Can you use syn 2 cycle oil in place of Mobil 1

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Hardly matters.

It will contain all sorts of compounds after it has been in a running engine for a VERY short time.
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Actually, it matters a good bit. Most new oils contain carcinogens right from the bottle, and this includes gun oils.
 
Hmmm, hard to figure that out as most synthetics are petroleum based. Silicon is good, but doesn't stick around very long at all.
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Most synthetic motor oil is blended. Which by nature has crude oil derivatives in it. FULLY synthetic motor oil is 100% chemically constructed with a small amount of carrier oil additive that is derived from crude oil which is a low percentage of the total.

It is true that sythetics can be made from crude oil components but the different method of refining makes it a totally different chemical.

Nonetheless synthetics can be made thinner and will evaporate less than convential oils (refined from crude oil) So this seems to favor their use in guns.
 
Do you live at the range?
Is your house right at the 200 yard range so you can just open a window at any time and fire-away?
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Yeah, why? I can look out the window of my office, where I'm sitting right now and see my 236yd target.
 
If you are going to go to the trouble of putting a lube on something why not put something on that protects and lubes all in one shot?? That way if your shooting experience is interrupted and the gun is not used for a while it is still protected from corrosion and ready to perform for you? Just asking about mind set and decisions made for future reference?
 
Most synthetic motor oil is blended. Which by nature has crude oil derivatives in it. FULLY synthetic motor oil is 100% chemically constructed with a small amount of carrier oil additive that is derived from crude oil which is a low percentage of the total.

It is true that sythetics can be made from crude oil components but the different method of refining makes it a totally different chemical.

Nonetheless synthetics can be made thinner and will evaporate less than convential oils (refined from crude oil) So this seems to favor their use in guns
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And the only fully synthetic oils (by your definition) are group 5 PAO's. Anything else is some alteration of mineral oils. I agree, it has the molecules rearranged, but it is what it is. And as a nearly universal rule will be better lubricants because of it, regardless of the application. In the case of use on a gun, it doesn't matter much one way or the other because the application is so non demanding to begin with.
 
And even the "synthetics" have to get their carbon chains from somewhere and it isn't mutton tallow. They are still petrochemicals although massaged more than just distillation and cracking.
 
Jim is, of course, right. Synthetic is a misnomer.

There is a reason that a lot of money has been spent on automotive oils. Several, actually. Among them: operating conditions that have absolutely nothing in common with firearms, and vehicle owners who believe that oil should be changed every 125k miles or after the vehicle is traded in, whichever comes first.
 
Many years ago a gunsmith busted my chops for saying I cleaned my revolver with WD-40. His claim was when left sitting too long with a little much WD40 residue, it drys and can stick parts together. He has had cases stuck in cylinders etc. I might use it on a special occasion but remove it later. Your mileage may vary...
 
I don't see why not. Somthing like a M-1 that prefers a grease no but most other guns it should not be a issue. If its not cold weather bacon grease or tiger balm should even work.
 
I don't see why not. Somthing like a M-1 that prefers a grease no but most other guns it should not be a issue. If its not cold weather bacon grease or tiger balm should even work.
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As a rule of thumb, a sliding contact surface (auto pistol slides, Garand/M1A Op rods) should be greased. Oil won't stay there, so over time you end up with insufficient lube. If it spits grease at you when you shoot it, then you should be using either a different grease, or less of it.

Pivoting surfaces (like revolver hammer and trigger pivots) are OK with oil.
 
i use hoppes no 9 elite seems to last and protect for a while wd40 is a penatrating oil and can harm the finish of your firearm. three in one works fine so does rem oil for polymer slides and actions.i never have used heavy grease in any firearm. But in a pinch what you got is better than what you wished you had.
 
WD 40 is recommended for traditional blackpowder rifles and only if you use the hot soapy water method to clean them. The WD40 will displace moisture so putting some down your barrel after running a bunch of water through it is not such a bad idea.

Other than that I would not use it.
 
natman said:
The whole point of using motor oil for your guns is to use leftover dribs from changing your car oil. I can't see buying ANY motor oil just to use it on guns. I bought a can of Triflow spray at the hardware store for about $6. I got an excellent gun oil in an easy to apply container. Ten years and a LOT of gun lubes later I had to buy another can. I don't really see the point of trying to "save" much compared to that.
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I've seen Triflow at a local HW store and thought about using it,but in recent years they are learning that Teflon is not as safe as was once thought . Anyone able to go into detail about it's use?
 
never heard of two cycle engine oil being used as gun oil??? though you may be referring to the synthentic 2 cycle oil on the market.

i use motorcraft/pennsoil/tech2000 synthentic motor oils for all my guns and have been very pleased with the slickness.
also i use honda molybdenum 60 grease.

i work a dry action with the grease then use motor oil after being burnished by the grease very effective.

also plain cheap toothpaste used to smooth out a lever or bolt gun works great and the synthentic oil really does the trick afterward.

preference for gun oils or car oils for that matter is personal just like everyone has their favorite beer or smoke.;)

gizmodog
 
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