Cane materials

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Puncha

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Canemasters offers various woods for use in their canes.

My question is.....

Is there any difference to identically sized canes if one is made of plain hickory versus it's "twin" made of pure hickory heart? Is the second cane stronger/heavier? If so, by how much stronger?
 
In days when I was using the baton, it was said that 2nd growth hickory was preferred... Cane masters has a lot of information;) Here is some info about handles for tools...

http://www.fs.fed.us/eng/pubs/pdfpubs/pdf99232823/pdf99232823Pdpi72pt04.pdf

The best handles are from second growth
hickory sapwood, all white in color (Figure 35).
In lower grades, various amounts of red-colored
heartwood are in the handle.

As mentioned sapwood is stronger than heart...

Regards
 
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Thanks, Harley.

I was going to say, regular hickory should be plenty strong, but it looks like Harley found a definitive answer...

J
 
Any body use blackthorn? I had one years ago that I lost during a PCS/transfer to a new base. ""


I've been using blackthorn since about 1970. It's getting hard to find decent blackthorn since it's actually getting scarce in Ireland.

For the past several years, I've been using American Hornbeam or ironwood as it's sometimes called. Easy to spot along creek bottoms and low damp places. You can recognize it by the ridges in the wood that look like mussel under the bark. In fact, the other name for it is mussel wood.

Find a small sapling and dig around the base till you can see the root. If it looks like a good root knob handle, cut it free with a cheap hatchet. Use a cheap hatchet, because it's going to get nicked all to h--l chopping in the ground. You can find all kinds of shapes in the root, and they make very nice handles that look like a brier pipe, with swirling grain. I polish up the root handle, but leave the bark on. Just polish the smooth gray bark with 0000 steel wool, and stain with your color of choice.

Hornbeam is very very tough, stands up to impact very well, and is light weight once it's cured down a basement for several months.

I think a rustic looking walking stick is a better deal than the old fogy looking crook tops that look like you may be infirm. The rough knobby or spiky blackthorn or hornbeam may send a little different vibe.

Crab apple and hazel are also light and tough woods.

Carl.
 
I have a canemasters practice cane and a hickory heart cane. I never weighed em but they feel about the same. I can not imagine anyone surviving you breaking either over their noggin!

The nice thing about their canes is that they are fairly plain looking and not too gaudy. I never wanted to draw attention to myself.
 
I've used ash, oak, walnut, maple, and several mystery woods to make sticks. Second growth is always preferred. I've been making a few lately out of 1"wide x 1/2"thick oak survey lathe. The grain is usually pretty straight and I'll laminate two pieces to get a 1" x 1" square cross section that can then be worked down to round, oval, or left square. With this make-up they are hell for strong and can take and issue a beating like nothing I've used before. The square ones usually get measure marks added so you can have a handy yard stick with you at all times. I made up one with lumber scales on it for a timber cruiser.
 
No canes but I've made walking sticks. I mostly use black locust. have some osage orange planks curing in the barn that I plan on working into laminates. it is a bit heavier but strong as heck and I figure I can make a thinner staff. I usually crown the top with deer antler and some hammered copper or brass fittings and a leather wrist strap. I'm 6'2" 240 pounds and I can't break a 1.25inch dry black locust shaft over my knee.
 
Straight grain hickory with the root ball shaped for a handle, my favorite weapon when in a restricted area where a knife or firearm is impossible to carry. I don't personally care for the Canemasters type, too weapon looking. Either hickory or oak with practice is very good for a weapon.
 
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