Over the years I have amassed (?) a few hundred plated bullets. Most are OK for semi-autos, but I have some revolver diameter plated I don't use because they have no crimp groove or cannelure (no need to inform me about taper crimping or roll crimping on the side. BTDT not so hot!) I would like to try rolling a cannelure on some for roll/profile crimping. I would have other uses for a cannelure tool, but new tools are running $130.00+. Did a web search for home made or inexpensive tools, but came up empty. So, anybody have info or have made a home made cannelure tool?
Cannelure tool?
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Tried any? Cannelure tools adjustable for depth?
Soonerpesek
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The man gave you his answer......
Cough up the 130 bones - then let us know.....
GeoDudeFlorida
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A millgrain tool is only $70 give or take a sawbuck. Millgrain tools are used in jewelry making and are typically used in a jeweler’s lathe but handheld version are made. They work for any diameter and on metal as hard as platinum. For a copper plated bullet you would use a female tool (raised patterned vs a male tool which imprints an embedded pattern). A lot of jewelry making and sewing machine tools translate to handloading.
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LaneP
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I bought the Corbin HCT-1 sometime in the 80's and have used it for the odd times I needed to roll a cannelure on jacketed bullets, such as a batch of 230 JHP I wanted to load in .45 Colt cases, and some 405 gr .457" JSP for a Marlin 1895 to change seating depth.
I can't remember what I paid for it. I just looked at their website and they are charging $198 for that same tool
I can't remember what I paid for it. I just looked at their website and they are charging $198 for that same tool
Varminterror
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I use a Corbin cannelure machine also. But I also would not use it on plated bullets.
jmorris
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Mine is an old (1988) CH Tool and Die one, it’s a pretty basic design that can deliver consistent results.
If you alter the shape of an electroplated bullet you just reduce the adhesion of the plating to the lead. This does not improve upon the already mediocre accuracy they produce.
If you alter the shape of an electroplated bullet you just reduce the adhesion of the plating to the lead. This does not improve upon the already mediocre accuracy they produce.
twarr1
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+ Roll crimp for plated bullets.
Checked prices for CH and Corbin, both around $130.00. Only two manufacturers that come up in a google search. Rolling a cannelure on plated bullets was my first thought/idea as I have a lot of of them, but I also have some jacketed 45 ACP bullets that would probably work in my 45 Colt handloads. I have crimped into the side of some plated bullets, taper crimped some and most failed (poor accuracy, leading, etc.). I and a lifelong tinkerer/experimenter and often just do things 'cause I wanna, gotta see for myself...
So far the modified tubing cutter is the best idea (and the only one to fit the question)...
'Nuther question; Lots of "don't do it..." posts but who has tried rolling a cannelure on a plated bullet?
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Varminterror
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Plated bullets look great in price and packaging. And some indoor ranges with a “no exposed led policy” have bought off on plated bullets. So, some benefits.
Performance is a separate matter. Ringing steel or shooting watermelons? Check!
Regarding the “damaging” effects of roll crimp. Consider the fact that the plating is cut longitudinally from the rifling as it travels down the bore.
We could say roll crimping makes a poor bullet worser. I roll crimp em anyway and murmur “take that you cheap bullet”
Performance is a separate matter. Ringing steel or shooting watermelons? Check!
Regarding the “damaging” effects of roll crimp. Consider the fact that the plating is cut longitudinally from the rifling as it travels down the bore.
We could say roll crimping makes a poor bullet worser.
I roll crimp em anyway and murmur “take that you cheap bullet”
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GeoDudeFlorida
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I've used milgrain tools and knurling tools on jacketed, including thin jackets, but not on lead or plated. I just haven't had the call to try it. Typically with lead a roll crimp is fine and I only buy plated for semi-auto - NLG/NCG needed. I can run a few X-Treme 200gr RNFP through the lathe and impress a pattern using the milgrain tool once I'm done making more 9mm Mak cases out of 9mm Luger cases but the knurling tool I know is going to be a no-go. WAY too sharp. It's made for steel and aluminum, not lead. The milgrain tool is made for soft metals - gold, brass, bronze, copper, platinum and silver - so it *shouldn't* be too aggressive. But, it's a small lathe and so is my time window for working on it, and I have other projects lined up already, so this will have to wait.
I have the same CH tool as below from roughly the same decade. I've used it to run a cannelure in 30 cal. carbine bullets for use in .30 Luger reloads...worked well. More recently, I've run a cannelure in 180 gr FP 0.400" .40 S&W bullets for use in a 110 yr old Marlin 1889 .38-40.
It takes some experimentation to get the cannelure just where you want it height-wise, but after that, it's easy. Both of these applications are with jacketed bullets, and it was easy to keep the tension/depth of cut, via the control arm, consistent.
For use with lead alloy, plated, or powder coated bullets, controlling the depth of cut would be more problematic, I would think. In any event, it is a time consuming process, and would be time-prohibitive for high round count handgun ammunition. For my .38-40 Marlin, it makes sense. HTH's Rod
It takes some experimentation to get the cannelure just where you want it height-wise, but after that, it's easy. Both of these applications are with jacketed bullets, and it was easy to keep the tension/depth of cut, via the control arm, consistent.
For use with lead alloy, plated, or powder coated bullets, controlling the depth of cut would be more problematic, I would think. In any event, it is a time consuming process, and would be time-prohibitive for high round count handgun ammunition. For my .38-40 Marlin, it makes sense. HTH's Rod
Mine is an old (1988) CH Tool and Die one, it’s a pretty basic design that can deliver consistent results.
jmorris
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Guilty of that myself, so I understand. Just don’t ruin too many to test with.
I suggest a cardboard target just far enough away muzzle blast doesn’t mess it up but close enough to see if the bullet is coming apart.
3 feet is about right and it will look something like this.
That’s what it looks like when the plating has become compromised, up close.
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rdnktrkr
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How are the cannelure rings put on wadcutter revolver brass and would that work?
tightgroup tiger
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https://www.xtremebullets.com/38-s/48044.htm
It doesn't seem to hurt Xtreme bullets. They come that way from the factory. I've shot them for years, never noticed anything weird.
Don't know what their process is though.
It doesn't seem to hurt Xtreme bullets. They come that way from the factory. I've shot them for years, never noticed anything weird.
Don't know what their process is though.
Soonerpesek
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From the website (on the link you posted) :
The cores are plated. After plating we perform one more step than some of our competitors, we restrike all our plated bullets. The restrike process makes the bullets more uniform, the diameter more precise and the finish smoother
Our restriking step and extra plating make a Superior Plated Bullet (SPB). You and your customers will immediately notice the difference at the range.
This may be why they can put the cannelure in some of them.....(extra plating)...
Just taking that guess from the info on their website - I DO NOT know the process they use either...
Well, I'm not gonna spend $130.00 on an experiment for a few hundred bullets (I don't care for plated anyway). I May research the modification of a tubing cutter, thanksbcook43321, when I have nothing else to do. I haven't purchased any plated bullets for quite a while and I would only modify .357" or .451" but I've got several molds of each size and a lot of lead. I might just melt the plated bullets down
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