and the light frame, combined with heavy recoil makes this a REAL handful.
It is, however, as much as you can get out of a 12-15 oz gun, period, ballistics wise.

The 360PD and the 340, are the lightest pocket gun I can think of with a powerful punch. That comes at a price.
The .38, to me, is much more accurate, but, it takes enough of a performance hit
that if I was to carry .38, I'd probably use 125-130 grain FMJ or flat points, as fast as I can get them, which is around 950 fps1000 fps.

The question becomes do you want an absolute pocket gun you can carry all the time, and pick the .38 or .357 of your choice, or, do you want a true .357 magnum capable CCW gun, that requires a holster?

If that's the case, a 3" Model 60 would be my choice. Most of the time, there is a pretty big jump in velocity between 2 and 3" barrels in .357 Magnum, and even more with a 4".
The heavier guns are nearly double the weight of the 360/340 scandiums, and, that
pretty much cuts the recoil speed in half, meaning you can use ammunition in it that is unshootable in a scandium gun.

As for DA, I've pretty much gone over that these guns usually have VERY heavy DA triggers. Being able to pull a hammer back, and aim is going to make accurate shooting MUCH easier, but, the hammer gets in the way of many kinds of carry, so you need to decide how, and where you are going to carry your firearm.

Hair trigger is NOT an issue in a shooting. If the shooting was justified is the key to walking away from having to use your gun. In other words do 12 arm chair quarterbacks, sitting in one of the safest places on the planet, a jury box, in a court house, find your actions justified, while your life was threatened by a threat that scared you enough you shot it?
 
One of the OP's questions is regarding the hammer. Some would say it's a liability, as it might snag on clothing when drawn. I personally have never had that issue, and I have carried a S&W J frame with a hammer for over 25 years without issue....others might disagree.

All I can say is that I personally like having the option to cock the revolver and have the lighter single action trigger pull for a longer distance shot. Each to them's own. ymmv
 
You'll have been good.

I've pretty much decided on the 442 for my first pistol. If the 642 is a better deal at my LGS, maybe I'll go that route. But one of the two.

However, It won't be soon because Erie county has been backlogged for pistol permits. It has been 7 months since I have applied and still no word back.

What it would be like to live in a free state.

Thank you gentlemen. I will be lurking the 642 club.
 
Is your main reason for getting a J-frame for carry?

Does Erie county issue 'restricted' or 'unrestricted' pistol permits? The whole pistol permit process in NY is messed up. Legally you can't even touch a pistol if you don't hold a NY permit... and then every one of your handguns needs to be registered on the permit.
 
Based on my Thunder Ranch training, most handgun encounters are at spitting distance. That means double action.

For me it is a tie between the M638 Body Guard or the M642 Centennial . The hammerless M642 gets the most carry use just because it is so foolproof and nothing gets in the lockworks.

The M637 Chief’s Special with its exposed hammer snags. And you don’t want that in a pocket pistol, you don’t want it hanging up on clothes just when you need it out.

The last I fired a 357 snubbie was over 25 years ago. It was a K frame Smith. Huge muzzle blast and it hurt.

ReducedCheifSpecialCentennialBod-1.jpg
 
ShoppingARound: I have a 642, and love it. Note that it's pretty much the same as the 442. I was lucky and found one without a lock too (look for a little hole next to the top of the grip, to see if it has one). While it seems the S&W internal locks have caused very few problems, they are vastly unpopular because it's just one more thing that can go wrong.

Be sure to go to a store and handle a few J-frames before making a final decision, as others have mentioned.

The 642 and 442, for example, are EXTREMELY lightweight. If you're carrying, this is probably a really good thing. But if it's a gun for the range and/or the nightstand, this may not be desirable. A lighter revolver is a little more difficult to handle, in my opinion. It's not extremely noticable though, and as I said if you're carrying it's a VERY good tradeoff.
 
mstrat said:
The 642 and 442, for example, are EXTREMELY lightweight.

I think I might reserve that adjective for the "3" series, I've found the 642 a good compromise weight for the little J-rames.

To the OP - Since you have time anyway, I would suggest you take a look at the Ruger LCR. By the time you get your permit, any problems would have surfaced. While I've been carrying my 642 for 15+ years, if I had it to do again, I'd look very seriously at the LCR for it's superior trigger action
 
Is your main reason for getting a J-frame for carry?

Does Erie county issue 'restricted' or 'unrestricted' pistol permits? The whole pistol permit process in NY is messed up. Legally you can't even touch a pistol if you don't hold a NY permit... and then every one of your handguns needs to be registered on the permit.
I'm pretty sure Erie County issues both restricted and unrestricted.

I heard the rule of thumb here is to wait another year if you are issued a restricted permit and then call up the judge and show an incident free year and then possibly you will be issued unrestricted.
 
M&p 340

Here is a thread I started a couple years ago regarding the then new M&P 340

I often hear the comment why pay a few hundred more for the M&P lineup hammer or hammerless....the question the gentleman below asked is as follows:

So, I put the Model 442 on layaway and should have it in a couple of months. I may revisit the 340 down the line, but for now the 442 in .38 is perfect for me.

There are a couple of major differences between the X42 and 340. I have both a 642 and 340, both with CT 405s. I started with the 642 based on all the praises from the 642 Thread. The J Frame format is wonderful for pocket carry (most of the time). The problem I had with the 642 was the 16 ounces in the pocket. I hate to split hairs but 13.3 ounces and 16 (plus 5 rounds) is considerable, but that is just me....or is it?

Next, the sights. There are two aspects of the trench/gutter and XS Dot setup on the 340 vs the blade on the X42.

A) Night sight capability with the Tritium vials.
B) Superior sight picture and target acquisition with the trench and dot versus the blade. How many times have you seen on the 642 thread the topic of conversation regarding painting the blade, what color and so on to increase daytime visibility. Also how is the blade to be positioned for proper shot placement? With the Dot there is absolutely no doubt.

.357 capability. I'll bet that over half if not more 340 carriers load with .38spl Plus P. Is that a waste of money to get the capability? Maybe, but as I have stated numerous times I would rather be able to shoot 3 varients than two, ie 38spl, Plus P and .357 in times of trouble.

I am glad to see the 340 w/o the lock.

P1270034-3.jpg
M&P 340 and 642-2 the 340 weighs 13.3 ounces and the 642 about 16 ounces. A big difference if you are going to pocket carry.

Many models are available without the lock now. You can get a $50 rebate on most snubs now through S&W. You can get a 642 from CDNN online for $368.

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=282173
The 340 website

The PD line is the lightest IIRC. at about 11 ounces. The lighter the roscoe the greater the felt recoil. Felt recoil is both real and apparent.

Light pipes or fiber optic sights are great for low light conditions but will not work in no light conditions. They are superior for sight acquisition positioning than the blade IMO.
 
I have a Model 60 and a Model 637. The hammer has never been an issue for me but it's also a personal preference. Both of my Smith J-frames have very nice triggers.

The 637 is rated for +P but it's not much fun. I have this personal rule that says I practice with what I carry so I carry .38 Specials. The Model 60, which has a three-inch barrel, is much better at handling the heavier stuff.
 
I'm right in step with TexasBill. I have a m638 that does 38 specials and leave the 38+p and 357 to my 3in m60. Both guns are ccw but the m638 is great for pocket ccw. When I ccw the m 60 it goes to the belt.
 
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