Can the 1911 experts PLEASE explain this?

[ontarget]

Also here is C&S checks page: https://www.cylinder-slide.com/1911safetyck.shtml

Good resource. Thanks. I followed all of the safety check list and everything passed.
I will also check out my other 1911s.

 

[Old_Grouch]

The FP safety came about to eliminate the hammer striking the FP without the trigger being pulled.

The firing pin safety doesn't prevent the hammer from striking the firing pin. It prevents the firing pin from moving forward far enough to strike the primer.

 

[trackskippy]

Thanks, thats what I meant.

 

[Bazoo]

I ain't no expert. But I like my 1911s. I'm going on memory here too.

I'd guess the flat spring needs replacing. Legs of the spring operate both the sear, and grip safety. The third operates the triggers return. If the spring was not teme red right n all three legs. With the thumb safety off, a little jostling might cause this with a faulty flat spring.

The firing pin block saved your hide. I'd say it got disengaged and re-engaged immediately after the hammer set the firing pin to moving. Or the firing pin is a touch long and could make minor contact upon being struck.

Accidentally having the thumb safety go off is something that happens occasionally. The thumb safety physically blocks the sear when engaged.

 

[Rule3]

I can kinda see how a thumb safety can go to fire, but to have all three happen at the same time in a holster is beyond me with out seeing the whole rig in person.

 

[Lo-Profile]

Glad that your okay and the gun didn't discharge. Depending on the holster the TS can get moved to the of position. Have had it happen a few times with a cheap leather holster. Still this never should have happened with a properly set up 1911. It needs to go to a reputable gunsmith or back to Colt for inspection and repair of the worn / failed parts

 

[Atavar]

I agree. There’s something we’re not hearing.
Is a light impact slam fire type malfunction from a broken firing pin or similar when the slide was released more likely?

 

[Old_Grouch]

to have all three happen at the same time in a holster is beyond me with out seeing the whole rig in person.

The grip safety would not play a role here if the trigger wasn't pulled as it does not prevent sear disengagement. It only blocks trigger movement and I doubt the trigger being pulled was the cause as the firing pin safety apparently did its job.

I'd guess the flat spring needs replacing. Legs of the spring operate both the sear, and grip safety. The third operates the triggers return. If the spring was not teme red right n all three legs. With the thumb safety off, a little jostling might cause this with a faulty flat spring.

I think you're probably right about the flat spring being the culprit.

 

[CapnMac]

I think you're probably right about the flat spring being the culprit.

Makes sense to me, especially, as one of the legs is what keeps the sear engaged.

Now, the signs of a "monkeied with" triple spring are a "floppity" grip safety, and a trigger that resets slowly or erratically.
That's "normally" as there are the three different legs. But, it could also be the fit of the spring down in the frame, too.

This could be as simple as some previous owner taking the arm down to all its "bits" rather than simply field stripping it. (I have seen the flat spring installed backwards a time or two--the result, after reassembly is forced, is a mess.)

 

[243winxb]

The Series 80 has a firing pin block. Trigger needs held to the rear to fire.

The Colt levers have the number 1, 2 or 3 stamped on them. The bigger the number, the greater the lift of the plunger.

 

[ontarget]

I agree. There’s something we’re not hearing.
Is a light impact slam fire type malfunction from a broken firing pin or similar when the slide was released more likely?

Nope.

 

[243winxb]

All I can think is that my coat slowed the hammer enough to cause the light strike and save my leg and possibly my life.

I would agree with this.

 

[tarosean]

Makes sense to me, especially, as one of the legs is what keeps the sear engaged.

Yet it still bypassed the shelf?

 

[tarosean]

OP: check your magazine well, with no magazine inserted, to see if your sear spring is protruding into it.

 

[243winxb]

A holster that blocks the hammer may be safer?

If you must carry a 1911 type.

 

[jmorris]

…unless the trigger was actually pulled.

If the hammer dropped without that interaction, then something is wrong with the gun.

That pretty much sums it up.

