Scientific Cane Damage

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hso - True. I was thinking of a ippy (spelling) bow that I have that is laminated. It flexes quite a bit but will hold a 270 lb man leaning on it (and in center, other hand at end, bow at 45 degrees and supporting almost full weight).
 
BHP - if it's the same rattan that I have used in bos, it's not going to last more than a few heavy strikes. They make bos out of rattan to keep them light... The problem is when you borrow one of those bos to demonstrate how to put power into a hit they kinda splinter apart. I could be thinking of something different though.
 
Looks like rattan will hold up pretty well in shorter lengths.

Shockwave that is the same stuff I use to crack and splinter in full length bos (6-7 ft). There is a lot more force on the end of the bo when you are working with 4-5 ft in front of your hand than when there is 3 ft in front. The techniques are different as well. Two handed swings vs. 1 hand, pivot around a point on the bow, vs. full arm swings (you get a lot more speed on the tip, though either are very effective), etc. I'm surprised to see it hold up that well with a 3 ft stick. Then again, these guys weren't going full power, and they did break one (you see it start to go in the slow motion video). A few more hits and that is a useless handle instead of a stick.
You also have to remember that I was breaking maple bos almost at will back in those days (about 13 years ago, and about 60 lbs ago). I cracked a hickory one. I never got near the power of some guys who were breaking oak bos. I never did anything to my purple heart or ippy bo, but the ippy is laminated with the grain crossing. It took me a couple of months to really get power out of that because it was a bit more flexible than my purple heart bo.

glistam - Sweet Video.
 
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Years ago a cousin whacked me good with a jointed cane fishing pole.

The std 12 ft or so cane poles were awkward to carry so some enterprising souls made them smaller 4-5' length. Brass male/female connectors ,(ferule?),were added that'd allow quick creek/river side assembly.

Maybe it was the added weight of the brass tip, but that dang thing hurt. It was only a few whacks, but an egg sucking dog would've had a better time of it.

Never tease your freckle face, fair haired cousin. You will NEVER live it down.

In some Pacific Rim countrys, isn't 'caneing' legal?

salty
 
there is a lot more force on the end of the bo when you are working with 4-5 ft in front of your hand than when there is 3 ft in front.
Click to expand...

I train with bo and jo staffs, 3 times a week each. You're ferrying coal to Newcastle, brother.

Some of the techniques being described here require dan tien rotation, which is a full-body windup in the vertical (up and down) rotation, as opposed to the more traditional Okinawan side-to-side hip movement, so we're getting pretty far afield.

A more simple tip for cane users is to work on keeping the hands fairly planted on the stick and generating the movement of it through the body. That is, the arms don't swing at the target, the arms stay mostly stationary where they are, and the torquing, swinging motion of the body delivers the strike. "Hit with your hips" is the ticket.

When you do all this right, you'll find that very little muscle is needed. The beginner tends to try too hard, and the real trick is to let the cane or stick do the work. It's more about leverage than swinging speed.

It isn't a baseball bat. It's more devastating to do things like fit it under the armpit, hook the chin and neck and rip backward. The sucker will go down hard with very little effort.
 
A few things on canes and sticks in general. OK, credentials first. I am a "Lakan Unang/Untas in Kali Silat, a martial art from the Fillipines. At least in the first part of the syllabus it uses short (28") sticks, either singly or in pairs.

A few things about the sticks, for light sparring they are made from 1" rattan with the nodes spaced far apart. These are very light sticks and as I believe scythefwd mentioned, they don't last very long before splintering. Of course, they don't hurt near as much when you get hit either.:D If you get rattan from the base of the plant, the nodes are only a few inches apart and it is much denser. These will last just about forever and will break bones VERY easily. The other woods used are Kamagong / Macassar Ebony which is an extremely dense wood, and another wood that is the heart of a special palm tree. The Christians in the North use the palm wood and the Moslems in the South use the ebony.
Anyway, I've seen numerous people knocked unconscious with the very light sparring sticks. This occasionally happens when the man holding the stick simply flicks his wrist and accidentally connects. A 3 or 4 foot cane made from something hard and dense, like hickory or cocobolo, could very easily kill someone.

Regards

Testy1
 
Ill second the rattan with close nodes. I used to practice eskrima as well. The training sticks will splinter after repeated strikes stick to stick. The more dense one will shatter the training sticks in no time.

Other ones used are iron wood etc. A cane made of that will be heavy and may be hard to wield easily. But if you can manage will be effective in any of the ways the OP mentioned.

And like Testy said they will kill. In the P.I they have been know to have challenge fights of "honor" or to settle scores etc. Guys most certainly died or were seriously injured. I used to get hit with the training sticks in full eskrima armour by a UK/European/World champ and it still hurt like heck even through the armour!!!!!!!!
 
Re: Rattan

Back when I was doing a lot of martial arts, we were learning stick fighting as part of our routine. We all bought rattan fighting sticks (approx 3ft long.).

They held up to unbelievable abuse. We were hitting the sticks against one another in strike/block practices with full force many dozens of times per night, and I never saw a single one break.
 
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