 

[FL-NC]

Not sure what happened in your case, but I got a good deal years ago on a SA milspec with nicely installed dovetail sights and a "great" trigger. I never bothered to go inside of the frame and check it out because it worked fine and I was happy with it. After shooting it at the range (not the first trip it had taken with me to the range BTW) I did a basic operator level disassembly and cleaning. After assembling it, I reloaded it and it slam-fired a round into the floor of my garage. After the initial shock, I cleared it and took it to a local friend in the Ft Bragg area who is a VERY capable 1911 smith. We dropped the slide numerous times, and several times the hammer followed all the way down (past the half cock) then we very meticulously did a detailed disassembly, and determined that the former owner (obviously a youtube trained gunsmith or some such) "modified" internal parts with what must have been a high speed dremmel (jeweler loops and magnifying glasses are great tools). Engagement surfaces were uneven and de-tempered, essentially reduced to pot metal. The pistol never "doubled" on me during a live fire- it picked that moment in my garage when I reloaded to catastrophically fail, and put a hole in my floor and take away a little bit more of the hearing I still have. It re-enforced the need to have situational awareness at all times with firearms, especially muzzle awareness. I don't consider it "my fault", it was a mechanical failure that happened in a "controlled" manner with no injuries or significant property damage due to using proper muzzle awareness. An order to Brownells and proper installation of all suspect parts corrected the problem, and that pistol is safe and in proper working order to this day. In fact, I fired it yesterday.

 

[JR24]

Yikes, either you had a perfect storm or there’s a defect in your gun, especially if it’s used and bubba did some “trigger work” on it.

I am in the camp that soft leather is not a good solution for holsters, as well.

Holsters with a sweat shield, generally help protect the TS on guns like a 1911, but they still arent perfect. They do work a lot better than those without them though.

I went from leather to kydex when I was carrying 1911's, but for a different reason. I do believe kydex is the better choice too.

I also like the holster types that secure the gun to the belt so the holster doesnt move. That too eliminates possible problems.

The only way to figure this sort of thing out is by trying though. Most of us have a couple of boxes of holsters because of it too.

Largely agree. Though even with sweat shields I occasionally had issues with the safety getting disengaged in the holster until I did two things:

1. switched to properly molded Kydex holsters with enough of a sweat shield to cover the safety (my preference is Vedder)
2. stopped using ambidextrous thumb safeties.

 

[CapnMac]

Yet it still bypassed the shelf?

Yeah, that still makes me go "huh?"
So, my only answer is that the spring is not in contact with the sear at all--only friction locks it up on OPs gun. That would explain the cascade failure. Soft holster hold the grip safety down; thumb safety come off, just needs a jar to trip the sear out of the way, then, it's all on the FP block.

But, as can be easily seen, that requires a lot of conjecture.

Color less than sanguine that a Series 80 FP block still dimpled the primer. I don not have anywhere near enough time to opine on Kimber's version of the FPB, but, I'm pretty sure it's meant to not allow FP protrusion, too. But, that's guess on my part.

 

[entropy]

I recommend one of two choices;
1.) Have Colt look at it.
2.) Have a compentent 1911 smith look at it.

Your almost-AD (no negligence on your part that I gather) required several things to happen that theoretically shouldn't have.

Firing pin indent indicates all other safety features had been overridden, failure of the block, or a broken firing pin.

If the first, buy a lottery ticket, because your outer garment saved you the AD. Time to have someone who knows 1911's look at the 'guts' of yours.

If the second, time for replacement or removal of the Series 80 block. (I put a TS Custom shim in when I overhauled my Taurus PT1911) I'm guessing you don't want to remove yours; I understand that. The reason I put the shim in is my Series 80-type upper link of the FP block broke off, jamming the gun up. (Fortunately, at the range.)

If the third, and that alone (which is doubtful, the hammer had to hit the firing pin in the first place) that would be an easy fix. I still recommend one of the two options above.

 

[Skylerbone]

I don’t know if/when Colt would be accepting warranty work at present.

 

[243winxb]

My Colt has an inertia firing pin. .

Colt

You mean CZ .

 

[Skylerbone]

My Colt has an inertia firing pin. .

You mean CZ .

Exactly.

 

[ontarget]

Ok, whether it goes to Colt or my local gun smith, should I clean it first or leave it as is in case the problem could be identified as dirt or fouling somewhere it shouldn't have been.
I've only put 100 rounds through it but I don't know when it was thoroughly cleaned by the previous owner. It's not filthy but who knows what could be down in the action.

 

[Old_Grouch]

I would leave it as-is.